Shaper Origin template job

[Crazyraceguy]

I finally got around to cutting the foot pockets for my Systainer pull-outs. This project has been in the back of my mind since I got the Origin, just never got around to actually doing it.
The main thing is that it's a rather large undertaking. I decided to cut the pattern with a .100" off-set, so it could be done with another router and a bushing.
I had some time for it today and got 12 of them done, which is only about half. [eek]

 

[montyss]

Looks like exactly what I'm looking at doing in the near future. Could you share the shaper svg file with me that you used for the pattern ?

 

[PaulMarcel]

I like that idea. Never thought of it. In my bench, they go in sideways so I put either a Domino or dowel where it will fit between the 'teeth' of the side locks (mine are mostly classics). The few T-locs just use the Domino/dowel as a stop. Works pretty well, but this looks like it would be much more solid while making insert/removal trival. I'll have to think about adding that!

 

[woodbutcherbower]

I did exactly the same thing whilst racking out my van 6-7 years ago. I made a routing template from 18mm MDF with a 9mm offset, and cut the holes using a 30mm guide bush, eventually making around 20 of them. Material was 12mm birch ply.

More pictures here;
https://systainer.works/vehicles/uk-ford-transit-with-custom-fitout

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

 

[peter halle]

[member=75780]woodbutcherbower[/member]  Nice van fit out! [big grin] [big grin]

Peter

 

[woodbutcherbower]

[member=75780]woodbutcherbower[/member]  Nice van fit out! [big grin] [big grin]

Peter

Thanks Peter. The layout's changed probably half-a-dozen times since the pictures were taken. I keep accidentally buying more equipment  [big grin]

 

[rmwarren]

I finally got around to cutting the foot pockets for my Systainer pull-outs. This project has been in the back of my mind since I got the Origin, just never got around to actually doing it.
The main thing is that it's a rather large undertaking. I decided to cut the pattern with a .100" off-set, so it could be done with another router and a bushing.
I had some time for it today and got 12 of them done, which is only about half. [eek]

CRG this is where Origin really shines in the workshop IMO. It's not necessarily that you use it to DO all the work, it's used to make the thing you need to then easily do the job. I run into this constantly, needing to make the thing needed to make the thing...

Just my dos pesos on the common question of where Origin fits into the shop. And, I'm guessing, you probably didn't need to do any 3rd party software design, just used on-tool design.

RMW

 

[Cheese]

I finally got around to cutting the foot pockets for my Systainer pull-outs. This project has been in the back of my mind since I got the Origin, just never got around to actually doing it.

Nice...I like that.  [big grin]  What size router bit did you use and I would also be interested in the .SVG file.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I finally got around to cutting the foot pockets for my Systainer pull-outs. This project has been in the back of my mind since I got the Origin, just never got around to actually doing it.

Nice...I like that.  [big grin]  What size router bit did you use and I would also be interested in the .SVG file.

I did, at least partly, use a file from the Shaper hub. I searched "Systainer feet" and found a pattern, done by a user named Nelson. It also included a rectangular pocket, in the front, to use as a pull. Since I have the Oak front edges for a pull, I just didn't cut that section.  Curiously though, the SVG shows all of the lines as "guide lines", so you need to change them to get cutting.
The pattern is a nice fit, but you would have to use Origin for every one of them, to do it this way.

For one or two, ok go for it. For over 20, that's silly, thus the template. One of my semi-permanent router set-ups has a 1/4" up cut bit with a 7/16" bushing. This gives a .093 off-set, so for templates I usually just give it .1 and it works just fine. There is no need for this to be watertight.
It is much faster and so much less wear and tear happens to the Origin this way too.

CRG this is where Origin really shines in the workshop IMO. It's not necessarily that you use it to DO all the work, it's used to make the thing you need to then easily do the job. I run into this constantly, needing to make the thing needed to make the thing...

Just my dos pesos on the common question of where Origin fits into the shop. And, I'm guessing, you probably didn't need to do any 3rd party software design, just used on-tool design.

RMW

Yes, Richard that is often the case for me. Except for engravings, I have probably made more templates that I have original parts with mine. Maybe not? I have done quite a few box joints with it too.
As I said above, it was a hub project, but if I did do it myself, I would have used Studio. It could be done "on tool" too though, it's not a complex pattern.
One of the guys I worked with years ago often made to comment that I was "in my element" when I "needed a jig to make a jig." I don't think he was aware that technically something as simple as the rip fence on the table saw would qualify, since jig and fixture are generally used interchangeably. He was right though, either way  [big grin]

[member=75780]woodbutcherbower[/member] that's a nice set-up for van shelves. It would keep them from moving around, still be easy to remove, and they would be totally interchangeable too.
I am curious about the rectangular pocket in the middle. What is that for?

 

[woodbutcherbower]

I am curious about the rectangular pocket in the middle. What is that for?

They’re to assist with the fact that the only way to remove Gen2 Systainers from a construction like this is to pull ‘em out using the T-Loc - which is perfectly OK 99% of the time. Once in awhile though, I’ll need to pull something heavy out in a Sys1 (the Mafell jigsaw being the most common offender) and instead of it sliding out, the T-Loc pops off. So these odd heavy items always have something lightweight located underneath them. So I quickly take out the featherweight, and use the hole to lift the heavyweight above. Once it’s been pushed upwards from below by half an inch, it can be pulled straight out. It sounds cumbersome, but it actually isn’t (10-second rather than 5-second removal) and it’s something I only need to do once in a blue moon.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Ah ha, something I wouldn't have thought about, since mine are on drawer slides, which wouldn't do so well in a van. I suppose you could rig up some kind of stops, to keep them from moving, but why carry the extra weight? Plus, like you said, it has been reconfigured a few times, so that would needlessly complicate things.