secret doorways

[Paul G]

I've got a project coming up that involves a secret doorway to a closset that will be a built in (flush to the wall) bookcase about 36" wide that needs to swing out (towards me). I've done the google searches and am finding a few hardware options, curious if anyone here has done anything like this and how you went about it (especially hardware and trim/concealment), if you would do things differently given the opportunity, any general feedback, etc. Pictures are also great if available. Thanks much!

 

[mig2993]

http://www.cshardware.com/id-hingekit.html [eek] [eek]

 

[Paul G]

http://www.cshardware.com/id-hingekit.html [eek] [eek]

Yea, that's one I came across, have you used them before?

 

[Tim Morris]

Paul I've done one of each over the years. One that swung into the room and one that swung out of the room. The one that swung out of the room I concealed the opening behind a face frame that the case swung against. I used a continuous hinge for a solid core door like you see in a hospital. The one that swung into the room I did several years ago I attached the face frame on the hinge side to the case next to the one that swings then over hung the face frame on the top and the latch side. In that case I used the biggest hinges S.O.S.S. hinges made. I used five if I recall. I think the side on that case had to be 3 or 4 layers of 3/4" ply to give enough material to mortise the hinges in. The one swinging out of the room was definately easier to do and worked much nicer when finished.

 

[Paul G]

Thanks Tim, hadn't at all considered SASS hinges, hard to imagine that being strong enough to support a full bookcase but would be a viable option for a wall panel type doorway

 

[Paul G]

this is one of the better write ups on doing a secret bookcase/doorway, cool to see some festool in the picts as well lol

http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2012/05/11/hidden-pivot-bookcase-katz/

 

[chrismorrow]

I retrofitted a closet door with a bookcase. I used it to hold DVDs and CDs in a home theater. The closet itself housed all the electronics. I simply built the case and mouted it to the existing door hinges. They were plenty strong enought, as long as you have long enough screws to get a good bite of your door frame. Here are some pics:
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[Paul G]

That's nice Chris, did you do any sort of latching for it?

 

[chrismorrow]

I actually installed an electronic latch that was actuated by a hidden magnetic relay built into the cabinet. I had a DVD case or something with a rare earth magnet sitting over the relay (closed circuit). Upon removing the DVD case from the shelf, the circuit would open and the latch would open. The door had a counter weight to pull it open as soon as the latch opened. It was pretty cool. The possibilities are endless when it comes to switching the latch. It's all low voltage wiring. You could actuate it by simply sliding a candle stick a few inches to either side from across the room if you wanted. I even saw one install where the relay was built into a chess set, and by moving the correct piece to the correct spot, a door would open.

 

[Thunderchyld]

Speaking of hidden doorways, I'm debating a strange project.  We're remodeling my downstairs rec room and after removing 25 linear feet of counter-top, there's not a set place for the fridge.  I was going to build in a bookcase on that wall and build the case around the fridge, but we've decided the guest room gets a makeover as well, going full library with a murphy bed.  

I'm debating the feasibility of placing the fridge in the doorway between the rec room and the laundry room.  It's a secondary door, was mostly used to slip behind the bar when I had people over and they were standing in the way.

Haven't decided if it's the way I want to proceed, could always just take the option of a small fridge and build it into the base of the bar.  My biggest concern would have to be the pivot point, there would be some nice side loads from a fully loaded fridge.  If I do take this route, it might have to be a steel frame with wood facing.  

 

[Paul G]

I actually installed an electronic latch that was actuated by a hidden magnetic relay built into the cabinet. I had a DVD case or something with a rare earth magnet sitting over the relay (closed circuit). Upon removing the DVD case from the shelf, the circuit would open and the latch would open. The door had a counter weight to pull it open as soon as the latch opened. It was pretty cool. The possibilities are endless when it comes to switching the latch. It's all low voltage wiring. You could actuate it by simply sliding a candle stick a few inches to either side from across the room if you wanted. I even saw one install where the relay was built into a chess set, and by moving the correct piece to the correct spot, a door would open.

Sounds like something I'd want, provided it still works if the power went out. Where did you get the supplies for the latch system? That is uncharted waters for me

 

[chrismorrow]

Probably got it online. Just search for electronc latches. It was a failsafe open. So when power was removed it would open. As long as the magnet was in place over the relay, the circuit was closed.

 

[Paul G]

Probably got it online. Just search for electronc latches. It was a failsafe open. So when power was removed it would open. As long as the magnet was in place over the relay, the circuit was closed.

Might be able to rig the magnet part up with some of my alarm system leftovers, thanks  [big grin]

 

[bruegf]

I did something like this a few years ago.  Looks like its been archived of the forum, but it's still online at talkfestool.  Its not completely hidden as you can see the standard door hinges I used.

http://www.talkfestool.com/vb/woodworking-projects/1563-bookcase-closet-doors.html

Fred

 

[Paul G]

Thanks for sharing that Fred, if I wasn't concerned with concealing the hinges that would be perfect. Were you fine with the regular hinges?