Screw driver style handle for machine screw taps 4-40, 6-32, 8-32, 10-32 range

[Mark37]

Standard tap wrenches are great for initial tapping. But when I tap in aluminum and plexiglass I sometimes need to go back and chase out the threads.  I find standard tap wrenches really clunky for that application.

I would like to be able to put my taps in a screwdriver handle for that purpose. 

I guess I could put hex drive drilll/taps in a hex drive screwdriver handle, but my preference would be to use standard taps.

Anybody know of a screwdriver handle like that?

Thank you

 

[six-point socket II]

As comfortable as it can get:https://ruko.de/en/products/hand-taps/tap-wrench-with-ratchet-size-2-241002/

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[Packard]

I have an old Craftsman tap that is “stepped”.  That is there are 4 or 5 different sizes of threads.  Not so good for original tapping, but great for chasing threads.

I just googled it and I see that Klein Tools sell a very similar version.

While I find turning the handle clockwise is fairly easy. It tends to cramp my forearm when turning counter clockwise. So not a replacement for a T-handle for me.

Check the link.  It might be what you are looking for.

They are not showing 4-40 though.
https://www.powertownsend.com/shop/.../multi-tap-tool/6-n-1-tapping-tool?SKU=342726

 

[Mark37]

Thanks Oliver and Packard

I sometimes chuck the tap in a cordless drill but would prefer a hand tool.

Oliver,  the tap wrench you linked may be OK if I delete the T handle.  It looks to be much lighter weight than the tap wrench I own now.

Packard thanks for your comment about the ergonomics of the Klein tool.  I would definietely still use a tap wrench for the initial tapping.  With plexiglas, tappiing produces heat that distorts the material, and it is necessary to go back throug a second time and clean out the threads.  In that use  there should not be much resistance to turning. I will probably buy one and see how it works out for me.

 

[rst]

I have a pair of Irwin 3/8 socket drive tap holders.  I used mine to chuck into my impact. I haven't tried but could use my 3/8 drive Wera screwdriver for a more delicate use.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Klein would be my answer too. The only time I have seen any tradesman carrying/using one was an electrician. He used it to chase threads on metal electrical boxes, where someone had cross-threaded the hole.

 

[Packard]

Klein serves the electrical tradesmen, so that makes perfect sense.  I have found that their tools are well made, well thought out and competitively prices.  But most of the tools are geared to electricians.  I have one of their 6 way screw drivers.  Handy.

 

[guybo]

Hi, you may find tap sockets with a palm ratchet work for you can't put to much torque that way

 

[nclemmons]

https://www.amazon.com/Tapping-Cushion-Klein-Tools-626/dp/B000MKG08E

 

[Michael Kellough]

When drilling and tapping in non ferrous metals, plastics, and thin mild steel I prefer to use the hex shank combination drill/taps.

When concerned about keeping the hole pretty square to the work I put the drill/tap in a hex extension to get longer sight lines.

 

[Mark37]

I have a pair of Irwin 3/8 socket drive tap holders.  I used mine to chuck into my impact. I haven't tried but could use my 3/8 drive Wera screwdriver for a more delicate use.

Hi, you may find tap sockets with a palm ratchet work for you can't put to much torque that way

I did not know about this type of tap holder.  Thanks for adding to the thread.

 

[Mini Me]

Looking at the tap used maybe the answer. I am sure that spiral taps do not need to be backed out but I would have to go looking for the link. Have a look at the Penske tool videos on YT for information on different types of taps for both machine and hand threading as they are very informative.

 

[nclemmons]

I also have this Greenlee set which is very handy - hex drive for impact, drill, or sockets.  Includes the drill bit and tap on the same bit.
https://a.co/d/0I7v2tw

 

[tjbnwi]

Look into roll/thread forming taps. With the proper size drilled hole you should not have to “clean” the hole.

Roll taps require a larger tap hole than a cutting tap.

Tom

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Looking at the tap used maybe the answer. I am sure that spiral taps do not need to be backed out but I would have to go looking for the link. Have a look at the Penske tool videos on YT for information on different types of taps for both machine and hand threading as they are very informative.

That is true, but you need to be aware that spiral fluted taps and spiral pointed taps are very different.
Spiral fluted taps work much like a twist drill. They pull the chips out of the hole, usually stringy and twisted together.
Spiral pointed taps (sometimes called gun taps) push the chips forward, which makes them not-so-great for blind holes.
Both respond well to being continuously driven, by a power tool, not needing the reversing to "break the chips"

 

[Mini Me]

My apologies, it is a video by HAAS

 

[Cheese]

I have both spiral taps that I use in a drill for through-holes & hand taps that I use with a traditional tap handle for blind holes. In both cases, when tapping aluminum I open up the hole an additional .005"-.010" to prevent tap breakage.

Here are some tap sockets from Snap-On, Lisle Tools also makes a set of these. As guybo mentioned, these mounted on a palm ratchet or better yet, on a speeder handle, would make thread cleanup a breeze.

[attachimg=1]

 

[Packard]

Look into roll/thread forming taps. With the proper size drilled hole you should not have to “clean” the hole.

Roll taps require a larger tap hole than a cutting tap.

Tom

I am not familiar with roll taps, but the company I used to work for produced wire forms with rolled threads.

Rolled threads are much stronger than cut threads (on wire rod), and I expect the same is true about tapped holes.

Steel (and all metals from poured ingot) has a grain much like wood. If you cut through the grain, you weaken the thread.  When you are rolling threads, you are using the maleability of the metal to allow the threads to have continuous grain.

This illustration may make it clearer:

Forging after machining (and thread cutting) will re-establish the continuity of the grain, improving the overall strength. 

Another advantage of a rolled thread on wire is that it is not only stronger, but also much cheaper to produce.

Often the reason for choosing a cut thread is that the rod of a cut thread is the same diameter as the major diameter of the thread.

With a rolled thread the rod is smaller than the major diameter of the thread.  For example 1/4-20 thread is rolled from 0.235” diameter rod. 

Note:  I am working from memory.  I think the 0.235” diameter is correct.  I don’t have a roll thread root diameter chart to check against.

 

[dicktill]

Often the reason for choosing a cut thread is that the rod of a cut thread is the same diameter as the major diameter of the thread.

With a rolled thread the rod is smaller than the major diameter of the thread.  For example 1/4-20 thread is rolled from 0.235” diameter rod. 

Note:  I am working from memory.  I think the 0.235” diameter is correct.  I don’t have a roll thread root diameter chart to check against.

Look at "aircraft" (AN) bolts. They have rolled threads with (precision) full-sized shanks. They do that by forging(?) the shank with two different diameters. The smaller diameter portion gets the rolled threads.

 

[guybo]

would make thread cleanup a breeze.

However if you have a set of those pesky 10 points they will work also. good way to ruin your day [big grin]