Shelf pins, drawer slides, LR-32

[Rick Herrick]

My current project gave me my first time to do drawer slides.  I also had some adjustable shelves.  To me, shelf pins need holes and drawer slides need holes, both completely different (to me at least).  But I have seen past posts here and been watching a lot of YT videos.  What caught my eye this weekend is a guy was using his LR32 to create his holes so that he could use either slides or pins???? 

So my question is, can the holes created by the LR32 (or any hole boring method I guess) be used for both pins and slides?  Just looking for clarification as I would never expect either a 1/4" or 5mm shelf pin hole to be useable by a drawer slide.  Thank you.

 

[Sparktrician]

The LR 32 will bore holes in 5mm.  What you put in them is up to you; 5mm screws or 5mm pins.  I'd suggest that it would not be wise to go back and forth.  In other words, don't use 5mm screws, take them out, and expect to use 5mm pins afterwards.  With drawer glides, check the manufacturer's spec sheet for spacing of the holes (front-to-back).  This is much more critical than if you're using pins for shelves. 

 

[Rick Herrick]

Thank you.  I can't imagine using a 5mm screw to attach a slide to the cabinet any way.  At least in my limited experience, I am using 5/8" #6 or #8s to mount my slides.  I guess I was hoping there was some magic out there I did not know about, but doesn't appear to be the case.  Appreciate the info.

 

[tdwilli1]

Thank you.  I can't imagine using a 5mm screw to attach a slide to the cabinet any way.  At least in my limited experience, I am using 5/8" #6 or #8s to mount my slides.  I guess I was hoping there was some magic out there I did not know about, but doesn't appear to be the case.  Appreciate the info.

These are the screws to use for the 5mm holes. They are intended for drawer slides of all types.
https://www.amazon.com/Rok-Hardware-Cross-Screws-Fasteners/dp/B01LY32ZMG/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=5mm+drawer+screw&qid=1583162071&sr=8-1

 

[jeffinsgf]

Rick,

A couple months ago I went through the same questions you're asking. I couldn't figure out how 32mm system worked for both. I did a little digging and found out about the screws tdwilli1 mentioned. Here's another source:https://www.mcfeelys.com/5mm-x-145m...el-plated-flat-head-pozi-drive-qty-10000.html

I did some base cabinets for an outfeed table with sliding trays for Systainers and pinned shelves. The funny little screws work amazingly well. Best and easiest drawer slide installation I've ever done.

 

[Dove_Tail]

Hi Rick,

The beauty of the 32mm system is that once you've done your line boring, those holes can be used for shelf pins, drawer slides AND hinge base plates.

I bore my front holes with a "set back" of 37 mm from the front edge of the carcass.  This is a standard setback for euro hardware.

I normally use Blum Tandem undermount drawer slides.  The holes in the Tandem slides are machined to accept 5mm euro screws.  The ones in the link above will work.  With holes bored at a 37mm set back, these slides can be placed at exactly the 3mm set back per the installation specs.

I also use Blum hinges.  The hinge base plates fit exactly into a pair of holes spaced 32mm and require the same 37mm set back.  Once you've chosen a base plate position, you simply drill the hinge cup in the door to match.  Other manufacturer's hardware works with the same setback (Grass, Salice, etc.)

The rear row of holes is not as critical, but should be bored so that one of the rear holes in your slides will line up.

Cheers,
Mark

 

[Rick Herrick]

Thank you.  I can't imagine using a 5mm screw to attach a slide to the cabinet any way.  At least in my limited experience, I am using 5/8" #6 or #8s to mount my slides.  I guess I was hoping there was some magic out there I did not know about, but doesn't appear to be the case.  Appreciate the info.

These are the screws to use for the 5mm holes. They are intended for drawer slides of all types.
https://www.amazon.com/Rok-Hardware-Cross-Screws-Fasteners/dp/B01LY32ZMG/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=5mm+drawer+screw&qid=1583162071&sr=8-1

That clears things up a bit.  I think I have seen similar screws in those store bought, put together yourself, kind of units.  Thanks for the link.  Have already been using Rok so I will add these to the drawer box. 

 

[Rick Herrick]

Hi Jeff, thanks for the additional link.  I almost choked until I saw it was for quantity 10000.  I found the 100 link.  Both of these look very sturdy.  This is could easily make my drawer slide installs go better.  I put so many holes in my first attempt, almost had to replace the spacer I was using..

Mark, thanks for the info.  I don't have the LR32 yet, just been using the simple Kreg shelf pin jig.  But I want to standardize on my slides and hinges so I have to work that out.  I need to look at the slides I have now to see how these screws would work.  This has all been very informative.  Thanks guys.

 

[Dove_Tail]

Rick - for what it's worth...  I used to own a big commercial shop.  I had a 21-spindle line boring machine.  It was great and fast.  I've also done line boring with the drill press, shelf pin jigs and the Festool LS32.

By far the LR32 produces the best results - I love it for hobby use.  It is a worthy contender for light commercial use as well.  The holes are super clean and the spacing is perfect. 

The question become whether to use the OF 1010 or 1400 router.  I chose the 1400 as it has more power and a 1/2" collet so it's more versatile given my router bit collection.  If I had money to blow, I'd pick up the 1010 for line boring as it's lighter and handles better.  If you read this forum, when asked which ONE router to buy for LR32, most will answer 1400.

 

[Cheese]

FWIW...the #6 screws you were going to use are the equivalent of a 3.5 mm screw, #8 the equivalent of a 4 mm screw and the 5 mm screws you will now be using, the equivalent of a #10 screw.  [smile]  Viel besser

 

[jeffinsgf]

Rick,

I think you'll find that just about any slide out there is set up with a hole for a Euro-screw 37mm back from the front edge of the cabinet. The wildcard is the position of the back screw. Most ball bearing slides have a bunch of different holes. The "system" hole will be a hole -- not a slot. Get a metric tape and/or rule...when you measure between the front hole and the back hole, it will usually come out to something even...and it sure won't in inches.

If you're doing both shelves and drawers in the same cabinet, the spacing for the slides will generally work for shelf pins, too.

 

[Rick Herrick]

The question become whether to use the OF 1010 or 1400 router.  I chose the 1400 as it has more power and a 1/2" collet so it's more versatile given my router bit collection.  If I had money to blow, I'd pick up the 1010 for line boring as it's lighter and handles better.  If you read this forum, when asked which ONE router to buy for LR32, most will answer 1400.

Thanks Dove_Tail,

I really want neat holes.  I have tried 3 Kreg bits and the holes are terrible.  I looked at the 1400 this weekend and although I am not ready for that purchase yet, it does look like the way I would normally go.  But the majority of my router work may be these holes for shelfs/drawers so I will look at the 1010 just to make sure in case it will do most of what I want.

 

[Rick Herrick]

FWIW...the #6 screws you were going to use are the equivalent of a 3.5 mm screw, #8 the equivalent of a 4 mm screw and the 5 mm screws you will now be using, the equivalent of a #10 screw.  [smile]  Viel besser

Hi Cheese, one of the screws suggested was 6mm.  Will that work in this situation?  I think so, from what I read, but wanted another opinion.  Either way, I will test them.

 

[jeffinsgf]

Rick,

I don't think you will ever regret getting the 1010. I own a lot of routers from a lot of different manufacturers. The OF-1010 (or in my case OF-1000) is my favorite and the one I reach for the most. It's only drawback is the lack of a half-inch collet.

 

[Rick Herrick]

Rick,

I think you'll find that just about any slide out there is set up with a hole for a Euro-screw 37mm back from the front edge of the cabinet. The wildcard is the position of the back screw. Most ball bearing slides have a bunch of different holes. The "system" hole will be a hole -- not a slot. Get a metric tape and/or rule...when you measure between the front hole and the back hole, it will usually come out to something even...and it sure won't in inches.

If you're doing both shelves and drawers in the same cabinet, the spacing for the slides will generally work for shelf pins, too.

Thanks Jeff, looks like I have more investigation to do.  I just pulled out a set of the slides I used on my wife's sewing cabinet and I can only see 1 hole that looks like it will accommodate these 5/6mm screws but until I have them in my hand.  That hole is about 80mm from the front.  There is a hole right at 35mm but its one of those vertical alignment holes.  So maybe I need to find different slides.  These are 'ProSeries 2.0' I got off of Amazon.  I also have some Friho slides and those look to have even less # of holes.  Attached is a couple pics of the ProSeries.

 

[Lincoln]

Rick, that's the half of the slide that attaches to the drawer, not the cabinet.

 

[Cheese]

Hi Cheese, one of the screws suggested was 6mm.  Will that work in this situation?  I think so, from what I read, but wanted another opinion.  Either way, I will test them.

Rick, if you’re drilling 5 mm diameter holes then a fastener with a 6 mm OD should fit fine. However, you need to measure the hole diameters in the slides.

 

[jeffinsgf]

Rick, that's the half of the slide that attaches to the drawer, not the cabinet.

Yep...flip it over and look at the other side.

 

[Rick Herrick]

Wow, color me embarrassed.  Thanks guys, I found the missing holes.. [eek]

 

[jeh]

I really want neat holes.  I have tried 3 Kreg bits and the holes are terrible.  I looked at the 1400 this weekend and although I am not ready for that purchase yet, it does look like the way I would normally go.  But the majority of my router work may be these holes for shelfs/drawers so I will look at the 1010 just to make sure in case it will do most of what I want.

Take a look at the Mafell DD40P Duo Dowel System. It does a lot more than the LR32 and OF1010 combination does including the work of joining. Only catch is to do really straight holes you need the template guide and they are not cheap. Dead-on every single time without any of the thinking needed with the LR32. It is quite easy to whiff if you are not a regular user.

For the record I had the LR32 system and switched to the Mafell after seeing it in action. I ditched by DF500 to make the price more palatable.