simple bookcase - need advice

[gxgn]

Hello I need your advice how to build a bookcase with thr following characteristics:
- dimensions: 84"H x 48" W x 11"D
- the final producg will be painted white
- most likely it will end up being full of books, some quite heavy hardcover type
- From my point of view I don't  eed a back but I assume it's needed for structure
- I would lime to minimize the vertical elements if possible
- the tools I have: domino, of1400 router, 55req stracksaw with rails, drill, hand planes and solid workbench, 150/3 sander, chiesels, dozuko hand saw, chop saw

I never applied edge band with an iron but if plywood is the only way to go I'll learn. Maybe making a face frame would solve this.

1. Can I use the typical $49 8x4' 3/4" plywood sold by Lowes or should I spring for the $110+ type sold by other stores with better veneer and less voids between plys?
2. Do you have some designs in mind you can share?
3. Should I consider making it of solid wood, maybe 5/4 oak?
4. A friend recommended MDO butI cannot find anywhere around me.
5. Would yoh route dados in the vertical elements or use the domino?
6. How would you finish it, what paint and primer would you use for white?

Thank you,
george

 

[tiralie]

1. Can I use the typical $49 8x4' 3/4" plywood sold by Lowes

You could, but you may not like the results. Make all your mistakes on this material and then remake your bookcase with better stock. 

or should I spring for the $110+ type sold by other stores with better veneer and less voids between plys?

Yes, it's a better choice but mistakes can add up.

2. Do you have some designs in mind you can share?

Check out 3D Warehouse or get an online membership to Fine Homebuilding and/or Fine woodworking. There are lots of plans and directions there.

3. Should I consider making it of solid wood, maybe 5/4 oak?

you could, but it's more expensive and you will have to joint and plane so more work.

4. A friend recommended MDO butI cannot find anywhere around me.

Most lumber yards that sell to contractors stock MDO in 3/4" it's not uncommon.

5. Would yoh route dados in the vertical elements or use the domino?

Domino's are fine.

6. How would you finish it, what paint and primer would you use for white?

Search the fourm or check out the Finishing section and you will find a lot of suggestions.

Good luck.
Tim

 

[gxgn]

Thank you Tim, maybe with the 3d pkans I finally learn sketcup by modifying an existing plans. I tried starting from scratch and got stuck at a basic function, rotating an object.

 

[gkaiseril]

No matter what material you use with heavy books you might want to check to see what the sagging of the shelves would be under load for you span.

The Sagulator

An edging strip might help prevent sag or one could add a support strip in the center on the bottom of the shelf.

The $50 plywood at big box stores is most likely BC grade and would have knot holes on one side and voids in the inner plys. Good for underlayment and quick and dirty projects but not for good finishes. As noted use it to build a full size model and test it. The work with a better grade like AB or prefinished.

 

[Brice Burrell]

I'm not the biggest fan of the plywood at Lowes.  Homedepot on the other hand has better plywood, the purebond plywood by Columbia.  I'd also recommend talking to someone at the pro desk at Homedepot about special ordering pre-finished or pre-primed sheets (and lots of other choices too).  Check out this pdf about special ordering from the depot.  At $50 a sheet I think the pruebond is probably the best value in plywood out there now. 

 

[grbmds]

With a 48" width some reinforcement of the shelves is needed. I'm not an expert, but I do remember at least one very good article in one of the woodworking magazines a number of years ago. I'd try Fine Woodworking online first, then possibly WW Journal. I don't know what Popular Woodworking has available online. Also Wood and American Woodworker's sites sometimes have good assistance. Without doing vertical supports, there are other ways to reinforce shelves, including using solid wood edging on the front of each shelf to help distribute the weight. Again, I'm not an expert, but it's worth doing the homework first when the shelves are 48" long.

 

[sae]

I'm not the biggest fan of the plywood at Lowes.  Homedepot on the other hand has better plywood, the purebond plywood by Columbia.  I'd also recommend talking to someone at the pro desk at Homedepot about special ordering pre-finished or pre-primed sheets (and lots of other choices too).  Check out this pdf about special ordering from the depot.  At $50 a sheet I think the pruebond is probably the best value in plywood out there now.

Huh. I had the opposite reaction, I looked at both and thought the Lowe's offering (off the shelf, not custom ordered) was much better. Both at the $50 mark for 3/4":

Lowes:

HD:

The HD sheet has a really really thin veneer sheet, and the intermediate plies are some sort of compressed wood. But maybe more dimensionally stable and less voids? I think number of plies is the same (the Lowe's pic is doubled up). I haven't used it yet, sort of got thrown into the backup pile after I found what I believed to be a nicer sheet at Lowe's.

I'm also local to you, Brice, so we can compare notes, but the the sheet from HD was from the Cranberry Twp HD, and the Lowe's was from McCandless Crossing.

 

[charley1968]

Is it going to be freestanding or are you building into a niche?
I wouldn't use oak if i was going to paint it white. But you could paint it white and give it a face-frame.
The shelving needs to be supported. I'd probably use a dadoed 'beam'on the back of the shelving. A backing would be looking better and add stability, almost a must with a freestanding shelf.
My 2 öre.
Best regards A.
Don't forget to mark your pieces!

 

[tiralie]

Thank you Tim, maybe with the 3d pkans I finally learn sketcup by modifying an existing plans. I tried starting from scratch and got stuck at a basic function, rotating an object.

Learning to use Sketchup at least to take apart drawings and reassemble or modify/add to them to build your project will definitely help you gain more confidence when you actually start cutting wood.
Gary Katz has a nice tutorial video on building a bookcase.
Tim

 

[mouppe]

48" wide shelves full of heavy books...I'd go solid hardwood at least 3/4" thick. 1" if you don't want them to possibly sag over time. Oak would be nice and cheaper than other hardwoods. The link below suggests 3/4" red oak is maxed out at 44" and 3/4" plywood requires 2 1 1/2" support cleats.

And not dominoed into the sides- too weak. Housing dadoes are the traditional joint for bookshelves. If you really want to go to town, go for wedged-through tenons but it's a lot more work and not worth it if you are going to paint the piece.

11" deep is average. If the shelves are too deep, it can make getting books off the higher shelves difficult.

A back will help keep the whole piece stable and prevent racking. Nail or screw it into a rebate. It will also help conceal a non-straight wall.

Milk paint is a nice finish for wood. No primer needed. Dead easy to apply. After a couple of coats add an oil finish.

Here is some good info on loads and shelf thickness requirements.

http://www.woodbin.com/ref/furniture/shelves.htm