Screw driver style handle for machine screw taps 4-40, 6-32, 8-32, 10-32 range

[Packard]

Often the reason for choosing a cut thread is that the rod of a cut thread is the same diameter as the major diameter of the thread.

With a rolled thread the rod is smaller than the major diameter of the thread.  For example 1/4-20 thread is rolled from 0.235” diameter rod. 

Note:  I am working from memory.  I think the 0.235” diameter is correct.  I don’t have a roll thread root diameter chart to check against.

Look at "aircraft" (AN) bolts. They have rolled threads with (precision) full-sized shanks. They do that by forging(?) the shank with two different diameters. The smaller diameter portion gets the rolled threads.

I did not know that about aircraft bolts. The shank diameter becomes important when you need a tight fit between the shank and a drilled or machined hole.  A typical rolled thread bolt would have a lot of slop in the hole.

I have no idea how they were produced.  Perhaps the blanks were forged prior to rolling the threads.  That would allow a smaller diameter where the threads were to be rolled, and a tightly controlled major diameter.  All the other options I can think of would be far more costly.

I had a (one) aircraft company we sold to.  They made parts for out-of-production aircraft.  And while they were reasonably careful about price, price was rarely the defining criteria for a purchase.  I think that is something unique to companies that produce items that had products that lives depended on.

Our company made a couple of million heavy duty welded D-rings each year—mostly for the truck tarpaulin industry.  But when a parachute maker asked for a quote, we politely declined to quote.

While we had best-in-the-industry quality welds, we probably had one or two bad welds per 100,000 D-rings.  OK for tarpaulins.  Not so OK for parachutes. 

 

[Mark37]

My apologies, it is a video by HAAS

Thanks for posting that video.  Many aha moments for me.

 

[HighlandMarine]

Standard tap wrenches are great for initial tapping. But when I tap in aluminum and plexiglass I sometimes need to go back and chase out the threads.  I find standard tap wrenches really clunky for that application.

I would like to be able to put my taps in a screwdriver handle for that purpose. 

I guess I could put hex drive drilll/taps in a hex drive screwdriver handle, but my preference would be to use standard taps.
Anybody know of a screwdriver handle like that?

Thank you

https://www.kctool.com/hazet-849ig-6-3-collet-chuck/

I use this, either with the Wera tool check bit ratchet, or a bit driver as it’s 1/4” hex driven

 

[Mark37]

Standard tap wrenches are great for initial tapping. But when I tap in aluminum and plexiglass I sometimes need to go back and chase out the threads.  I find standard tap wrenches really clunky for that application.

I would like to be able to put my taps in a screwdriver handle for that purpose. 

I guess I could put hex drive drilll/taps in a hex drive screwdriver handle, but my preference would be to use standard taps.
Anybody know of a screwdriver handle like that?

Thank you

https://www.kctool.com/hazet-849ig-6-3-collet-chuck/

I use this, either with the Wera tool check bit ratchet, or a bit driver as it’s 1/4” hex driven

Thanks for posting. That is going on my Christmas list!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[rst]

I use Irwin tap holders, they are 3/8 socket so I use 1/4 - 3/8 adapters and my 12v Milwaukee driver for tapping,

 

[pixelated]

For the smaller sizes the OP is working with, I’d think a pin vise would be what’s needed.https://www.esslinger.com/tap-and-die-1/

 

[Mark37]

Santa came through for me with the Hazlet chuck.  It works great for my uses as described above.  The fit is excellent, and it give a little mass that gives a nice rotational inertia when spinning the screwdriver shaft between my fingers to back the tap out of the newly threaded hole with the screwdriver handle

 

[rst]

I use an Irwin set that works for small and large taps, they work on 3/8” drive rachets or with an adapter, my impacts or drill.

 

[demographic]

Williams do a nice T handle ratchetting screwdriver with 1/4" hex socketted end for standard hex screwdriver bits.
As long as you're using quarter hex end taps I reckon it would be ideal for tapping reasonably small threads.
As its Williams there's also a Snap On version thats identical apart from the name and they're double the price, no doubt the fanbois will need that version for their assasins case style toolboxes.
Anyway, this is the Williams one.

 

[Packard]

Our production floor had automatic thread tapping that guaranteed that the threads were at 90 degrees to the work surface (important if you are tapping into sheet metal).

Our tool room also had an attachment to the drill press that did the same thing but slightly less efficiently and was larger an clumsier on the production floor.

But I could not find a device that allows 90 degree accuracy when hand tapping.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Williams has been making tools for about 150 years. Snap-On bought Williams about 30 years ago.

 

[rst]

Big Gator makes drill and tap guides hind hand work

 

[Michael Kellough]

A notch above Big Gator is this.

And a notch above that is this kind of hand tapper.

 

[rst]

That one is nice, when I’m tapping small enough parts I put an awl in my drill press chuck into the indentation in my racheting T-handle to keep the tap erect and centered

 

[Michael Kellough]

That one is nice, when I’m tapping small enough parts I put an awl in my drill press chuck into the indentation in my racheting T-handle to keep the tap erect and centered

Cool tip!

 

[Packard]

A notch above Big Gator is this.

And a notch above that is this kind of hand tapper.

At $129.99 for the first one, and $220.00 for the bench top one, a genuine bargain compared to what our tool and die makers were using (and which I pictured in an earlier post).  That one cost $1,295.00 (plus you need a drill press.