Sheet goods and the 55" rail

[stidrvr]

Is there a diagram or video that shows how short the 55" rail is when breaking down sheet goods. I know its better to have the 75" rail and people have tried to explain it, but it'd like to see a pic of it if I could.

 

[jeh]

Is there a diagram or video that shows how short the 55" rail is when breaking down sheet goods. I know its better to have the 75" rail and people have tried to explain it, but it'd like to see a pic of it if I could.

No video needed. The 55" rail only gives you 7" to split between the ends, which is not enough to lock the saw on the track. The 75" or a 55" joined to a shorter rail will work.

 

[stidrvr]

Is there a diagram or video that shows how short the 55" rail is when breaking down sheet goods. I know its better to have the 75" rail and people have tried to explain it, but it'd like to see a pic of it if I could.

No video needed. The 55" rail only gives you 7" to split between the ends, which is not enough to lock the saw on the track. The 75" or a 55" joined to a shorter rail will work.

Right, so say for a 49" sheet width. I lay the track down, and position it so that the saw will completely plunge through in the beginning. Since the track is only 6" longer than the sheet, and some of that is on the starting side of the cut, when I complete the cut on the other side, the saw will "run off the edge of the rail" so to speak.

The reason I'm asking is because I could see that by doing that the saw might pivot side to side ever so slightly if it's not fully "locked" onto the rail. Thus damaging the splinter guard (rubber stuff on the bottom), or possibly the track/blade.

I know the 75" rail is ideal, I'm just trying to maximize the money that I have to work with.

 

[Staniam]

Plunge the saw and have more of your track on the finish side. And why can't you clamp the track?

 

[Shane Holland]

If you call us to order, we will swap the 55" rail for a longer rail for the difference in price. Better to have the right rail than risk making cuts that are not optimally set up. It would be $711 for the TS 55 with a 75" rail. Or, even go with the 106" rail for 8' cuts.

877-866-5688

 

[ear3]

I usually bias the extra overhang towards the front of the saw rather than the back so I can make a full plunge before the blade hits the sheet.  You only need a couple of inches at the end.  The 55" rail is just long enough for a safe plunge with the TS55, but not with a TS75.

 

[johninthecamper]

any body part or injury is worth $71(or the $200) dollars to me.screwed up work can add up too.
why stretch the system's limits

 

[Grasshopper]

I totally regret not buying the larger rail from the beginning.  Don't fiddle with the small stuff...get the right tool/accessory in the first place and focus on the job(s) at hand.

I've never had to plunge a crosscut with the smaller rail, but I do get some wiggle either on entry of the cut, or when I finish the cut.

I finally spring for the really long rail for full sheet rips and I love it.  I choked on the cost, but am not looking back!  (initially I'd join two rails, but that was such a pain).

Err on the side of a larger rail than you need vs. too small.  My two cents.

 

[Holmz]

If you call us to order, we will swap the 55" rail for a longer rail for the difference in price. Better to have the right rail than risk making cuts that are not optimally set up. It would be $711 for the TS 55 with a 75" rail. Or, even go with the 106" rail for 8' cuts.

877-866-5688

[member=6515]stidrvr[/member]  IMO ^This^ is the no brainer!

 

[stidrvr]

If you call us to order, we will swap the 55" rail for a longer rail for the difference in price. Better to have the right rail than risk making cuts that are not optimally set up. It would be $711 for the TS 55 with a 75" rail. Or, even go with the 106" rail for 8' cuts.

877-866-5688

[member=6515]stidrvr[/member]  IMO ^This^ is the no brainer!

That is what I will most likely be doing, except probably going for the 106" rail. Id like to get an MFT as well to take advantage of the discount. Hence the comment about only having so much money to work with. The whole reason I started this thread is because Ive read that using the 55" rail isn't the best for full length crosscuts but no where have I found any real explanation or picture of why that is or how short it is. The general reply is to just get the 75" rail. Even though that is the best option, I usually like to know why I need to do something other than because someone told me to do it. Its almost like I'd want the first hand experience without going through the headache. I guess I could have gone to the dealer, but I think this comment below sums up what I was looking for.

but I do get some wiggle either on entry of the cut, or when I finish the cut.

 

[Holmz]

[member=6515]stidrvr[/member] if there was a like button, I would have click it for Shane.

 

[Shane Holland]

[member=6515]stidrvr[/member] if there was a like button, I would have click it for Shane.

[thumbs up]

 

[Holmz]

[member=48572]Shane Holland[/member] have a good day sir.
(Prolly n'oight there now)

 

[tjskinny]

[attachimg=14]I just happen to be cutting some 4' x 8' this morning, so here are some pictures of the 55" rail on a 49" wide piece of plywood.  You can see if you plunge the saw down first, and leave just enough to engage both the saw track guides, you see there is only about an inch left at far end.  So thats why I use the 75".

I also put the 75" rail next to it so you can get a clear picture of the difference.

The other benifit of the 75" is that it it is long enough to also use the parallel guides across a 49" panel.

 

[bkharman]

That is the same way I do it. It works fine for ½ and ¾ material.

 

[rvieceli]

That is what I will most likely be doing, except probably going for the 106" rail. Id like to get an MFT as well to take advantage of the discount. Hence the comment about only having so much money to work with. The whole reason I started this thread is because Ive read that using the 55" rail isn't the best for full length crosscuts but no where have I found any real explanation or picture of why that is or how short it is. The general reply is to just get the 75" rail. Even though that is the best option, I usually like to know why I need to do something other than because someone told me to do it. Its almost like I'd want the first hand experience without going through the headache. I guess I could have gone to the dealer, but I think this comment below sums up what I was looking for.

Let me suggest that if you are going to go for a long rail then grab the 3000 (118") and not the 2700 (106). Basically for three reasons, the 3000 is only USD24 more than the shorter 2700, the 3000 will give you more take off and landing space, and finally should you need to make a diagonal cut the long way on a 4x8 sheet you'll have more guide rail to make it happen.

Ron

 

[stidrvr]

[attachimg=14]I just happen to be cutting some 4' x 8' this morning, so here are some pictures of the 55" rail on a 49" wide piece of plywood.  You can see if you plunge the saw down first, and leave just enough to engage both the saw track guides, you see there is only about an inch left at far end.  So thats why I use the 75".

I also put the 75" rail next to it so you can get a clear picture of the difference.

The other benifit of the 75" is that it it is long enough to also use the parallel guides across a 49" panel.

tjskinny, thanks so much for the pics. That explains it even more. The visual sure helps me out.

That is what I will most likely be doing, except probably going for the 106" rail. Id like to get an MFT as well to take advantage of the discount. Hence the comment about only having so much money to work with. The whole reason I started this thread is because Ive read that using the 55" rail isn't the best for full length crosscuts but no where have I found any real explanation or picture of why that is or how short it is. The general reply is to just get the 75" rail. Even though that is the best option, I usually like to know why I need to do something other than because someone told me to do it. Its almost like I'd want the first hand experience without going through the headache. I guess I could have gone to the dealer, but I think this comment below sums up what I was looking for.

Let me suggest that if you are going to go for a long rail then grab the 3000 (118") and not the 2700 (106). Basically for three reasons, the 3000 is only USD24 more than the shorter 2700, the 3000 will give you more take off and landing space, and finally should you need to make a diagonal cut the long way on a 4x8 sheet you'll have more guide rail to make it happen.

Ron

Yeah, I forgot about the diagonal cutting part as well. I think I actually read that somewhere in the past few days too. And like you said for only $24 more, its a no brainer for sure!

 

[weekendwarrior]

[member=6515]stidrvr[/member] if there was a like button, I would have click it for Shane.

There's a Thumbs Up/Like button visible if you use Tapatalk.  No idea why Festool doesn't display it.