splinter guard replacement

[HowardH]

I have a number of rails where the splinter guards are in need of replacement. I have done this before with mixed results meaning I removed the old one, throughly cleaned the rail using mineral spirits, wd/40, etc. to get any trace of residual adhesive from the old one, and then carefully placed the new one. Invariably, they seem to come loose at the ends of the rails.  Mafell/Bosch use, IMO, a much better approach with the splinter guards being totally captured but that's another story.  Any best practices to make the new splinter strips to stay stuck?

 

[RJNeal]

I use acetone, mineral spirit has a oily base.
I also use the Makita strips only. The Festool ones have never stayed on even when new.
Rick.

 

[HowardH]

Well there is that…

 

[Crazyraceguy]

The WD-40 is likely your problem here. It may be fine for actually removing the residue of the adhesive, but it is also a massive barrier to sticking the new one. Using it is fine, but you have to be sure to remove every trace of it, when you are done.
Acetone is great, but not the most friendly stuff. Something as simple as dish washing liquid may suffice. Simple Green, some other kind of degreaser of your choosing, as long as it is truly clean, is fine too....and not so flammable/dangerous.

The guys that I know who have them, dislike the Makita strips. They say it is "harder" more brittle, etc. not like the more pliable stuff from Festool.

 

[HowardH]

I ended using "Goof Off" and that seems to work really well.  Took all the residue off and left a clean, dry surface.  I applied the new strip, trimmed off the ends and tomorrow I'll run the saw down the track for the final edge trim.  I also left it face down on the MFT so the adhesive will have some pressure on it to stick better. 

 

[Michael Kellough]

When I get the strip back on the rail I place a stick at least as long as the rail on the strip and then use as many spring clamps as will fit to press the strip onto the rail. They call the adhesive “pressure sensitive” for a reason.

If you don’t have a lot of spring clamps use bigger strips of wood (maybe on both sides of the rail so you don’t bend the aluminum) and then use fewer but bigger clamps.

 

[thudchkr]

I have taken to using a strip of clear packing tape at the end of the strip, wrapping it up and over the metal portion of the rail.  It is not thick enough to hold the splinter guard off your material and the saw glides over it if you run the saw all the way off the end of your rail.

My splinter guards have always worn to the point of them needing to be either moved or replaced before the packing tape has worn off.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I have heard of the packing tape method, but never done it myself. It should be fine. Theoretically you should never run all of the way off the ends of the rail anyway, unless you are joining them. In practice, it happens, but shouldn't be every time either. If you are doing that with every cut, you need a longer rail.

 

[rmwarren]

Threw in the towel with Festool's strips, clear doesn't matter to me so I switched over to Makita's black and no issues with it sticking. And lacquer thinner, then scuff it lightly with sandpaper.

RMW

 

[wmarazita]

I also use the Makita strips only. The Festool ones have never stayed on even when new.
Rick.

This

Original Festool black strips were great (still on my old rails).
Current clear strips are.....$%@#*&!

 

[Cheese]

I have done this before with mixed results meaning I removed the old one, throughly cleaned the rail using mineral spirits, wd/40, etc. to get any trace of residual adhesive from the old one, and then carefully placed the new one. Invariably, they seem to come loose at the ends of the rails. 

Mafell/Bosch use, IMO, a much better approach with the splinter guards being totally captured but that's another story. 

The WD 40 approach is not good as a final solution because it leaves behind a residual dirty/oily surface. If you use WD 40 to remove the residue, then you need to use something else to remove the WD 40. I prefer to use Goof Off or naphtha because it leaves no residue.

You're right...the splinter guards on the Mafell rails are "pretty something".  [big grin]

 

[sancho57]

i have the same problem Its a common problem with these FT spinter guards. As folks have said they use the makita ones which are supposed to last longer. I still use the FT ones. I add a bit of tape at the end of each SG to help it from coming off. But in the Az heat that doesnt help all the time.

I got a couple to replace. I just use acetone, or t]laquer thinner to clean the resideue off after I scrape the majority off.
I dont use WD 40.

 

[ryan_k]

I've had success cleaning with acetone and using some CA clue on the ends to keep the strips from lifting up.

 

[wmarazita]

i have the same problem Its a common problem with these FT spinter guards. As folks have said they use the makita ones which are supposed to last longer. I still use the FT ones. I add a bit of tape at the end of each SG to help it from coming off. But in the Az heat that doesnt help all the time.

I got a couple to replace. I just use acetone, or t]laquer thinner to clean the resideue off after I scrape the majority off.
I dont use WD 40.

Jobsworth,
Do you find that the clear Festool splinter guards are superior in some way to the black ones? Some have said that the reason Festool switched from black to clear years ago was that it is easier to see pencil lines next to the clear strips. I haven't really found any difference in being able to see pencil lines or any other advantage to the clear strips. Just wondering.
Bill