Shaker doors on router table

[joiner1970]

I'm about to build a few drawer fronts and a door for a job. I've done them various ways in the past but this time I've bought a proper cutter set for my router.

My question is, has anyone here got any ideas on ways of cutting the actual tenons ? Im thinking some sort of homemade sled type thing that I can just slide against my fence.

Could be something as simple as a square bit of mdf with a sacrificial face/backer that the rails rest against.

Ive seen the proper sleds but I don't think I wanna go down that route. If anyone has any ideas please let me know.

This is my set up below you can see the tenon cutter loose on the table.

 

[Rocky]

Check this out. 

 

[joiner1970]

Cheers Michael that's exactly what I was after. I thought I didn't need a proper sled.

 

[Brice Burrell]

Cheers Michael that's exactly what I was after. I thought I didn't need a proper sled.

I've used the scrap piece of ply or mdf as a backer block/sled too.  I'd suggest you use a bigger piece for your backing block/sled than shown in the video.

 

[joiner1970]

Cheers Michael that's exactly what I was after. I thought I didn't need a proper sled.

I've used the scrap piece of ply or mdf as a backer block/sled too.  I'd suggest you use a bigger piece for your backing block/sled than shown in the video.

Yeah I will probably use a bit of 25mm mdf. The rails and stiles will be 22mm moisture resistant mdf.

We've got quite a bit of spare 25mm mdf where I'm working, someone over ordered window boards. There must be about 10 or more left over and they're about 5.2m long 400mm wide. Bit of an expensive mistake for someone

 

[mastercabman]

Don't forget to use feather board to keep your pieces flat on the router table.
I have a set of tongue and groove bit,but I now have a shaker style bit set with a 15* bevel that I use for those type of doors.

 

[Brice Burrell]

Don't forget to use feather board to keep your pieces flat on the router table.
I have a set of tongue and groove bit,but I now have a shaker style bit set with a 15* bevel that I use for those type of doors.

It looks like he has feather board setup on his table. 

I love the 15 degree profile.

 

[mouppe]

I use a square piece of mdf with some Bessey toggle clamps screwed into it to hold the rails down if I need the extra security. They also help to push the piece through the cutter.

 

[Paul G]

Don't forget to use feather board to keep your pieces flat on the router table.
I have a set of tongue and groove bit,but I now have a shaker style bit set with a 15* bevel that I use for those type of doors.

Any chance you could post a pict of a finished 15 degree? You got me curious

 

[mastercabman]

Don't forget to use feather board to keep your pieces flat on the router table.
I have a set of tongue and groove bit,but I now have a shaker style bit set with a 15* bevel that I use for those type of doors.

Any chance you could post a pict of a finished 15 degree? You got me curious

try this
http://www.eagleamerica.com/images/uploads/3820_5185_popup.jpg
I don't have any doors laying around and someone has my set of bits
the only difference from a tongue and groove bit set, is the 15* bevel

 

[tjbnwi]

I have a few shakers with the 15º bevel in this Picasa album (not easy to see the bevel);

https://picasaweb.google.com/tbadernwi/Storage

Mine set is the Summerfield;

http://sommerfeldtools.com/professional-equipment-and-tools/router-bits-and-sets/router-bit-sets/3-pc-shaker-set

Tom

 

[Paul G]

Thanks for the example of 15 degree bevel, is there a functional benefit to this detail?

 

[Brice Burrell]

Thanks for the example of 15 degree bevel, is there a functional benefit to this detail?

No, it's purely for visual appeal.

 

[cliffp]

I'm no expert but I thought the way he cut the groove in the last few seconds of that video looked dangerous?

 

[tiralie]

I'm no expert but I thought the way he cut the groove in the last few seconds of that video looked dangerous?

Ya I agree, not particularly safe...not that I should talk.
Tim

 

[joiner1970]

Just been reading the info sheet I got with my cutter set. They suggest cutting all the grooves first then doing the tenons last. The set comes with shim washers so you can adjust the fit of the tenon. I suppose that's why they suggest doing grooves first, then I can run a few scraps through until I'm happy with the fit.

They also say to run the router at about 14000 rpm which is about level 4 on a 1 to 7 scale on my dewalt