Setting MFT at 90*

[Woodwork Wizard]

Using the 5 cut method to establish what the error is on the off-cut I had to move my MFT guide rail approximately 0.11mm - so I had the idea of using a second locking stop with a set of feeler gauges between them to set this gap. Now the error is so insignificant I think I'd just end up sending myself completely mental trying to make it any less.

No idea if it is called a locking stop so here's a photo of what I did.

 

[peter halle]

Those stops are called Festool feather keys officially.  [big grin]

Peter

 

[TheSergeant]

Clever idea!  Thanks for sharing.  I've been trying to square my MFT up using Peter's method with bench dogs and the thing is consistently out of square.  The only reason I was going to keep my MFT is because I like the quick height adjustment and the flip down fence.  I can't get it accurate or repeatable so I was planning selling it and using my near finished MFTC w/ Parf Dogs instead.  I'll give this method a shot and see if it can't fix the problem.  Thanks again!

 

[Woodwork Wizard]

Peter,

Now you have reminded me yes it is the feather key.

Nice one.

 

[Birdhunter]

That's a neat idea. I'll have to remember the trick.

I use a big Woodpeckers framing square and Qwas dogs to get a perfect 90 degree cut consistently. Guess I'm not patient enough to do the 5 cut test.

 

[Flatsawn]

I don't understand is it a shim?

 

[Woodwork Wizard]

It is not a shim - the feeler gauge sets the gap (the correction) between the feather keys, once this is done then move the guide rail bracket up to the feather key.

 

[DzordanoBruno]

Really nice, thank You! Have You made another tunning?  Thank You for tips.

 

[Woodwork Wizard]

What's a tunning?

 

[sancho57]

Clever idea!  Thanks for sharing.  I've been trying to square my MFT up using Peter's method with bench dogs and the thing is consistently out of square.  The only reason I was going to keep my MFT is because I like the quick height adjustment and the flip down fence.  I can't get it accurate or repeatable so I was planning selling it and using my near finished MFTC w/ Parf Dogs instead.  I'll give this method a shot and see if it can't fix the problem.  Thanks again!

I had the same problem when i first started using festools. I was ready to get rid of all of them because I was ruining more material then I was cutting accurately.

After attending a Festool end user class I realized the problem.

The most common problem people have when setting up their MFT is not using a accurate known good square such as a woodpeckers 1281 or the Anderson Ply square for MFT.

Next I found that the little black plastic stop at the end of the fence will move on ya when bumped. So I used another protractor / angle stop on the fence . It's rock solid now.

W/W and Tom Bader both advised me to get a slop stop for the rail. I did and it makes,a difference.

Now mines cut very accurately better then when I was using my delta table saw.

 

[Sparktrician]

What's a tunning?

A tunning is cask that holds 252 gallons.

 

[Sparktrician]

Those stops are called Festool feather keys officially.  [big grin]

Peter

I've noticed that the feather key on the back side of the MFT is spaced at 189mm from the end of the extrusion into which it is set, while the feather key on the front is set at 223mm from the end of the extrusion into which it is set.  In case you ever have to move/remove them, you can set them back to factory standard easily.  The Slopstop mentioned by [member=10147]jobsworth[/member] is well worth the investment. 

 

[bigarm]

Those stops are called Festool feather keys officially.  [big grin]

Peter

I've noticed that the feather key on the back side of the MFT is spaced at 189mm from the end of the extrusion into which it is set, while the feather key on the front is set at 223mm from the end of the extrusion into which it is set.  In case you ever have to move/remove them, you can set them back to factory standard easily.  The Slopstop mentioned by [member=10147]jobsworth[/member] is well worth the investment.

I guess I must be an idiot.  I didn't know there is a front and back.  How do you tell the difference.  I have only set it up, not used it.  The day after setting it up I got really sick and haven't done anything in the shop since.

 

[Billedis]

Check out Paolini's video.  The front is the side with the label.  Bill

 

[Sparktrician]

Those stops are called Festool feather keys officially.  [big grin]

Peter

I've noticed that the feather key on the back side of the MFT is spaced at 189mm from the end of the extrusion into which it is set, while the feather key on the front is set at 223mm from the end of the extrusion into which it is set.  In case you ever have to move/remove them, you can set them back to factory standard easily.  The Slopstop mentioned by [member=10147]jobsworth[/member] is well worth the investment.

I guess I must be an idiot.  I didn't know there is a front and back.  How do you tell the difference.  I have only set it up, not used it.  The day after setting it up I got really sick and haven't done anything in the shop since.

If you're facing one of the long sides of the MFT and the feather key is 223mm from the right end as you face it, you're looking at the front.  If you're facing the other long side and the feather key is 189mm from the left end as you face it, you're looking at the back. 

 

[bigarm]

Those stops are called Festool feather keys officially.  [big grin]

Peter

I've noticed that the feather key on the back side of the MFT is spaced at 189mm from the end of the extrusion into which it is set, while the feather key on the front is set at 223mm from the end of the extrusion into which it is set.  In case you ever have to move/remove them, you can set them back to factory standard easily.  The Slopstop mentioned by [member=10147]jobsworth[/member] is well worth the investment.

I guess I must be an idiot.  I didn't know there is a front and back.  How do you tell the difference.  I have only set it up, not used it.  The day after setting it up I got really sick and haven't done anything in the shop since.

If you're facing one of the long sides of the MFT and the feather key is 223mm from the right end as you face it, you're looking at the front.  If you're facing the other long side and the feather key is 189mm from the left end as you face it, you're looking at the back.

Which side do you put the hinged plate on?

 

[bigarm]

I am going to have to look closely at my MFT/3 as I tore off the sticker before I put Danish oil on it.  Had no idea there was a front and back.

 

[sancho57]

Standing in front, facing the MFT I put the hinge on the right

 

[Sparktrician]

Those stops are called Festool feather keys officially.  [big grin]

Peter

I've noticed that the feather key on the back side of the MFT is spaced at 189mm from the end of the extrusion into which it is set, while the feather key on the front is set at 223mm from the end of the extrusion into which it is set.  In case you ever have to move/remove them, you can set them back to factory standard easily.  The Slopstop mentioned by [member=10147]jobsworth[/member] is well worth the investment.

I guess I must be an idiot.  I didn't know there is a front and back.  How do you tell the difference.  I have only set it up, not used it.  The day after setting it up I got really sick and haven't done anything in the shop since.

If you're facing one of the long sides of the MFT and the feather key is 223mm from the right end as you face it, you're looking at the front.  If you're facing the other long side and the feather key is 189mm from the left end as you face it, you're looking at the back.

Which side do you put the hinged plate on?

The hinged plate goes on the back. 

 

[Anderson-Plywood]

The new series of Anderson MFT squares are out!
We have trimmed square edges with Festool Trim Router and used the Festool VAC SYS (the new vacuum clamp) to hold the piece.
They look and feel much nicer now!

Here is the link to the Anderson MFT Square:http://www.andersonplywood.com/square-for-festool-mft-square/

Here is the Trim Router we used:http://www.andersonplywood.com/mfk-700-modular-trim-router-set-festool-574368-fes574368/

Here is the link to Festool VAC SYS Clamp:http://www.andersonplywood.com/festool-vac-sys-system-set-57000004-fes57000004/