Setup my new Lie Nielsen

[DynaGlide]

I decided to see what all the fuss was about these so called heirloom tools and ordered a LN 4 1/2 last week. It arrived and I spent a few hours doing trial and error to see how I liked it setup. When it isn't planing right it's frustrating but once everything clicks this thing is a joy to use. I think with time my setup time will go down. To all you hand tool users that I didn't understand before: I get it now! This is fun. I may have gotten carried away planing this poor board.

Matt

 

[mattgam]

Welcome to the addiction! 

Let me give you a LN protip.  They with no notice will drop random tools that they haven't made for years to https://www.lie-nielsen.com/nodes/4225/toms-toolbox. This AM they dropped a white bronze #2 which must of been available for sale for 30 seconds before someone scooped it up.  It can be fun to monitor just to see what random tool usually with exotic woods and metals they will drop.

I would also suggest their 60 1/2 rabbet block plane. I use that thing constantly in my shop. 

 

[Cheese]

I decided to see what all the fuss was about these so called heirloom tools and ordered a LN 4 1/2 last week. It arrived and I spent a few hours doing trial and error to see how I liked it setup. When it isn't planing right it's frustrating but once everything clicks this thing is a joy to use. I think with time my setup time will go down. To all you hand tool users that I didn't understand before: I get it now! This is fun. I may have gotten carried away planing this poor board.

Matt I'm really not a plane guy, but I've always preferred the 4 1/2 and 5 1/2 over their single digit siblings. The extra heft, the extra weight just makes them work better than their single number cousins. The action is smoother and it's just a more pleasurable experience. They are the best...

 

[DynaGlide]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] I wasn't until now, this is great:

[member=73660]mattgam[/member] for the sake of my bank account I think I'll avoid that link for the time being. 

 

[Cheese]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] I wasn't until now, this is great:

That curl's a thing of beauty Matt.  [big grin]

 

[Rutabagared]

DynaGlide,
Congrats on your new purchase.  It seems you have it setup about as good as it can be.  I’m finding that is half of the battle, with technique and work holding mostly making up the remainder.  You’ll find that the blade stays sharp for a long, long time.  As I delve deeper into the hand tool rabbit hole (rabbet hole?), I’m beginning to understand why pros have multiple copies of the the same or similar planes with different setups (blade angles, etc.).  When you have them setup just the way you want, it can be frustrating to change to fit the task at hand.

I’ve been on a LN buying spree lately.  I’ve been eyeing the 4 ½ as well.  I recently purchased the 164 (low angle smoother) and have been making friends with it on some scrap ash before I use it on some chairs I’ve been working on.
View attachment 1

Welcome to the addiction! 

Let me give you a LN protip.  They with no notice will drop random tools that they haven't made for years to https://www.lie-nielsen.com/nodes/4225/toms-toolbox. This AM they dropped a white bronze #2 which must of been available for sale for 30 seconds before someone scooped it up.  It can be fun to monitor just to see what random tool usually with exotic woods and metals they will drop.

I would also suggest their 60 1/2 rabbet block plane. I use that thing constantly in my shop. 

mattgam,
Thanks for posting that link.  I wasn’t aware that Tom’s toolbox operated that way.  I added it to the shortcut menu.
I recently acquired the 60 ½ for a specific application, realizing I would use it for general block plane use too.  I did find that my grip tended to fall directly into the openings on the side walls, making it a bit uncomfortable when using for extended periods.  That said, I tend not to use block planes for extended periods.  And I have a Veritas low angle that I acquired back in the day (retail $79).  I’ve been very happy with it and keep a blade in it with an “all purpose” angle of 45-ish, as well as a spare at a lower angle.  With the 60 ½ coming on board, I’ll probably just keep the 45 in the Veritas, and a low angle in the 60 ½ for end grain/cross grain.

View attachment 2View attachment 3

 

[DynaGlide]

How does that rabbeting block plane perform as an all around block plane? I have a Benchdogs from Rockler and I can't get it to do regular planing like on the face of a board. It's great for chamfers and edges. I think part of the issue is it's darn near impossible to get the blade to present itself evenly across the mouth opening. Really sloppy and easily knocked out of alignment.

I was looking to the Veritas for its set screws in the sole. I'd still like the LN but for doing tenons.

 

[Rutabagared]

It performs well as an all-around block plane.  It can easily face plane stock.  Regarding the Veritas.  I really don't use the set screws.  I did at first, but I don't have issues setting the blade parallel without them.  And they were more of a hinderance when removing or reinstalling the blade after I became accustomed to setting it manually.  The same for the Norris-style adjuster.  I typically adjust the blade laterally with my hands or a hammer tap.

There is little to choose between the Veritas and Lie-Nielsen models.  The Veritas does seem to fit my hand a bit better (just a smidge), but I may be biased after nearly 20 years of use.  And it is a bit wider, making it a comfortable shooter.

The one aspect where I believe the Lie-Nielsen block plane (standard, not rabbet) shines over the Veritas is the mouth adjustment mechanism.  The  adjustment of the cam lever is much easier for me to use than the knob (I use it on my other Lie-Nielsen planes). You can set it for a slight amount of friction and easily fine adjust the mouth to an almost microscopic opening (when putting it on bright background, busting out the bifocals, the runner's headlamp and the hand-held magnifier  [big grin]), which I find can be the critical in certain operations, sometimes making the difference between tear out and none.  The knob on my Veritas seems a bit crude by comparison, and I struggle with setting a fine mouth opening. It's seems either fully on or off and is more difficult for me to fine adjust (I don't care to admit how many times I backed it into the blade).

If I were only going to own a single block plane, it would be the 60 1/2 standard plane for the adjustable mouth which the rabbet plane lacks.

Good luck in whatever you choose.  You really can't go wrong with any of the models discussed in this thread.

 

[Rutabagared]

I also wanted to add that there is an aesthetic factor and the intangibles that accompany it (Hey, that’s where I’m at in my life at present).  The buying experience with Lie-Nielsen is as good as it gets.  The presentation of the tool, the tasteful box, manual and wrappings (getting to read the local Maine news when salvaging the packaging).  Then there’s the tool itself.  The machining and overall craftsmanship are just superb.  I’m actually surprised they can sell them at their prices.  And of course, they work every bit as well as they look.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

As I delve deeper into the hand tool rabbit hole (rabbet hole?), I’m beginning to understand why pros have multiple copies of the the same or similar planes with different setups (blade angles, etc.).  When you have them setup just the way you want, it can be frustrating to change to fit the task at hand.

That is exactly why I have so many routers. It's a simple grab and go with whatever bit I need at the time.

 

[Birdhunter]

The next depth on the LN rabbit hole is sharpening. From the looks of your shaving, the plane is already sharp.

I went through nearly every sharpening tool and machine before I settled on the LN water stones and their angle guide. Works for planes and chisels.

There is great satisfaction in using a truly sharp plane or chisel that doesn’t come from a power tool.

 

[hdv]

Great to see you're well on your way to become a hand tool addict/adept.  [thumbs up]

Be aware though that it can quite easily become just as expensive as that fearsome green Kool-Aid you are already familiar with...  [scared]

 

[DynaGlide]

Great to see you're well on your way to become a hand tool addict/adept.  [thumbs up]

Be aware though that it can quite easily become just as expensive as that fearsome green Kool-Aid you are already familiar with...  [scared]

Oh i know. I'm probably looking at the Veritas shooting plane next before circling back to a block plane to replace mine.

 

[Rutabagared]

I won’t promote a particular process or system for a specific person.  Whatever works for you in your application is the best. But I do want to give a shout out to Lee Valley for the 3M sharpening films/lapping plate and the MK II system.  I used to use waterstones.  However, my shop is in a detached garage with no water, so I found using waterstones to be inconvenient for me and often put it off, realizing that it is silly to pay for a premium tool, take the time to set it up and then use it somewhat dull.  I’m also sloppy by nature and used to make a mess of the workbench/floor/myself when sharpening and was never comfortable slopping water around all the iron tools or on the workbench.  I find that the sharpening films cut quicker than waterstones and produce a comparable finish.  Plus, I actually sharpen my tools when needed.

After initial sharpening, it usually only takes a few strokes on the 4000 and 8000 grits, followed by knocking off the burr on the back (about equal to the time it takes to set up the jig – literally just minutes).  I put films on a few lapping plates and keep the films/plates/jig all in one plastic container that I can just pull off the shelf, set up, sharpen and put away in minutes.

I really like the MK II system.  It is so repeatable and consistent, if you keep track of the angles including the micro bevel knob setting (I write them on the veritas plane blade cases, I’ll forget otherwise).  Reset the jig at the previous setting and you’re golden and back to work with no clean up.

I just sharpened a new spokeshave blade last night (free hand).  The entire process took less than 5 minutes.  Most of that time was flattening the back (about 30-40 swipes on each film 100µ – 1µ). 
New blade:

View attachment 5

100µ (course) just to get consistent scratches on along the very edge of the back (there’s a bit of a hollow in the center, but it doesn’t matter if it doesn’t reach the cutting edge.  I find that most of the Veritas and Lie-Nielsen blades have that hollow in the center of the back):  The vertical lines in the photos are just oil streaks and fuzz.
View attachment 6

30 µ (400x):
View attachment 1

9 µ (1200):
View attachment 2

3 µ (4000):
View attachment 3

1 µ (8000):
View attachment 4

I follow up with the bevel freehand (I ordered the small blade holder for the MK II, but it hasn’t arrived yet and I’m impatient.)  The Veritas is supplied with 5° micro bevel.  I painted the micro bevel with a marker for verification and simply rocked the tool from the primary to micro bevel and took 3-4 strokes backwards on the 9µ - 1µ (I only pull backwards when using the jig as well.  I tend to tear the paper when pushing forwards).  Finishing with the ruler trick on the back with the 1µ.  And, surpisingly, didn't cut myself when shaving my arm.

View attachment 7

 

[Cheese]

How does that rabbeting block plane perform as an all around block plane?

Well if the sole of the body and the blade edge are reliable indicators, this may answer your question.  [big grin]

A 60-1/2 rabbet on the left and a 60-1/2 standard on the right.

[attachimg=1]

Just noticed that LN has changed their lineup around, I guess, like Festool, it's the "get it while you can" approach. There are a lot of them that are not available and I noticed the 9-1/2 is no longer produced along with the fly rod variant and the 103. The 60-1/2 rabbet plane now has nickers on each side of the body. Here's mine...not a nicker in sight.

[attachimg=2]

 

[derekcohen]

With BD bench planes, learn to set a closed up chipbreaker for maximum performance.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Rutabagared]

Dereck,
Haha.  Proof is in the pudding.  Thanks for positing that.  Also, thanks for the side profile picks of the two planes.  I mentioned earlier in the thread that I prefer the feel of my Veritas a bit over the LN rabbet.  Part of the reason is that the lever cap of the LN rests slightly rearward in my palm versus the Veritas.  I was wondering if the configuration of the LN 60 1-2 (standard) was the same as the rabbet, or if the rabbet's was shifted slightly back to accomodate the side openings.  Your photo answered that.

Joe

 

[ChuckM]

Snip.. But I do want to give a shout out to Lee Valley for the 3M sharpening films/lapping plate and the MK II system.  I used to use waterstones.  However, my shop is in a detached garage with no water, so I found using waterstones to be inconvenient for me and often put it off, realizing that it is silly to pay for a premium tool, take the time to set it up and then use it somewhat dull.

My shop is too cold in the winter for water stones (frozen stones mean broken stones!), and I only use them (occasionally) in the summer or inside the house.

But for speed and durability, my go-to sharpening media are lapping films:https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/sharpening/sheets-and-belts/68943-diamond-lapping-film

For water, I keep one of these discarded laundry detergent containers filled with water in the shop:

[attachimg=1]

 

[JeffSD]

How does that rabbeting block plane perform as an all around block plane? I have a Benchdogs from Rockler and I can't get it to do regular planing like on the face of a board. It's great for chamfers and edges. I think part of the issue is it's darn near impossible to get the blade to present itself evenly across the mouth opening. Really sloppy and easily knocked out of alignment.

I was looking to the Veritas for its set screws in the sole. I'd still like the LN but for doing tenons.

I've had the 60 1/2 for a few years and it's my most used plane.

As you'd expect, it's great for finishing router cut rabbets and does well on the faces of thin stock boards.

 

[RussellS]

This is fun. I may have gotten carried away planing this poor board.

Matt

Was that poor board 6 inches thick when you began planing?