So, how bad have I screwed up?

woodnerd

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Joined
Aug 18, 2010
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91
Well, I pulled a real bonehead maneuver last night.  I used my TS55 to gang-cut two sheets of plywood, so I ran the blade down quite a bit.  Then, when I put it back onto my MFT/3, I forgot to put it back up.  Yep, you guessed it, I cut completely through the top, even slicing into the side rail a bit.

So, the question is:  How badly have I compromised the integrity of the MFT?  Will it still hold square?  Or should I replace the top?

Second question:  What about the blade?  I chopped into the side rail about 3/4".  I think it's ok, but ...
 
woodnerd said:
...
So, the question is:  How badly have I compromised the integrity of the MFT?  Will it still hold square?  Or should I replace the top?

Second question:  What about the blade?  I chopped into the side rail about 3/4".  I think it's ok, but ...

Uhm, it looks like you are now the best person to answer your own questions, as you are likely the first to screw up this bad.  [eek]

So, we will expect a report back with the answers to your questions just in case... 

 
Come on, you know the drill...pictures please!

I would probably replace the top (before the March increase) and use the old one for a sacrificial top, or a vacuum press platten or something like that.

Was the top relatively new?
 
Oh this has been done many times by members here!
No damage at all to the blade as you just found out carbide cuts aluminum with no problem!!!!
The top depends upon the length of the cut.
 
Heck, stuff happens.  If I had done that, here is what I would do if I wasn't in the mood to buy a new top.

I would get a piece of plastic wrap and cover a 1 x X that was 2 inches wider than the cut and that extended the full length of the cut.  I would then spray that with non-stick cooking spray.  I would spray the area area where the cut in the top met an rails with the cooking spray.  Then I would screw that the underside of the mft table.  Mix up some epoxy and pour to cut.  Let cure, then remove the stuff from the underside.  Unless you stand on your table you should be fine.

Peter
 
You could put tape under the cut in the top and fill it with Bondo.  Well, you could.

The side would be tricker.  If the kerf in the top can't close, it seems like it would help hold the side from bending.  I don't know, but do the guide-rail connectors fit in the track on the MFT?  If so, put them across the cut.
 
the mft joining bars would also help hold it.
the top isnt an issue, i would dowel( so no metal for future accidants) a 1/2 " ply piece under the cut and across the two parts and full with epoxy or similar
pics please
 
Plus one on the sage advice above.

If the top is sliced completely through, I would be wary of rejoining the two pieces, just in terms of keeping the holes square and equally spaced, e.g. for qwas dog squaring.  If that's not a concern, Domino the sucker together and fill with epoxy.

If you do go for a new top, definitely save the old one.  They are great for making jigs - imagine Festool clamping flexibility on your custom jig! [big grin]

As long as the 3/4 inch cut in the aluminum side doesn't interfere with anything, I don't think its a structural problem.  I routed a chunk out of mine (on purpose, really!) to make a horizontal routing jig, per Jerry Work's manual, and its totally stable.  If it bugs you, I'm sure Festool will sell you a replacement part (and again keep the old one for jigs!!).

Bottom line, barely screwed at all.  [laughing] ;)
 
Oh Brice!! Where are you?   ???
Awaiting your comment on this.    [embarassed]  [scared]
(he loves to "throw me under the bus" on this topic)
 
Did the same thing only with a TS75. I had been cutting the end off of a 4"+ laminated maple bench top and had the blade set to the full depth. I cleaned off the dust and put it safely back into it's systainer. The very next day I needed to cut some ply on the MFT......took out a good chunk of the side rail. I couldn't believe how stupid I was and called the next day to order a replacement rail. That was about four months ago and I'm still cutting on the two piece top and heavily cut rail, but I have a replacement rail if I ever decide I need to change it. Needless to say I no longer bother to put sacrificial foam board down on the MFT.... Think of this as a freeing experience.
Don't sweat the small stuff!
Brian
 
After a good period of self-browbeating, I took another look at the MFT.  I really only cut into the rail about 1/4" so it seems fine.  In messing with table itself, it seems stable and not at all less solid.  I can, however, see how clamping a long part to the top might lever-up the unfastened end.  So I'll probably order a new top and keep it on hand in case it does turn out to be an issue.  After getting used to working with the MFT, I don't want to go any length of time without it.
 
PeterK said:
Oh Brice!! Where are you?   ???
Awaiting your comment on this.    [embarassed]  [scared]
(he loves to "throw me under the bus" on this topic)

Funny you mention this.  I replied with comments busting your chops but decided to delete that post.  I like to joke as much as the next guy but a certain point it's not funny any more-I didn't want to cross that line. 
 
Hey I can take it!!  [big grin]
The story for others---
I was at the cabinet class in Lebanon last February. Was showing my partner how to adjust and use the TS55. Forgot to mention about checking cut depth when switching thickness of lumber being cut. Christian was really impressed with how we cut through the MFT3 front rail about half depth and part of the top!!!  [eek] :o :-\ :'( >:( [doh] [oops]

Not sure if someone got a recon table at 40% off!
Amazingly they let me return for the router class a couple months later. Several members here got to see the damage.
 
I wonder what happened to the video of the "OF2800" twin engine router that Shane took at the router class?  [blink]
 
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