Solid Wood Edgeband Trimming - MFK 700 or OF1010 for hobbyist

[Bugsysiegals]

I'm just a hobbyist who's going to make a ton of cabinets for his own house, perhaps others later, and needs to trim solid wood edge banding. 

I made a tall fence jig for the table saw in order to trim the edge banding close to flush followed by finishing with a hand plane but that removed some of the prefinished clear coat and I'm not sure I can spray over that and blend it.  I made a MDF jig which attaches to the bottom of my OF1400 to allow the bit to hover vertically over the top of the edge banding but the results weren't consistent.  I just found an idea on how to use the OF1400 to flush cut edge banding horizontally by using the MFT table which I'll try next but perhaps I'm better off buying a OF1010 or MFK700?

I have the LR32 system and read the OF1010 is easier to use than OF1400 with it.  The OF1010 is the cheaper route but I wonder if I should be getting the MFK700 since the OF1400 can already do what the OF1010 can do or whether the MFK700 is so limited that I'd be better of adding the OF1010 to my collection?

 

[ScotF]

Tough call...the 1010 is more versatile, but the MFK is made for trimming edge banding. You are limited to bit depth so 5/8 inch or thinner banding unless you modify the base to accept longer bits (threads on that here). The MFK is good for other trimming/profiling tasks too. If you have lots of banding to do, then I would opt for the MFK. The 1010 also has accessories to help with trimming banding that work really well - just not as quick to set up as the MFK.

 

[Bugsysiegals]

That's where I'm confused ... If the OF1400 can do everything the OF1010 can do with similar level of ease and same quality then perhaps I'm better off with the MFK 700 but if the OF1010 can do some things better than the OF1400 and trim edge banding as good as the MFK 700, then perhaps the OF1010 is the better route.  I never thought it would be this hard to decide between two tools.

 

[DynaGlide]

I'll help. Buy both. Problem solved.  [big grin]

I started with the 1400 and faced the same choice. I decided the only reason I'd want the 1010 is for the size and given I do a lot of iron on edge banding I went for the MFK. If just for solid wood the 1010 might be better, but if you're trying to protect the surface the 1.5 degree base on the MFK might win out.

 

[sprior]

First I got the OF1400 because it could handle 1/2" and 1/4" shank bits and could be used with the LR32 system though it's a bit more fussy to set up than the OF1010.  It's a great router.  Then I was doing a lot of edge banding (Fastcap peel and stick) so I bought the MFK700, but found that the sticky edge banding gummed that up and didn't work very well, so the MFK has been used rarely when I was doing solid wood edging.  I thought at that point I was done buying routers from Festool because I already had all the ones I needed.  Then the sneaky bastards came up with a promotion where you could trade in any old tool (even an old screwdriver) for a discount something new and I bought the OF1010 figuring it'll be nicer for the LR32 work which seems to be a big use case for me.

So if you don't need 1/2" bits I'd probably say go with the OF1010, you'll appreciate the smaller/lighter size of it.  If you're doing solid wood edging all day long then add the MFK700.  But what do I know I'm just a weekend hobbyist.  If you notice that my woodworking hobby seems to be mostly building workshop cabinets to hold my Festools I'm going to hurt you.  [big grin]

 

[tallgrass]

This kind of problem is common. The real question is "general solution vs focused solution" . I would tend to argue the general solution is the way to go until there is sufficient demand to warrant the focused solution. In this case the focused solution is the MFK. I love it. For what it is meant to do, it is fantastic. What it is not is a general purpose router. So I would argue that if you need a router for general router needs, get the router. Only after you are tired of dealing with the short comings of a general purpose router in a focused task would I look at the MFK. However I would not underestimate the value of the time gained by having the focused tool. This will give you more of the most valuable commodity that you have, TIME. The way I do this is that I give a value to my time. I give it a dollar value. Then I look at time saved. If the new tool will pay for itself in terms of my time/cost. I purchase it.  I also give my own enjoyment value. The right tools make projects more enjoyable,  which seems to allow me to get projects done sooner.

 

[sancho57]

I got the 2200 to use for 1/2 bits and the 1010 for 1/4 bits and the LR 32. It can do about everything the 700 can but ya gotta fuss with it a bit.

But then, you could get the 1400 for tble use and LR 32 and then get the 700 for edgeing trimming etc which it what it was designed for

 

[RKA]

Here is another option.  An accessory from Fastcap called the Lil Lipper.  There is a video on the FOG of a member using this with an OF1400.  And it's far cheaper than the accessories Festool sells to do essentially the same thing with the 1010 and 1400.  But, I would consider getting a small $100 trim router and using this accessory.  It's far easier to manage a small trim router in a horizontal orientation.  The only downside to using this accessory is virtually no dust extraction. 

The MFK700 is a little more versatile as long as you stay within it's depth limits with nearly perfect dust extraction.  But it's a lot more money as well. 

https://www.fastcap.com/product/little-lipper

 

[Peter_C]

 

[Cheese]

That's the reason for the 1 1/2º base on  the 700. It will trim the edgebanding at that angle so it avoids messing up the top surface.

 

[Bugsysiegals]

I read you want the 0 degree base if trimming solid hardwood edge banding and the 1.5 degree base for laminates ... is this not true?  If I don't need the 0 degree base for solid edge banded plywood for frameless kitchen cabinets, etc. that helps save some cost.

 

[grobkuschelig]

Hi there, I’m also a hobbyist only.

The OF1010 was my first Festool ever and it has served me well over the last 10-12years.

BUT I treated myself to an OFK700 lastly and have to say: I am in looooove!
For any of the normal edge stuff, roundovers, chamfers, dados, grooves etc. It is just phenomenal!
It is so easy and reliably to set up. I love the base options and accessories.
It is expensive, but man, is it worth it!

Especially if you have a 1400, I think you will be a little disappointed with the 1010. yes, it is lighter, but lacks a lot of features from the 1400.

Good luck with your choice.

 

[Cheese]

I read you want the 0 degree base if trimming solid hardwood edge banding and the 1.5 degree base for laminates ... is this not true?  If I don't need the 0 degree base for solid edge banded plywood for frameless kitchen cabinets, etc. that helps save some cost.

If you look at the Sedge video he's using the 1 1/2º base on edge banding that appears to be about 1/8" thick.

This is from a Festool routing catalog circa 2008:
"Edge routing using the 1.5° router table
For trimming edge strips on veneered surfaces and edge protrusions, an edge router with a 1.5° router table is the ideal choice. Here, the bore of the table holder is tilted by 1.5°; the router is correspondingly tilted 1.5° at the edge. This hardly visible technical advantage reliably avoids any cutting of the surface.
The 1.5° table is standard equipment with the Festool OFK 700 edge router."

 

[usernumber1]

i cut my teeth with 1010 and 7/8" thick poplar edges. the mfk can't even do that thick and with all the practice i got, thin stuff is a breeze now.

can you demo both units locally? i found using them in your own hands makes things pretty obvious

 

[RKA]

I read you want the 0 degree base if trimming solid hardwood edge banding and the 1.5 degree base for laminates ... is this not true?  If I don't need the 0 degree base for solid edge banded plywood for frameless kitchen cabinets, etc. that helps save some cost.

Generally true, but it depends.  Let's say you put a 5/8" solid edge band and used the 1.5 degree base.  You might see that slight chamfer on the top of the edge band, but when you join another panel up against your edgeband at 90 degrees, you will see a gap (less than half a mm for 12mm edgeband).

That's why the 0 degree base is offered.  With thin edgebanding, that gap shrinks.  Somewhere in between is the middle ground where you may decide a 0 degree base is better, but try without it first and see what you think.

 

[Bugsysiegals]

I read you want the 0 degree base if trimming solid hardwood edge banding and the 1.5 degree base for laminates ... is this not true?  If I don't need the 0 degree base for solid edge banded plywood for frameless kitchen cabinets, etc. that helps save some cost.

Generally true, but it depends.  Let's say you put a 5/8" solid edge band and used the 1.5 degree base.  You might see that slight chamfer on the top of the edge band, but when you join another panel up against your edgeband at 90 degrees, you will see a gap (less than half a mm for 12mm edgeband).

That's why the 0 degree base is offered.  With thin edgebanding, that gap shrinks.  Somewhere in between is the middle ground where you may decide a 0 degree base is better, but try without it first and see what you think.

Thanks for explanation, I can visualize this much better now, and understand one of the limitations with the 1.5 degree base ... I'd definitely want the 0 degree base if not designing full cabinet runs.

 

[sancho57]

Bugs,
then you would want the kit.

It comes with both bases. You will also want to order the edge guide. Its not included in the kit. Youll need that for edge trimming

 

[Bugsysiegals]

The kits I’ve seen include horizontal and vertical bases but not the 0 degree horizontal base ... not sure which kit you’re referring to??  Also, I don’t see anybody using the guide rail but rather the feeler bearing which comes with it??

 

[ScotF]

0 degree base is extra and better for wider banding. 1.5 degee base comes in the kit and good for thin banding.

 

[Cheese]

So how thick is your edge banding anyways?