Shop / Site Cabinet build method

[Guilliaume woodworks]

Last year I changed my method of cabinet making. I used to build all boxes in shop,then they'd sit in the way until install,then I'd load a mound of carcasses in trailer or multiple trip in truck & unload boxes which had to be carefully maneuvered through hallways,doorways,stairways,etc.
Then I tried building completely on site (with festools system) but  there are many problems with that. Mainly finding space large enough to work in and storing large amounts of material & security. Every job seemed to have different circumstances that  prevented that method of working smoothly.
So....today's method
In my small shop with mainly table saw& router table I do all ripping of sheet goods to depth of cabinets. Lowers & uppers. Edgeband 8' rips if needed.Then cross cut  all walls because those are usually all typical . Next I cross cut bottoms,dust rails & top cleats ..leaving them long to cut on site. Rip toe kick,cleats ,back heights or whatever ripping needs are to minimize cutting at project. Then bundle individual cab parts flat & label. Stacking them requires little space,easy to transport with no need for trailer, easy to unload and into site.  This is where the beauty of the festool system thrives, minimal space at job site is required,usually set up in room of install. Basically just cross cutting manageable pieces on mft and assembling . I order doors and drawers , pop those goodies in and job complete. I have finishers come in after completed install.
This is working great for me but I know everyone's needs are different.

EDIT> for topic split

 

[Michael Kellough]

Sancho,  I wouldn't get rid of table saw....last year I changed my method of cabinet making. I used to build all boxes in shop,then they'd sit in the way until install,then I'd load a mound of carcasses in trailer or multiple trip in truck & unload boxes which had to be carefully maneuvered through hallways,doorways,stairways,etc.
Then I tried building completely on site (with festools system) but  there are many problems with that. Mainly finding space large enough to work in and storing large amounts of material & security. Every job seemed to have different circumstances that  prevented that method of working smoothly.
So....today's method
In my small shop with mainly table saw& router table I do all ripping of sheet goods to depth of cabinets. Lowers & uppers. Edgeband 8' rips if needed.Then cross cut  all walls because those are usually all typical . Next I cross cut bottoms,dust rails & top cleats ..leaving them long to cut on site. Rip toe kick,cleats ,back heights or whatever ripping needs are to minimize cutting at project. Then bundle individual cab parts flat & label. Stacking them requires little space,easy to transport with no need for trailer, easy to unload and into site.  This is where the beauty of the festool system thrives, minimal space at job site is required,usually set up in room of install. Basically just cross cutting manageable pieces on mft and assembling . I order doors and drawers , pop those goodies in and job complete. I have finishers come in after completed install.
This is working great for me but I know everyone's needs are different.

Guilliaume,

This is a very interesting procedure but I don't quite get it. Could you elaborate on  the middle section? What kind of boxes do you assemble and what kind of fasteners do you use? I guess they are European style, I see no mention of face frames.

 

[Guilliaume woodworks]

Sancho,  I wouldn't get rid of table saw....last year I changed my method of cabinet making. I used to build all boxes in shop,then they'd sit in the way until install,then I'd load a mound of carcasses in trailer or multiple trip in truck & unload boxes which had to be carefully maneuvered through hallways,doorways,stairways,etc.
Then I tried building completely on site (with festools system) but  there are many problems with that. Mainly finding space large enough to work in and storing large amounts of material & security. Every job seemed to have different circumstances that  prevented that method of working smoothly.
So....today's method
In my small shop with mainly table saw& router table I do all ripping of sheet goods to depth of cabinets. Lowers & uppers. Edgeband 8' rips if needed.Then cross cut  all walls because those are usually all typical . Next I cross cut bottoms,dust rails & top cleats ..leaving them long to cut on site. Rip toe kick,cleats ,back heights or whatever ripping needs are to minimize cutting at project. Then bundle individual cab parts flat & label. Stacking them requires little space,easy to transport with no need for trailer, easy to unload and into site.  This is where the beauty of the festool system thrives, minimal space at job site is required,usually set up in room of install. Basically just cross cutting manageable pieces on mft and assembling . I order doors and drawers , pop those goodies in and job complete. I have finishers come in after completed install.
This is working great for me but I know everyone's needs are different.

Guilliaume,

This is a very interesting procedure but I don't quite get it. Could you elaborate on  the middle section? What kind of boxes do you assemble and what kind of fasteners do you use? I guess they are European style, I see no mention of face frames.

hi Michael ..a few years ago I generally only built face frame cabinetry,not really sure why but now euro style is pretty standard. Been working with designers who like very contemporary full overlay look. I have used this procedure with f.f. cabs. It's not much different as I always build my f.f.'s  first then build carcass to fit them. I build face frames in shop ,then back to procedure described above. As far as joinery for f.f.'s I use pocket holes,simple ,fast and effective .boxes I also use pocket holes to join to f.f.'s if possible.if its visible then dominos . Euro cabs I generally just end screw butt joints because end panels and such hide fasteners. I only use 3/4 pre-fin birch for carcass material  with 1/2 backs . Hope I answered questions.. Thanks. David GUIlliaume

 

[Michael Kellough]

Thanks David. It really makes a lot of sense to work that way.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I'm bumping this so others will read. I think this is an efficient approach and wonder if others are working like this.

 

[rmwarren]

Sancho,  I wouldn't get rid of table saw....last year I changed my method of cabinet making. I used to build all boxes in shop,then they'd sit in the way until install,then I'd load a mound of carcasses in trailer or multiple trip in truck & unload boxes which had to be carefully maneuvered through hallways,doorways,stairways,etc.
Then I tried building completely on site (with festools system) but  there are many problems with that. Mainly finding space large enough to work in and storing large amounts of material & security. Every job seemed to have different circumstances that  prevented that method of working smoothly.
So....today's method
In my small shop with mainly table saw& router table I do all ripping of sheet goods to depth of cabinets. Lowers & uppers. Edgeband 8' rips if needed.Then cross cut  all walls because those are usually all typical . Next I cross cut bottoms,dust rails & top cleats ..leaving them long to cut on site. Rip toe kick,cleats ,back heights or whatever ripping needs are to minimize cutting at project. Then bundle individual cab parts flat & label. Stacking them requires little space,easy to transport with no need for trailer, easy to unload and into site.  This is where the beauty of the festool system thrives, minimal space at job site is required,usually set up in room of install. Basically just cross cutting manageable pieces on mft and assembling . I order doors and drawers , pop those goodies in and job complete. I have finishers come in after completed install.
This is working great for me but I know everyone's needs are different.

Guilliaume,

This is a very interesting procedure but I don't quite get it. Could you elaborate on  the middle section? What kind of boxes do you assemble and what kind of fasteners do you use? I guess they are European style, I see no mention of face frames.

hi Michael ..a few years ago I generally only built face frame cabinetry,not really sure why but now euro style is pretty standard. Been working with designers who like very contemporary full overlay look. I have used this procedure with f.f. cabs. It's not much different as I always build my f.f.'s  first then build carcass to fit them. I build face frames in shop ,then back to procedure described above. As far as joinery for f.f.'s I use pocket holes,simple ,fast and effective .boxes I also use pocket holes to join to f.f.'s if possible.if its visible then dominos . Euro cabs I generally just end screw butt joints because end panels and such hide fasteners. I only use 3/4 pre-fin birch for carcass material  with 1/2 backs . Hope I answered questions.. Thanks. David GUIlliaume

David, do you use 1/2 on upper cabinets and forego mounting strips? Can you just screw the 1/2" onto the 3/4" from the back rather than dado it and then hang the cabinet with screws thru the 1/2"?

Thanks,

RMW

EDIT: - Whups - I see above that you refer to cutting cleats on site.

 

[fshanno]

I like your method.  Thought about it a lot.  I've been forced to do it several times because a big case for a fridge or pantry can't be stood up or won't go through the door.  Had to assemble a corner oven unit practically in place.

Have you considered or priced sourcing the case parts as well?  You can get prefinished ply, even domestic, anything really.  For a price of course.

Do you have some sort of assembly table?  I like a low rise flat surface about 24" high.  Maybe a sheet of ply on low horses.

 

[sancho57]

David,

It makes sense to edge band and cut all the ply to width then cross cut to length on site using the MFT/ TS 55.  It makes sense and would be easier to spray the cab parts in larger pieces then individual pieces and cut it to length .

Good idea and thanks for sharing.

 

[Guilliaume woodworks]

Sancho,  I wouldn't get rid of table saw....last year I changed my method of cabinet making. I used to build all boxes in shop,then they'd sit in the way until install,then I'd load a mound of carcasses in trailer or multiple trip in truck & unload boxes which had to be carefully maneuvered through hallways,doorways,stairways,etc.
Then I tried building completely on site (with festools system) but  there are many problems with that. Mainly finding space large enough to work in and storing large amounts of material & security. Every job seemed to have different circumstances that  prevented that method of working smoothly.
So....today's method
In my small shop with mainly table saw& router table I do all ripping of sheet goods to depth of cabinets. Lowers & uppers. Edgeband 8' rips if needed.Then cross cut  all walls because those are usually all typical . Next I cross cut bottoms,dust rails & top cleats ..leaving them long to cut on site. Rip toe kick,cleats ,back heights or whatever ripping needs are to minimize cutting at project. Then bundle individual cab parts flat & label. Stacking them requires little space,easy to transport with no need for trailer, easy to unload and into site.  This is where the beauty of the festool system thrives, minimal space at job site is required,usually set up in room of install. Basically just cross cutting manageable pieces on mft and assembling . I order doors and drawers , pop those goodies in and job complete. I have finishers come in after completed install.
This is working great for me but I know everyone's needs are different.

Guilliaume,

This is a very interesting procedure but I don't quite get it. Could you elaborate on  the middle section? What kind of boxes do you assemble and what kind of fasteners do you use? I guess they are European style, I see no mention of face frames.

hi Michael ..a few years ago I generally only built face frame cabinetry,not really sure why but now euro style is pretty standard. Been working with designers who like very contemporary full overlay look. I have used this procedure with f.f. cabs. It's not much different as I always build my f.f.'s  first then build carcass to fit them. I build face frames in shop ,then back to procedure described above. As far as joinery for f.f.'s I use pocket holes,simple ,fast and effective .boxes I also use pocket holes to join to f.f.'s if possible.if its visible then dominos . Euro cabs I generally just end screw butt joints because end panels and such hide fasteners. I only use 3/4 pre-fin birch for carcass material  with 1/2 backs . Hope I answered questions.. Thanks. David GUIlliaume

David, do you use 1/2 on upper cabinets and forego mounting strips? Can you just screw the 1/2" onto the 3/4" from the back rather than dado it and then hang the cabinet with screws thru the 1/2"?

Thanks,

RMW

EDIT: - Whups - I see above that you refer to cutting cleats on site.

I pretty much use only pre finished birch ply for interiors and yes I use half inch backs to eliminate cleats