Sorting Trays (5mm ply) done with DF500 4mm tenons

[ChuckM]

The wooden trays I found on the 'Net almost are made of 1/2" (13mm) lumber. They're heavy to me, so I made a couple of 5mm ply. The tricky part was to do them with Dominoes.

Two versions are made: one base flush with the sides, the other base slightly oversized. I haven't decided if I'd trim the second base flush with the sides, too. Size about 1-1/4" x 9" x 9".

I'll add some corner blocks to reinforce the already super tight miter joints.

Got to find a reason to use those 4mm tenons (& the scrap ply)! [big grin]

 

[Crazyraceguy]

You put 4mm Dominos in the edge of 5mm Ply? That's some super-hero stuff right there

 

[ChuckM]

[thanks]

No margin for error ... Secret: Test cuts...and steady pace of plunging.

 

[ultane]

Seems like it would be a very week joint…[emoji848]

 

[ChuckM]

Seems like it would be a very week joint…[emoji848]

With the corner blocks in place, the joint will be more than strong enough for the intended purpose. Note that in addition to the tenons, the sides are glued to the base, and that edge joint isn't an endgrain to facegrain joint. I'll do some hardware sorting soon.

 

[ChuckM]

I found a scrap triangular strip, and cut it into sections. The trays worked as expected.

 

[Bob D.]

Reminds me of a project video I started a couple years ago and never finished for some reason. Don't remember why. I built a couple of the trays and recorded the process I believe, but never finished editing and publishing the final cut.

 

[ChuckM]

Bob,

At least you poured them out and sorted them on a work surface. I had the lazy habit of trying to find a bolt or washer from a drawer while it was still partially in a storage cabinet! I couldn't count how many times things dropped to the ground, and I had to retrieve them, or simply didn't bother to look for them. [embarassed]

 

[ultane]

Seems like it would be a very week joint…[emoji848]

With the corner blocks in place, the joint will be more than strong enough for the intended purpose. Note that in addition to the tenons, the sides are glued to the base, and that edge joint isn't an endgrain to facegrain joint. I'll do some hardware sorting soon.

I think that Festool recommends that the dominoes be ~1/3 the thickness of the face of the material that they are being installed. [emoji848]

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[ChuckM]

Yes, you're correct.The 1/3 guideline (esp. for softwood/ply) should be stuck to for structural elements. Ideally, for a 5mm stock, the tenon should be 2.5mm or so for the strongest joinery.

 

[ultane]

Yes, you're correct.The 1/3 guideline (esp. for softwood/ply) should be stuck to for structural elements. Ideally, for a 5mm stock, the tenon should be 2.5mm or so for the strongest joinery.

2.5mm?

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[ChuckM]

In a M&T, the thickness of the tenon should be half the thickness of the mating piece (mortise piece) for optimal strength, though 1/3 is a common choice.

8mm Dominoes are commonly used in 3/4" (19mm) hardwood, as pointed out in the Festool Domino Joiner user manual.

 

[Packard]

Years ago, I made a “crate” from 1/4” plywood.  The joinery was “lacing” using natural fiber twine that had been soaked in water and lacing (like your sneakers) through rows of 1/4” diameter holes.

The twine shrinks as it dries and makes a very tight fit.  I used glue where I tied off, and then coated the whole thing with oil based poly. 

It was not the fastest way to build but it was sturdy and used no bracing.  The structure comes from the geometry of the 5 sided box. 

If I were joining really thin stock and the look of twine or rawhide lacing fits the decor, I would use it again. 

I do recall my fingers taking a beating from pulling on the twine.  I think it was sisal.  It was over 40 years ago, so my memory of it is not so good.  I think I read about it in Mechanics Illustrated or a similar magazine of that era.  Maybe it was “wordless workshop” column.

For those of you who never saw “Wordless Workshop” it was a 1 page comic strip how-to-do-it column.