Scraper 499749 good for radius on wood?

[LDBecker]

Yet another dumb question - Working with hard maple on some kitchen cabinet doors and drawers - my wife wants a simple design, but just cutting the edges square seems iffy to me - and hard maple gives some sharp corners. I think this scraper is intended mostly for plastic edging, but has anyone used it to ease the corners on wood? Expensive... but solid carbide... 

I tried just using the sander to round over a bit, but I can't get a consistent edge that way.
https://www.festoolusa.com/accessory/499749---zk-hw-4545#Overview

Thanks! 

Larry

 

[RKA]

That may be tedious to handle on hard maple.  How about a small rounding plane?  Lee valley has a couple other options in their planes section.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=64284&cat=1,41182

 

[Nat X]

Absolutely not. If you don't want to use a roundover bit for some reason, there's things like this out there
http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/FastBreak-Sander-3p2472.htm

 

[Bohdan]

has anyone used it to ease the corners on wood?
Larry

Tried it on wood after I got the tool. Won't be using it on wood again as the results are very rough with lots of tearout that requires a lot of sanding to remove. Much quicker and nicer to use a router with a rounding cutter and then a swipe with sandpaper to finish it off.

 

[LDBecker]

Ok- you guys have convinced me- I think I'll just put a 1/16 round over bit in my OF1010. I had wondered about tearout - sounds like it would be a mess.

Larry

 

[waho6o9]

Ok- you guys have convinced me- I think I'll just put a 1/16 round over bit in my OF1010. I had wondered about tearout - sounds like it would be a mess.

Larry

Clamp a backer board to minimize tear out on the end grain. The backer board is the same thickness as the piece being routed, usually 3/4", use two if you like and clamp the piece being routed between them and your end grain won't have tear out.

 

[Bohdan]

Or do the end grain first and then when you go with the grain it will clean up any tearout which should be slight if any.

 

[LDBecker]

Agree-I usually do the end grain first, but every once in a while, you get nasty tearout that is difficult to clean up. A 1/16 roundover bit doesn't take much off, so I am not anticipating a problem.

Am I wrong to think I need to ease the edges on kitchen cabinets? It seems to me that a sharp edge would ding up a bit, and I'm not sure how well finish would adhere on a sharp corner.

 

[RKA]

You're correct on both counts, but I don't think you necessarily need a power tool to address this.  Even a hand sanding block with foam between the paper and block should give you a nice consistent edge with a few swipes.  It will still be sharp and clean, but not razor sharp.  If you want to remove a little more meat, then a router is helpful, so it depends on the look you're after. 

 

[Cheese]

Tried it on wood after I got the tool. Won't be using it on wood again as the results are very rough with lots of tearout that requires a lot of sanding to remove.

I agree...I tried it on maple edges and found the results to be inconsistent. Sometimes it worked well sometimes it decided to dig in and gouge the wood.

If I'm looking to just break the edge, I now use the Festool single sided foam sandpaper in 320/400 grit. Just a couple of light full length strokes removes the sharp edge without giving a rounded look.