Sketchup

[CarolinaNomad]

Heres a couple of websites thats helped me:

http://www.srww.com/sketchup/cut-list-ruby-script.html

Cutlist Tutorial - https://code.google.com/p/cutlist/wiki/Tutorials

Sketchup for Woodworker Forum - http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f29/free-beginners-sketchup-tutorial-video-series-21310/

 

[Wooden Skye]

I just want to thank people for some of the resources you have provided.  I am getting better the more I use.  I do have another question, how do you cut or drill out a hole?  Example, if you were doing a workbench, and wanted to add dog holes, how do you do it so you could actually see through to the hypothetical bottom/floor.

 

[CarolinaNomad]

I just want to thank people for some of the resources you have provided.  I am getting better the more I use.  I do have another question, how do you cut or drill out a hole?  Example, if you were doing a workbench, and wanted to add dog holes, how do you do it so you could actually see through to the hypothetical bottom/floor.

Draw a circle and use the push/pull command. Push thru the circle all the way threw

 

[Wooden Skye]

Carolinanomad

Thanks

 

[rrmccabe]

  It was at sketchupforwoodworkers.com. 

I watched those videos two weeks ago and Sketchup instantly clicked.  I feel pretty competent with it now only after two weeks of use and those videos.

I have been using AutoCAD for 25 years but never jumped into 3D.

Sketchup rocks.

I have Pro but really are not using any of the Pro Features.  The free is great for 90% of everything a woodworker would do.

 

[RC]

A quick note on the hole drilling advice that the mistake I and probably every other Sketchup user does is to forget to go into the group/component and just draw a circle to extrude away on the outside of a component. This will not work and you end up with an extrusion that doesn't work logically and vanish when set to zero depth.

So always remember to double click the component or group open before you try extruding holes in them.

Another trick is to make guide points/lines with the measuring tool to position the corner or centre of the hole you want to make since to get alignment repeatable and known. I.e. You want a rabet in the middle of a drawer side for the rail you can't tell sketchup to start the square you are trying to extrude away to extend 20mm on both sides of the object centre. You will have to calculate the end distance to one corner of the rectangle and then draw the rectangle from the guide lines and faces intersection point.

If anyone has an quick way of making domino joints in sketchup I'd like to hear about it. Using the domino model from the warehouse is hellishly slow or then I'm doing something wrong...

 

[Brice Burrell]

....If anyone has an quick way of making domino joints in sketchup I'd like to hear about it. Using the domino model from the warehouse is hellishly slow or then I'm doing something wrong...

Are you using the model of the tenon?  Why not make a Domino (half) mortise component and add them where needed.

 

[RC]

Yes, I use the tenon model, extract it out of the component once per part and then paste a tenon model into the resultant void. I'll have to look into making a half size hole template. Thanks!

 

[fritter63]

Yes, I use the tennon model, extract it out of the component once per part and the paste a tennon model into the resultant void. I'll have to look into making a half size hole template. Thanks!

I just draw everything as butt joints now then use the domino....

 

[sw1211]

I saw this DVD on Hartville's site, might be worth a look.  There aren't any reviews and I have no clue if it's any good, just passing along the info.

 

[Kristian]

The guy who wrote the Dummies book has pretty good YouTube videos you should check out.

RMW

Richard is right, this guy has some good videos. His book is also worth checking.

 

[Wooden Skye]

I think I know the answer to this question, but I am going to ask.  You draw a face with the rectangle tool to make a cabinet side, and then you want to do the thickness of the side, so I have used the push/pull tool.  When using the push/pull tool to make the thickness from plywood, do you use 23/32 or 3/4 during your design of the sketchup model? 

 

[tiralie]

what ever thickness you want. select the surface with the push pull tool, push up and then enter the fraction or number in the dialog box in the bottom right of the screen and push the enter button. Couldn't be easier really.
Tim

 

[Wooden Skye]

Tim

The more i learn, I know that it us easy to use this tool.  What I have been doing is pulling or pushing to 3/4, but plywood measures 23/32, so it is conceivable that when you take the drawing to the shop, there will be minor differences.  Because you can put in any measurement I was more curious if people are using 23/32 or 3/4.

 

[nclemmons]

I use sketchup on every project. 

I use 3/4 largely because I am using it to sketch a project, not create absolute final dimensions. 

I still cut to fit, rather than cut to the plan.  Invariably, through sanding, planing, etc, you'll always end up with some variation.

It takes some time, but once you get the idea, it's a quick way to explore alternatives and improve your work.

neil

 

[Brice Burrell]

Tim

The more i learn, I know that it us easy to use this tool.  What I have been doing is pulling or pushing to 3/4, but plywood measures 23/32, so it is conceivable that when you take the drawing to the shop, there will be minor differences.  Because you can put in any measurement I was more curious if people are using 23/32 or 3/4.

Well, now you're getting to the next step, going Metric. [tongue] 

 

[Kristian]

+1 on Metric!  [wink]

 

[tiralie]

The more i learn, I know that it us easy to use this tool.  What I have been doing is pulling or pushing to 3/4, but plywood measures 23/32, so it is conceivable that when you take the drawing to the shop, there will be minor differences.  Because you can put in any measurement I was more curious if people are using 23/32 or 3/4.

Sorry I misunderstood.

I use sketchup on every project. 
I use 3/4 largely because I am using it to sketch a project, not create absolute final dimensions. 
I still cut to fit, rather than cut to the plan.  Invariably, through sanding, planing, etc, you'll always end up with some variation.
It takes some time, but once you get the idea, it's a quick way to explore alternatives and improve your work.

Totally agree with Neil here.
While there are exceptions (32mm system), I set my Sketchup preferences to 1/8" so I don't have to deal with 16ths and 32nds. Drives me nuts and I make errors +/- of that much anyway.

Well, now you're getting to the next step, going Metric. [tongue] 

I wish. I like it better. While we (Canada) has converted/standardized to metric, the amount of material still supplied in imperial sizes just increases the complexity.

Tim

 

[CarolinaNomad]

I wish. I like it better. While we (Canada) has converted/standardized to metric, the amount of material still supplied in imperial sizes just increases the complexity.

Tim
[/quote]

As I stand on my soap box, Canada! pick a freakin system and be done with this madness!!!!

Jeff

 

[rmwarren]

As I stand on my soap box, Canada! pick a freakin system and be done with this madness!!!!

Jeff

Or you could just take the US approach, i.e. stick your head in the sand and ignore the rest of the world. May as well go back to furlongs, rods and cubits...

I do try desperately to work in metric, but I still find myself pausing to think "hmmnnn, lemme see... 4" is 101.6mm...." before setting the guide for the saw to 100mm. Can't seem to visualize/conceptualize in metric.

When doing computer design work I work in metric however, it is just easier to work in base-10.

RMW