Spalted Maple/Sea Urchin Lamp

[ear3]

My wife asked me to make a nightlight for the new baby of one of her coworkers.  Grabbed some spalted maple blanks i had lying around that were otherwise too small for other projects, dominoed them together, sanded them up to a Platin 2000 (finishing with Renaissance Wax), routed a channel along the bottom for the cord to nest in, then topped it off with one of the sea urchins I had got from a prior trip to California.

At that point the sea urchin was just loose on the top, and worrying that it would easily fall off, I posted a question on the forum asking for ideas about securing the urchin to the lamp base.  I got some good ideas, and finally went with the one suggested by member cheese (thanks cheese), which involved turning a sleeve for the bulb that the urchin could then slide over.  It worked really well, and so I'll now use this method for the walnut base lamp I also made, and for any others I might fabricate in the future.

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[mike_aa]

Edward,
That is one tremendous looking night light!  Very creative.

Thanks for sharing.

Mike A.

Edit: I just saw your other post which I somehow missed before.  I like the walnut base one, too.  Both are beautiful and well done.

 

[teocaf]

those look extremely nice.  it might be a really good idea to test your solution by leaving the lamp on for a few hours while keeping an eye on it and see if anything gets affected by the heat of the bulb being so close to wood and finish.  i know from experience with some art lamps that i bought that the amount of heat generated by a small bulb can be much more than one expects.  even when you think that a night light is usually not on that long, there could be potential problems if one leaves it on for long periods by accident. 

 

[Wonderwino]

You really shelled out a great project this time!  ;D

 

[dltflt]

That is an awesome project!

 

[Theshipstore]

With concern to heat from the nite light bulb, Target sells LED nite lite bulbs two pack for 4.95, no real heat of any concern from the bulb

 

[ear3]

Good point, thanks.  Gonna pick some of those up and switch them out.

With concern to heat from the nite light bulb, Target sells LED nite lite bulbs two pack for 4.95, no real heat of any concern from the bulb

 

[Tinker]

I like your idea. And great presentation for both the urchin and spalted wood.
I have a small block of spalted maple from a tree we took down in our yard over 30 years ago. I have used some for letter trays and serving trays.  The last one for a letter tray (all the letter trays were dovetailed corners) started breaking down the tails as the spalted maple was too soft to stand the wear and tear, no matter how slight the strain.

The small block i have is from the same end of the small go as the pieces that have broken down.  I had thought, originally to use the piece to make a few more trays, but i now realize it is even softer than what i had used before.  Your project gave me the idea to cut the long (about 2-1/2" square by 12") into shorter blocks and use for a solid base for something (???) I don't have anything in mind right now for the display at top, but still like the idea.

The last piece of the spalted wood I used for a serving tray for my wife.  Since it was so soft, i made the bottom about 1/2" thick.  With walnut sides, the spalted maple really stands out. I have a piece of hickory out in the yard that i plan to slit open in a couple of weeks.  i am hoping that looks as good as spalted maple.  I don't think it is wormy >>> I hope.  I do like spalted wood with all of its surprises.
Tinker

 

[teocaf]

Tinker,
I stabilize the soft wood with a good epoxy like west system or equivalent.  The more spalting, the more complex visually but also the more diseased the wood.

 

[Cheese]

Good point, thanks.  Gonna pick some of those up and switch them out.

With concern to heat from the nite light bulb, Target sells LED nite lite bulbs two pack for 4.95, no real heat of any concern from the bulb

[member=37411]Edward A Reno III[/member]
The sleeve/locater ring turned out real nice.
My original suggestion was for a sleeve height of only 3/16"-1/4" and that was to minimize the amount of heat absorption from the incandescent bulb. These small bulbs put out a lot of heat because they're so inefficient. However, using the sleeve at its present height, I'd absolutely take Sal's suggestion and go the LED bulb route.

However, you'll find the common LED replacements for this bulb will provide less output (lumens) and usually take on a more bluish color (temperature). Target, Home Depot, Menard's and Lowe's all sell different LED replacements. You may have to try several before you find one you like. If that doesn't work out, then a few of my favorite on-line resources would be: LEDLight.com, Super Bright LEDs, Plasma LED and TheLEDlight.com. among others.

 

[pugilato]

Darned urchins... stepped on one a couple of days ago and cant reach them with my tweezers (too deep).

Did you use something to harden the shell? This lamp is way cool.

 

[ear3]

Thanks.  The shell is pretty thick, as far as sea urchins go, and so as long as it remains secured on top I'm pretty optimistic about it's integrity. 

Darned urchins... stepped on one a couple of days ago and cant reach them with my tweezers (too deep).

Did you use something to harden the shell? This lamp is way cool.

 

[iamnothim]

Yo Edward !
"Bad Ass, sick, and Top Shelf !!!"
The trifecta

 

[Tinker]

Tinker,
I stabilize the soft wood with a good epoxy like west system or equivalent.  The more spalting, the more complex visually but also the more diseased the wood.

Does that penetrate the surface of the wood?
or is just a hard surface finish?
Does it retain any flexibility?

For the letter trays, the wood was only about 5/16" in thickness.  (ripped with my ATF 55 on an MFT and guide rail)most of the trays were fine, but the last was from a punkier end of the log.  It was beyond the pretty lines of the privies strips and just not strong enough for DT's
Tinker

 

[teocaf]

you can put the epoxy on the surface and try to work it into the cracks and it might be good enough for the better wood.  for punkier wood you really need to apply the epoxy liberally, wrap the wood in wax paper and put it in vacuum bag.  when you turn on the vac unit, that will force the epoxy to fill in the porous areas.  leave it in the bag for 4 to 5 hours to allow for the epoxy to set.  you're effectively plasticizing the wood and also making it easier to machine with your tools.  you don't have to leave it in a shiny finish either as some think when they hear "plasticize".  that epoxy will be nail hard can be worked to a satin finish.  make sure once it's out of the bag to let it cure at least overnight, in some cases longer. 
the process is a lot more trouble but will work very well when you have a spectacular piece of wood or other material that is not structurally stable.  for smaller pieces like the lamp bases shown above, the pen making suppliers sell acrylic tanks and smaller scale accessories, so you don't have to have a full size vacuum press setup.

 

[Cheese]

[member=2205]teocaf[/member]
Great idea about using a vacuum bag setup. [thumbs up]

 

[Tinker]

Thanks teocaf

 

[Red Devil]

The Coolest!
So good...
Really.

Nigel

 

[Red Devil]

Ps
I have spalted maple wainscoting in my house. It is amazing how Someting on the verge of ruin csn be made into beautiful things.
Great lamp...

Nigel

 

[Gary in Texas]

Edwin,

Very nice design and finished project!!!  I like it!

Gary