Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Paint

[JCLP]

Hello Foggers,
I haven't posted in a very long time. I've been busy building stuff and  testing out new paints. Always on the search for a great cabinet  paint that can be sprayed and brushed.
This is a test of Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane paint. The pen is there so the camera could focus on something.

Cheers,
JC

 

[RKA]

That looks really good.  I assume it was sprayed?  I wasn't able to get it to flow out well with two different rollers.  I added floetrol after the first attempt which slightly improved the flow out, but not enough to make me happy.  Brush worked better for me probably because I was able to load it up better than 3" short nap rollers, but it was still very evident it was brushed.  If you have any tips for a smooth hand applied finished with this paint, I'm all ears!

 

[Pnw painter]

Adding extender really helps the Emerald Urethane flow out and give you more open time when you’re brushing it.

Have you done any durability testing? My clients Spec’d it so I didn’t do any durability testing before I used it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JCLP]

Found out that this paint is based on the Pro Industrial urethane paint that sw sells. I was told that this has a pencil hardness between 4h and 5h after 7 days of curing under ideal co conditions.

 

[JCLP]

That looks really good.  I assume it was sprayed?  I wasn't able to get it to flow out well with two different rollers.  I added floetrol after the first attempt which slightly improved the flow out, but not enough to make me happy.  Brush worked better for me probably because I was able to load it up better than 3" short nap rollers, but it was still very evident it was brushed.  If you have any tips for a smooth hand applied finished with this paint, I'm all ears!

You are correct, this was sprayed. As for brushing, I'm doing some testing with different brushes and technique. Sherwin Williams has also asked me to do this. The goal is minimal brush marks. I'll post my findings here. Stay tuned.

JC

 

[rmwarren]

JC very interested in seeing your brush test results. As a DIY hack I'd love to have a high-quality brushable finish.

Thanks for posting & sharing your results.

RMW

 

[Alan G]

[/quote]

You are correct, this was sprayed. As for brushing, I'm doing some testing with different brushes and technique. Sherwin Williams has also asked me to do this. The goal is minimal brush marks. I'll post my findings here. Stay tuned.

JC
[/quote]

What did you spray it with?
How was the gun set up? Did you thin it or use any additive?

 

[JCLP]

You are correct, this was sprayed. As for brushing, I'm doing some testing with different brushes and technique. Sherwin Williams has also asked me to do this. The goal is minimal brush marks. I'll post my findings here. Stay tuned.

JC
[/quote]

What did you spray it with?
How was the gun set up? Did you thin it or use any additive?
[/quote]

Hi Alan,
This was sprayed with a Graco GX19, no thinning. 60 mesh filter in gun. FFLP208 tip, 2000psi.
This paint is tricky. Eventhough you are using a FFLP tip, you still need to have the PSI at 2000. Reason is you need to spray 2 passes of a fine mist and do not exceed 4 wet mils. Many people spray way too thick and paint remains tacky or takes a long time to dry. Remember, 4 wet mils is 4000th of an inch and is the average thickness of a human hair. I forgot, I'm about 12-14" from the surface and moving quickly.

Cheers,
JC

 

[Sparktrician]

[member=24938]JCLP[/member], have you considered spraying Emerald with HVLP?  I'm interested in your thoughts on this.  Must admit that I'm very much a rookie when it comes to spraying finishes. 

 

[JCLP]

[member=24938]JCLP[/member], have you considered spraying Emerald with HVLP?  I'm interested in your thoughts on this.  Must admit that I'm very much a rookie when it comes to spraying finishes.

I thought about it but even with a Fuji Q5, you would have to thin approx. 30% with water. This will dramatically affect the hardness of the paint when cured. Because the level of quality that is acceptable varies so much from person to person, it is hard to determine whether thinning it that much would be acceptable to me, probably not. I'm very picky and I'm getting very close to factory finish. If I had an air assisted sprayer, I probably would get a car finish quality.

I use my Q5 for clear coats and very tin paint like the Duralaq line from BM and the Kem Aqua line from SW.

Cheers,
JC

 

[Alan G]

[/quote]

What did you spray it with?
How was the gun set up? Did you thin it or use any additive?
[/quote]

Hi Alan,
This was sprayed with a Graco GX19, no thinning. 60 mesh filter in gun. FFLP208 tip, 2000psi.
This paint is tricky. Eventhough you are using a FFLP tip, you still need to have the PSI at 2000. Reason is you need to spray 2 passes of a fine mist and do not exceed 4 wet mils. Many people spray way too thick and paint remains tacky or takes a long time to dry. Remember, 4 wet mils is 4000th of an inch and is the average thickness of a human hair. I forgot, I'm about 12-14" from the surface and moving quickly.

Cheers,
JC
[/quote]

Thanks for the good info. I really appreciate it. Paint is tough to spray. I sprayed out a sample of this for a project with my Graco 9.5 and have to thin it 25%, and it still did not lay out very well.
It was just for a color sample to get some ML Campbell matched off of so not the end of the world. But unless some one can give me their secret recipe, I dont think I am going to spray that out of my turbine again.

 

[Wood Eye]

I thought about it but even with a Fuji Q5, you would have to thin approx. 30% with water. This will dramatically affect the hardness of the paint when cured. Because the level of quality that is acceptable varies so much from person to person, it is hard to determine whether thinning it that much would be acceptable to me, probably not. I'm very picky and I'm getting very close to factory finish. If I had an air assisted sprayer, I probably would get a car finish quality.

I use my Q5 for clear coats and very tin paint like the Duralaq line from BM and the Kem Aqua line from SW.

Cheers,
JC

I'm spraying with a Fuji Mini Mite 4 stage and someone in another thread recommended Emerald Urethane to me (doing new cabs, new raw wood windows, primed doors and trim).  Holy cow is that stuff thick.  Stopped a Ford #4 test at five minutes right out of the can.  Thinned to 20% and with a #6/2.0mm cap it still splatters like crazy.  Since I have the can I'll probably keep thinning until I can get it to atomize just as a test, but guessing it will be at least 30% and that's too much to trust on my customer.  Can't get gallons of Kem Aqua at any stores here but my rep is going to get me a can to try.  Is Kem Aqua quite a bit thinner than the Emerald?  What cap and thinning do you use spraying KA+ with your Q5?  The only one of the three you mentioned that I've used in BM Advance, but wanted something with a shorter recoat time.  Of the three, what would be your choice for the stuff I've mentioned?

 

[tiralie]

Can't get gallons of Kem Aqua at any stores here but my rep is going to get me a can to try.  Is Kem Aqua quite a bit thinner than the Emerald? 

Yes. Just use Kem Aqua, way easier to spray than Advance or Emerald to spray with a turbine. Try other SW dealers until they sell it to you.
Emerald is harder to spray than Advance with a airless. Advance takes longer to dry but in my opinion way easier to work with.
Tim

 

[Slippycog]

If you are in the southwestern US area Dunn-Edwards Paints has a similar urethane resin interior/exterior paint marketed as Aristoshield; I’ve used it several times:
brush painted a frame and panel garage door (two tone); airless sprayed (Titan Impact 400) baseboards for an entire condo floor install (outside, pre install); and brush painted various interior doors, casings and baseboards. Using a high quality brush and applying diligently, this stuff dries with imperceptible brush marks. It’s thick enough to not drip or run on vertical surfaces and dries a lot quicker than BM Advance. It also sprays beautifully un-thinned. It’s available in gloss and low-sheen, and I’m told Dunn-Edwards has added satin recently. I like this stuff better than Emerald or Advance.

 

[mkasdin]

I use DE Dunn Edwards a lot. I did my baseboards in Aristoshield “whisper.” 9 months later I came back to find that the paint had yellowed. I was not surprised, since white does yellow, but what’s the point of picking out a color if it changes. Prior to using Whisper I painted with “white heat” but that has too much yellow in the formula.

 

[Slippycog]

I use the off-the-shelf Aristoshield “tintable white base” with no tint added (low sheen). I haven’t noticed any yellowing yet, but it’s been only 6-12 months. For the condo baseboard job I used “Whisper White” semi-gloss as specified by the designer; Whisper White is tinted to a slightly off-white shade; maybe what it’s tinted with  causes yellowing over time or maybe the Urethane Alkyd binder they use causes it. The baseboards and finish stair risers were installed against coffee-brown “luxury vinyl” plank floor/treads and light grey walls; so far no complaints of yellowing, but against coffee-brown and grey any yellowing could be obscured.

 

[mkasdin]

I use the off-the-shelf Aristoshield “tintable white base” with no tint added (low sheen). I haven’t noticed any yellowing yet, but it’s been only 6-12 months. For the condo baseboard job I used “Whisper White” semi-gloss as specified by the designer; Whisper White is tinted to a slightly off-white shade; maybe what it’s tinted with  causes yellowing over time or maybe the Urethane Alkyd binder they use causes it. The baseboards and finish stair risers were installed against coffee-brown “luxury vinyl” plank floor/treads and light grey walls; so far no complaints of yellowing, but against coffee-brown and grey any yellowing could be obscured.

I used the same color “whisper”. After 12 months you will see a yellowing. You need to paint a new piece and give it 2 coats or just go over an old piece. You may or may not see it if it’s a nailed down baseboard? But if you held up new fresh coat of paint vs older you’ll see the yellowing. It looses some of the pop. Starts looking like a light DE  “Swiss coffee”

 

[PearTreeRefinishers]

Hello all, new to the board and just found this thread.  I am a cabinet and furniture refinisher and we use Emeral Urethane all the time and i spray through an HVLP with compressed air.  I found that thinning with 22.5% distilled water gives outstanding results and hardness. 
I do a drop test sometimes for potential clients where i drop a cabinet door onto concrete in their driveway to show the hardness of the door.
For rolling we use Sherwin Williams 4" Flockfoam roller, back roll nice and slow with even strokes, also we try to limit the time applying the paint, I do not thin or use any retarder when rolling and there are minimal brush marks.  I use Corona Chinex brushes

 

[waho6o9]

Nice calling card PTR and welcome to the FOG!

 

[xedos]

Feel like I'm in an infomercial.  [wink]

Did you realize you're not supposed to thin Emerald ?    And even if you chose to, 22+%  is A LOT !

from SW's Emerald data sheet:

APPLICATION
Apply at temperatures above 50°F (10°C).
No reduction needed.

Brush:
Use a nylon-polyester brush.

Roller:
Use a 1/4 to 1/2 inch nap woven cover.
For specific brushes and rollers, please refer
to our Brush and Roller Guide.
Spray—Airless

Pressure 2000 p.s.i.
Tip .013-.017 inch

HVLP System: Graco® HVLP 9.5, number 3
or 4 needle and cap, two-thirds air pressure,
number 5 material setting. Single turbine, no
reduction. Or equivalent.

You should have a look into enlarging your needle/nozzle size.