Screws in oak

[offcut]

Hi to all members, this is my first posting here.
Just need to know about using stainless steel screws in oak.
Do they react to the tannin in the timber like steel screws do or should I stick to brass?
My normal technique is to use standard steel screws of the same size, drive them in and then remove them, replacing them with the brass ones.
Regards
Clive

 

[Wuffles]

I recently watched someone build a green oak porch and they used stainless screws. As it's their job I'd hope they got it right, but you never know.

My understanding is that stainless and brass are fine though.

I also do the same as you with the pre-screwing for brass screws as they get a bit snappy when they're small don't they.

 

[mike_aa]

Hi offcut, and WELCOME to the forum! [big grin]

You might check some of the wooden boat forums.  I know they talk about different materials for fasteners and how the hold up.

Good luck,

Mike A.

 

[CrazyLarry]

Regularly use them on exposed external work most do seem to be quite soft/weak especially at the join between shank and head so I pre-drill as wuffles suggests and in the case of a very large oak garden gate I used a pilot the same size as the shank so only the thread presented any resistance at all.

Some come pre-lubed and I know the traditional technique was to pilot, screw in with steel, back out and drive in a lightly candlewaxed brass screw (not grease!) The same would probably work well as a belt and braces approach for stainless?

However I've not broken one since using pilot, stainless bits / drivers and avoiding impact driving for them. That might just be a case of taking greater care that way rather than the machine being the issue of course.

As for reacting stainless shouldn't be an issue, did get the occaisional rust staining before switching to stainless bits / drivers though.

 

[offcut]

Many thanks to all who have replied.
It sounds like stainless screws and fittings are OK to be used with oak
Clive