Small shop - New MFT Fence

[Halmccoyii]

I have a very small shop. Last year I made some modifications to my MFT3.  To reduce the space behind my table I replaced the hinge mechanism on the guiderail.  It has been a huge success.  I also bought an extra Festool fence clamp so I could move the fence farther back on my table.  It seemed to work until recently I had some cuts which were not consistent with the flip stop.  I noticed the fence slipped in the fence clamps.  I could not make them any tighter.  I also had a slight amount of give in them front to back causing the cuts to not be square.  I have decided they are not stable enough to use in the future.  I have seen multiple members with solutions to move the fence back.  I decided to create a different option and it has worked very well.  I thought I would share it. 

Using some off cut birch plywood I built two support pieces to attach to rear extrusion, and then attach the fence.  It is made of three pieces each.  It is far from pretty but I built it with what I had to see if it was stable and met my needs.  I was planning on rebuilding with something that looked better but it works so well I may not. 

I cut all the pieces down from three scraps I had.  I was careful to make cut each layer from a single piece so they would be as close as possible to the same thickness.  The first two back pieces were originally glued together as they provided support and from there I rested a small piece on the table and then glued it so it matched the table height.  I did route a small rabbet on the second piece so the it also provided a bit of support. 

I sanded down a couple of machine screws that would fit into the slot of the Festool guide.  (It would be nice to someone new of a TBolt that fit.)  The fence is attached to the support with one machine screw with a nob and the support has 2 bolts attaching it to the table. 

It is completely solid and is easy to take on and off.  It cost me about $10 because I bought the knobs.  I had originally tried to figure out pieces from 8020 that might work but was unable to without some custom cutting.  This may be better made out of Baltic birch or MDF but this is what I had to work with at the time.  I will watch to see if it gets any less stable but so far so good. 

I am open to any comments, suggestions or watch outs. 

Original post on Hinge and Festool clamps.http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/mft-3-ideas-for-small-shop/

I hope the new pics make sense.

Hal II

 

[Gregor]

One screw into the T-slot should be enough though, as it rests (and aligns horizontally) on the V-groove.
I would also use shorter screws into the T-slot, to cut down the possibility of accidents.

Apart from that: Simple but effective solution, I like it.

 

[Halmccoyii]

I do think you are right about the one screw.  At the time I built it I thought it would help keep any pressure off the piece attached to the fence and sitting on the table. It’s definitely overbuilt. 

I did not have any shorter TBolts, actually those are carriage screws that I had that I filed down.  I am going to get some shorter ones.  I also am afraid they will get caught on something.

It is solid for sure though. It’s too bad I wasted the $40+ on the fence clamp. I would not recommend anyone use it for that purpose.

Thanks for the comment.

 

[Peter_C]

I did not have any shorter TBolts, actually those are carriage screws that I had that I filed down.  I am going to get some shorter ones.  I also am afraid they will get caught on something.

Toilet bolts happen to work perfect, and it is easy in the USA to find 1/4-20 thumb wheels. The toilet bolts also need to be cut down as they are super long. 3" grinder makes cutting bolts super easy.

I use maple cut to fit the V of the MFT, when making bolt on accessories. Easy enough to make even on an MFT, meaning not using a table saw. This could possibly help cut down on front to rear movement, for anyone building something similar going forward. Minor change over the OP's design. I probably should make something similar myself for the fence. Now how to make it fine tune adjustable?
[attachimg=1]
^Had planned on remaking this shelf as it was an engineering feat in and of itself to fit everything into the TS55 Systainer, and I wasn't sure it would even work, but probably never will rebuild it as it functions perfectly.
[attachimg=2]

 

[Deanuk]

I have a very small shop. Last year I made some modifications to my MFT3.  To reduce the space behind my table I replaced the hinge mechanism on the guiderail.  It has been a huge success.  I also bought an extra Festool fence clamp so I could move the fence farther back on my table.  It seemed to work until recently I had some cuts which were not consistent with the flip stop.  I noticed the fence slipped in the fence clamps.  I could not make them any tighter.  I also had a slight amount of give in them front to back causing the cuts to not be square.  I have decided they are not stable enough to use in the future.  I have seen multiple members with solutions to move the fence back.  I decided to create a different option and it has worked very well.  I thought I would share it. 

Using some off cut birch plywood I built two support pieces to attach to rear extrusion, and then attach the fence.  It is made of three pieces each.  It is far from pretty but I built it with what I had to see if it was stable and met my needs.  I was planning on rebuilding with something that looked better but it works so well I may not. 

I cut all the pieces down from three scraps I had.  I was careful to make cut each layer from a single piece so they would be as close as possible to the same thickness.  The first two back pieces were originally glued together as they provided support and from there I rested a small piece on the table and then glued it so it matched the table height.  I did route a small rabbet on the second piece so the it also provided a bit of support. 

I sanded down a couple of machine screws that would fit into the slot of the Festool guide.  (It would be nice to someone new of a TBolt that fit.)  The fence is attached to the support with one machine screw with a nob and the support has 2 bolts attaching it to the table. 

It is completely solid and is easy to take on and off.  It cost me about $10 because I bought the knobs.  I had originally tried to figure out pieces from 8020 that might work but was unable to without some custom cutting.  This may be better made out of Baltic birch or MDF but this is what I had to work with at the time.  I will watch to see if it gets any less stable but so far so good. 

I am open to any comments, suggestions or watch outs. 

Original post on Hinge and Festool clamps.http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/mft-3-ideas-for-small-shop/

I hope the new pics make sense.

Hal II

Hi,
With your first photo of using the black fence adapters how did you find it with squaring up with the holes?
I can't for the life of me get the fence square with the holes at the same time, it's almost like my table is not square with the rails

 

[Halmccoyii]

Sorry I just saw this post. 

Not sure if I understand completely but when I originally modified the table and used the Festool rail supports it was not stable. Since I made back supports from the plywood it has been rock solid. I have not changed them out even though they could look better.
All I changed was to get some shorter T Bolts and grind one set down that connect to the Festool guide fence so it can slide in easier.  I never take off the supports from the table now. 

I double checked it yesterday when working on a project and it was as square as I can measure it to the table and holes. 

I did make sure all of the support was against the slots in the side of the table and nothing In the V grove that could keep it from being hard against the table.

Do you have any pictures?