Set up

[Bigbaz]

Hi guys.

I am totally new to Festool and its set up. I have just bought a TS 75 saw. Midi hoover and a MFT3 table. I now want to buy a 1400 guide rail and a 2700 rail. Is there much setting up 2 use the saw or is it just a matter of taking it out of the box and using it? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[DiscoStu]

Just take it out and use it. The first time you use the rail it will trim the edge so use it on a waste cut. Other than that I think you can just go for it!

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[Bohdan]

You will need to set the saw to the rail that you have. There are two screws in the base that adjust the slop in the rail slide.

Set these so that the saw slides easily with no side to side wobble.

This is explained in the manual.

 

[Bigbaz]

Thats grand. I will have to get time to read the manual fully before using.  Does the saw need set up to each different guide that it would be used on if i had 2 different lengths of guide?

 

[Bohdan]

Yes it does need to be set to each rail.

Talk to your supplier to see if he would let you select ones that are identical.

Otherwise - if they are new I would keep returning them and getting new ones until I had them all the same.

 

[mrboult]

Sorry, but I've never heard anything like Bohdan's comment before! And I do not agree.  I do not believe at all that the saw needs adjusting to each rail. No Way. The rails are identical (i'm sure a dud occasionally slips out of the factory).  I've never had the need to adjust between each rail - under that logic joining rails would be a joke.

To Set up the saw:

Join any rails you have - Sit the saw on the rails - Adjust/tighten the two green screws in the base so that the saw still glides silky on the track, but has no left/right wobble possible - make a full length cut (just a few mm depth but be sure to start and finish with both green screws fully on the track - this leaves a small amount of rubber splinter guard uncut on the start and finish of the track - reverse the joined guid rails so the un-cut sections of splinter guard are now in the middle of the joined tracks - repeat the cut - DONE

 

[ewils91]

I know if you typically use multiple saws on the same guides, you make your initial cut in the guide strips with a single saw then you adjust the remaining saws to cut in the same exact position. Could that be the confusion?

 

[Doug S]

Some of the rails are different, my 1.4 and 3m rails need the saw adjusting when I swap between them, it would not work well if I had to join them together.

 

[DiscoStu]

I'd actually forgotten about setting the saw to a rail but I've only ever done this once and it works fine for all rails.

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[Michael Kellough]

If you use the same saw on different guide rails the saw itself will trim the rubber strip to make the rails identical as far as matching the rail to the cut line goes.

If you use different saws you'll likely find that one of them will cut the rubber splinter guard down further. There is a process for making different saws cut the same.

The guide rails also vary. The nominal width of the guide rib on top of the rail is 16mm but it varies. You'll find when you join more than one rail together and adjust the gibs to be snug on one of the rails that the fit is different on the other. In that case put the thicker rib first paying attention to keep the splinter guard side of the ribs flush and then just maintain a little pressure against the flush side of the ribs as you guide the saw.

 

[rljatl]

You will want the 3000 rail for the TS75 instead of the 2700.  The TS75 is a bigger saw and needs the extra length to begin the cut without plunging.  You may get some kickback at the beginning of the cut when using the TS75 with the 2700 rail.

 

[Michael Kellough]

You will want the 3000 rail for the TS75 instead of the 2700.  The TS75 is a bigger saw and needs the extra length to begin the cut without plunging.  You may get some kickback at the beginning of the cut when using the TS75 with the 2700 rail.

Yep, TS 75 is to 2700 rail as the TS 55 is to the 1400 rail.