Setting out fluted pilasters

[joiner1970]

Im about to flute some parts for the face frame units im making this week and im about to order the cutter. The pilasters/ stiles will be 20mm thick and 88mm wide and im going with 3 flutes and just two flutes on the end ones to allow for wall scribing.

Ive decided a 12.7mm (1/2") wide flute will look right but my question is do I just get a 12.7mm wide cove bit and set the plunge depth to half the diameter or do you go slightly bigger say 16mm and plunge slightly less than half the diameter . So still getting a 12.7mm wide flute but shallower.

Hope that makes sense.

 

[jimbouk]

Promise I'm not stalking you lol. I would use the 12.7 and plunge half depth. I think flutes look better semi circular.

 

[joiner1970]

Promise I'm not stalking you lol. I would use the 12.7 and plunge half depth. I think flutes look better semi circular.

Lol

Yeah ,I will run some samples in MDF to test but it looks like a 12.7mm cutter will be ok

 

[SMJoinery]

Both will work fine but the deeper 12.7mm will appear sharper to the eye.
How are you running them?
I tried to run them in my CMS and although happy with the initial test the best and fastest way was with the 3m rail with router attached.
I made a quick locating jig against a board the rail was attached to. Centred the first flute and ran them all. Then altered the jig with a spacer and ran the left and turned the board t and done the right. It resulted in all my flutes all lined up even when I didn't mark the top / bottom. Mine were over 2700mm but all joints lined up sweet as a nut! 
Hope that helps some. 

 

[joiner1970]

I've got a long rail and guide for my of1010 but I'm going to use the side fence and the guide rail attachment with a block of MDF fixed to it. Basically working as a double fence to lock over the material. I spotted the idea here.

 

[peter halle]

Good idea as long as everything is parallel!  [big grin]

Peter

 

[SMJoinery]

I've got a long rail and guide for my of1010 but I'm going to use the side fence and the guide rail attachment with a block of MDF fixed to it. Basically working as a double fence to lock over the material. I spotted the idea here.

That's a good idea.
Mine were stopped at bottom and top so didn't think of that method but using the kick back stops on the rail at each end made it a speedy process.

 

[joiner1970]

Good idea as long as everything is parallel!  [big grin]

Peter

That was my thoughts too if using a rail you'd have to make sure the wood is dead parallel to the rail.

Using the fence as I'm doing it follows the wood. Just need to clamp a stop each end.

 

[rst]

Rockler sells a nice easy to use jig that works out to 9.5"  I bought one to make fluted posts for a sign maker friend of mind and it worked great and was easy to  setup and use. 

 

[peter halle]

Good idea as long as everything is parallel!  [big grin]

Peter

That was my thoughts too if using a rail you'd have to make sure the wood is dead parallel to the rail.

Using the fence as I'm doing it follows the wood. Just need to clamp a stop each end.

Been there and done that.  I even have a video out there I think somewhere.

Peter

 

[joiner1970]

I've routed all the stiles now and they came out great. Just had a thought though should I cut some slots on the rear to stop any cupping or is there nothing to worry about.

They're 88mm x 20mm with 3 11mm wide x 4 or 5mm deep flutes. They will be glued and pinned to both carcases.

Do I bother slotting the backs on the table saw or am I worrying over nothing ?

 

[Doug S]

I have never bothered and never had a problem.

 

[joiner1970]

Cheers