Splinter guard coming undone in the summer heat

Osmarruffo

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Joined
May 20, 2023
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I transport both of my FS 1400 in my truck and the splinter guard keeps coming undone. The heat has been affecting the adhesive. I live in Phoenix and it gets a bit hot out here in the summer. It’s barely hit 100 degrees out here. Have any of you guys had this problem? Is there an alternative splinter guard that has heat resistant adhesive, i found several splinter guards on amazon but i am a bit skeptical about them.

Thanks in advance
 
Not a fancy solution - but I use 3M clear packing tape on both ends.  Cheap and works great
 
Many here - myself included - have switched to the Makita strips.  They hold better.  (Although my climate is not as hot as yours, when I kept my rails in my van stored near the roof of my red van I had constant peeling with the Festool.  None with the Makita.)

Peter
 
Peter Halle said:
Many here - myself included - have switched to the Makita strips.  They hold better.  (Although my climate is not as hot as yours, when I kept my rails in my van stored near the roof of my red van I had constant peeling with the Festool.  None with the Makita.)

Peter

Oh I gotta try this thank you!
 
I've switched to Makita, they're more like what Festool used to use. No more problems.
 
I had a problem with the gauze strip with the adhesive separating from the plastic strip.  That’s a manufacturing issue, not an application issue.  It happened in the dead of winter, so probably the cold precipitated the separation, but a manufacturing or engineering defect was the underlying cause.

Like others, I switched to Makita.  Less expensive and so far better performing.  And the black color seems more macho. [big grin]
 
Good to know about the Mikita strips, as I have already bought several of them to replace the crappy festool ones, that literally fell off while not in use.

It’s very important to clean all the old festool adhesive off the aluminum guide rails. Probably a job for gloves and acetone… and persistence, and patience.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 
ultane said:
Good to know about the Makita strips, as I have already bought several of them to replace the crappy festool ones, that literally fell off while not in use.
...
There is nothing "crappy" about the Festool strips.

They use a different material which is of a way higher quality than the Makita soft rubber. They also use a high quality adhesive that does not degrade over time near as fast.

E.g., our Makita rails already came with a degraded adhesive ... took an inordinate amount of work to clean it when putting the Festool strips on those rails ... (see below why).

The Festool strips are harder which means they work better in their primary function - preventing splinter. But that has a cost - being harder. the material is not elastic-enough to handle well the temperature-related elongation difference between the aluminium rail and the plastic strip. It also means that a teared Festool strip is more impacting the cut quality than, e.g., a teared Makita strip. The soft Makita strips do not work all that well against splinter even when new ... so less difference to a chewed up one. With Festool, a chewed up strip versus a fresh one is a night/day situation.

Overall, I see the Festool strips way superior when used in mostly constant-temp environment where the limitations do not show and the advantages can be leveraged. Not so when stored in a vehicle or an unheated garage (in a colder climate).

IMO, Festool should sell a separate "soft" anti-splinter strip like the Makita ones are for "mobile" storage/use. Till they do, for such harsher climate cases, the Makita strips are the solution.

Caveat emptor:
With the Makita strips the saw cut line should not be farther than 0.1", or so, from the track. The Makita strips being soft and thin, the further from the track the anti-splinter function gets weak to non-existent pretty fast. This is unlike with the Festool strips so can be confusing. Those work well to prevent splinters even with cuts 4-5 mm from the track edge. The easiest this can be seen is with laminated chipboard.

Addo:
Festool did use rubber strips in the past, similar to the Makita copy. They switched to the plastic ones to improve the anti-splinter function I think like 15 yrs ago or so. It was a questionable change for some, but given Makita sells the "old" type that is fine.
Either way, one cannot have an excellent anti-splinter function *and* the advantages of a soft strip *and* the ability of the cut line to be further than 0.1" from the rail. One of the three has to give. Festool chose to forego the advantages of a soft strip. Makita chose to forego the support for a more distant cut line. One can choose the poison.
 
I think the issue is more the adhesive than the actual strips the way I see it. If I buy a book I need to use a jackhammer to get the price sticker off. Yet the strips on my Festool rails start peeling away just hanging on the wall in the shed in Melb.

Given the advancements in adhesives, I would expect the strips to adhere better. My 420mm crosscut rail hasn't started peeling yet, so I'm hoping that's a good sign.
 
Interesting to note, that Mafell also uses a rubber splinter strip, however they avoid the Makita issues by changing the geometry of the splinter strip and maintaining the cut-line at .125" from the rail edge.

Mafell also avoids the Festool issues by incorporating 2 glands to retain the splinter strip.

[attachimg=1]

The rubber splinter strip is also easier to line up against a pencil line because it doesn't fracture/chip like the Festool strip does. It provides a uniform edge along its entire length. On my Festool rails I've drawn several arrows to point out the troubled/chipped areas until I replace the splinter strips.

[attachimg=2]
 

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ultane said:
Good to know about the Mikita strips, as I have already bought several of them to replace the crappy festool ones, that literally fell off while not in use.

It’s very important to clean all the old festool adhesive off the aluminum guide rails. Probably a job for gloves and acetone… and persistence, and patience.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Mine failed when the adhesive (still attached to the aluminum) separated from gauze that was attached to the plastic.  Since I still had adhesion to the aluminum, blame for the failure could not be put on the prep on the aluminum.

Does anyone know why there is gauze used as a carrier for the adhesive?  I would think that they would apply the adhesive directly to the sacrificial plastic splinter guard.
 
Packard said:
Mine failed when the adhesive (still attached to the aluminum) separated from gauze that was attached to the plastic.  Since I still had adhesion to the aluminum, blame for the failure could not be put on the prep on the aluminum.

Does anyone know why there is gauze used as a carrier for the adhesive?  I would think that they would apply the adhesive directly to the sacrificial plastic splinter guard.

I wonder if the gauze is a mechanism to hold more adhesive, or allow the dissimilar materials to expand or contract .

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 
ultane said:
Packard said:
Mine failed when the adhesive (still attached to the aluminum) separated from gauze that was attached to the plastic.  Since I still had adhesion to the aluminum, blame for the failure could not be put on the prep on the aluminum.

Does anyone know why there is gauze used as a carrier for the adhesive?  I would think that they would apply the adhesive directly to the sacrificial plastic splinter guard.

I wonder if the gauze is a mechanism to hold more adhesive, or allow the dissimilar materials to expand or contract .

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

I don’t know why they would use the gauze.  But you would think that Festool would know about all the complaints and the migration to Makita splinter guards.  You would also think that they might reverse engineer the Makita splinter guards and come out with an improved version.

My only guess is that Festool’s marketing people are in love with the translucent strips.

Festool goes against the standard engineer-driven mindset that I expect from German products (think “Porsche”or “Mercedes”) and are more market driven than I might expect.  Maybe the translucency is in the same spot as the Festool beige and Festool green; something the engineers are not allowed to mess with.
 
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