Speaker stand round over - how to do it?

103416855.jpg
Fill the cove with Bondo and shape it before it hardens with a shaping tool.
The thickest I have used Bondo is about 1/4”, but I think it will work with the cove. Sand and paint after curing.
I want to have 1/2 radius for the cove. Wouldn’t that be too thick?
 
Aaahh 😯 didn’t think of this, but that’s a good idea.

When I was drawing the other type of template I was like damn, that won’t be very stable, but didn’t think of doing the negative.

What is the outer round over that would be more challenging?
The round over on the edges of your image. The issue is the flat area between the cove and round over. It needs to be wide enough for the base of the router. In this case, it should be fine. The whole point is for the base to be wide enough to be stable.
 
I’m admittedly late to the party on this one. But I might have the solution for you.
https://betterleytools.com/products/coving-router.html
Now don’t shoot the messenger. This solution is extremely overpriced for what you are doing. But it is the correct tool for the job :)
In all seriousness, I picked up one of these routers a few years back and would be willing to “rent” it out.
That’s a sick tool!
You juste made me realize, and I have a friend that does epoxy flooring and they do a lot of cove, maybe they have this type of router. Haha.

Unfortunately, you’re a bit far for me to rent out your cove router.
 
I’m admittedly late to the party on this one. But I might have the solution for you.
https://betterleytools.com/products/coving-router.html
Now don’t shoot the messenger. This solution is extremely overpriced for what you are doing. But it is the correct tool for the job :)
In all seriousness, I picked up one of these routers a few years back and would be willing to “rent” it out.
Those are intended for use with Corian countertops, with integral backsplashes. They are quite expensive, so it's viewed as a commercial shop equipment. The one we have is Porter Cable, but I think they have been discontinued for a while
 
I want to have 1/2 radius for the cove. Wouldn’t that be too thick?
A half inch radius would probably have about 1/4” depth in the corner. That is about as thick as I have gone.

When I moved into my house there were two (bullet?) holes in my garage door. I removed the jagged bits of 1/4” thick plywood and glued a small plywood patch to the back. I then filled the hole with Bondo and then primed and painted. The only way to locate the repair would be to examine the interior to find the patches.

I think it would work. I’ve only used it to repair exterior trim molding. I’ve been able to shape the Bondo with files and sand paper to match the profiles of the molding.

It would be easy to test. Mount a board at right angles to another board and try it. Note: Bondo is a two-part epoxy-like putty. It has a limited open time once mixed. So have the appropriate spreading tools available when you mix.

It cures very quickly so you can sand and paint the same day.

I would glue some sandpaper to a 1” diameter dowel for sanding. It should result in a good profile. It sands easily and well.

After the first time I used Bondo, I self-declared it a “miracle-product”. I don’t use it very often but it has been dependable when I have.
 
@Crazyraceguy Virutex have some offerings of tilting routers, the 12mm/1'2" router FRE317 model I have, very nice unit. As well as 1/4"-8mm routers:



The angled trimmer would likely interest the laminate crowd:

 
In the late 1960s they were remodeling the university bookstore at Syracuse U.

I watched with interest as the workers use a hand-held blade to repeatedly score a Formica sheet. They glued it down and trimmed using a hand-held metal working file uses more like a draw knife than a file. They got commendable results and were able to get into tight quarters.

Also: Very little noise and almost no laminate chips to clean up.

I suspect that the noise and cleand-up were significant considerations as the bookstore remained open during the renovation.

The scoring and cutting of the sheets took time. The file trimming was remarkably efficient. I have used the file technique in tight quarters where a router would not fit. A good option.
 
@Crazyraceguy Virutex have some offerings of tilting routers, the 12mm/1'2" router FRE317 model I have, very nice unit. As well as 1/4"-8mm routers:



The angled trimmer would likely interest the laminate crowd:

Yes, they have a lot of interesting stuff. One of the few tiltable routers out there, over 1/4" collet anyway.
The big Porter-Cable unit does not tilt like that. It is permanently fixed at 45 degrees, with a much larger base plate. It also has an air cushion base, so it floats almost weightless.

@Packard back in the 60s, laminate was twice as thick as it is today. I do most of my cutting with a track saw, though I do still have a scoring knife. Edge trimming is mostly done with a router and file. The Festool carbide radius scraper has been a fairly new addition. I really like it and wish I had gotten it much sooner.
 
Back
Top