Smoke coming out of my TXS Drill!

[David2T370]

A few days ago I was using my TXS and noticed a rather strong electrical smell coming from it.  Then I saw smoke coming out of the little vents at the rear of the motor.  Does this motor have brushes?  Is it more cost effective to replace the drill or send it off to Festool to get an overhaul?  If it is more advantageous to replace it, is it possible to just buy the drill without the systainer, batteries, charger and other attachments?  I don't need to double up on any of that.

Thanks,
David

 

[Dr. P. Venkman]

If it is more advantageous to replace it, is it possible to just buy the drill without the systainer, batteries, charger and other attachments?  I don't need to double up on any of that.

Unfortunately, no. The TXS and CXS are the only cordless tools for which they don’t offer a kit without the batteries. And hardly anything is available without a systainer.

I’ve not fully understood that on the TXS and CXS. The batteries are specific to those drills, so you have to get at least one set, but I would have guessed that offering them without the batteries (and preferably the systainer) would convince TXS/CXS owners to buy the other also (or a second of the one they have). But most wouldn’t need four batteries, even with two drills.

 

[squall_line]

A few days ago I was using my TXS and noticed a rather strong electrical smell coming from it.  Then I saw smoke coming out of the little vents at the rear of the motor.  Does this motor have brushes?

Yes, it is a brushed motor.

As far as replacing it if the brushes aren't the issue, your best bet is a used drill.  You can occasionally find them either without the extra parts or with bad batteries (not typical), or with the older stick-and-base batteries.  Or wait for a TXS to come up on the Recon site; they sometimes have the non-Set version for sale, which only omits the right angle head.  Between the right angle head delete and the 20-25% Recon discount (and the attendant one year warranty), the price comes down quite a bit.

 

[AlexThePalex]

A new motor for the TXS costs only $46,91 ex VAT, so that's the least expensive option. If you know how a screwdriver works, you can replace the motor yourself.

 

[squall_line]

A new motor for the TXS costs only $46,91 ex VAT, so that's the least expensive option. If you know how a screwdriver works, you can replace the motor yourself.

In our throwaway society, I often forget about EKAT as an option for self-repairing tools, especially since I tend to use it just for diagrams.  Thank you for the reminder!

 

[David2T370]

Thanks for all of the information!  I think my best option here is to replace the motor.

 

[Sci]

I am always surprised at the low cost of festool replacement parts.  I needed a new top for a ct26.  I expected at least $100.  If I recall it was about $40 or $50.

 

[builderbob]

I replaced the motor in my TXS. It was the best option and super easy to do. Good luck!

 

[Spandex]

Doesn’t the motor replacement process involve soldering? I vaguely remember that when I replaced my old CXS motor. Not that it was difficult, just mentioning it in case that’s an issue for anyone thinking of doing it.

 

[Stone Message]

A new motor for the TXS costs only $46,91 ex VAT, so that's the least expensive option. If you know how a screwdriver works, you can replace the motor yourself.

[member=5277]Alex[/member]  is right - one of my CXS/TXS machines had this issue and a motor replacement (with brushes) is the easy and cheapest option.

I am still a 100% fan of these small drill drivers.

Peter

 

[BobS_50]

Hi
I came up against this same issue and followed the advice and bought a new motor...two questions though anyone have any guidance on the following;-

i)  the alignment of the settings mechanism ie low torque lower number (I didn't record how it was originally housed [sad])

ii) how do you remove the motor from front section - is it just a push fit ?

Thanks in advance

 

[pixelated]

BTDT

It’s been a while since I had mine apart, I think the collar for the clutch only fits in one position.
Yes the motor just pushes into the clutch.
(as i recall)

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Does anyone have a theory as to why this would happen? or why simply replacing the motor would fix it?
"Letting the smoke out" is usually a death sentence, but for me it has always seemed to be a circuit board. Speed controller? then it cascades down from there. Maybe the motor is in fact dead, but is that all? How many parts replacements do you do, while searching? Damage something while getting the cart before the horse?
Sending it in will give you a clear cost, you can decide if it is worth that.

 

[woodferret]

Probably flashover


Because the CXS/TXS are such small drills, there's not a lot of air movement.  The dirt/carbon debris build up between the commutator segments can cause it to start arcing between those gaps.