spray methods for 2 sided surfaces

[BPCFinishing]

I'm trying to perfect a setup for spraying cabinet doors and drawer fronts but am running into an issue.  I currently use spacers or bench cookies to hold the door etc up off the work surface to spray.  This keeps it off the wet oversprayed work surface and gives me good access to the sides. However, it allows some overspray underneath the surface, enough at times to "shadow" where my spacers or cookies were.  So I'm wondering, what setup do you guys use for spraying these kinds of items?  I am using an hvlp sprayer and waterborne finishes fyi.

 

[semenza]

    So the over spray (underneath) is getting onto the bottom side around the edges?

Seth

 

[BPCFinishing]

    So the over spray (underneath) is getting onto the bottom side around the edges?

Seth

That is correct...just went out and did another round on a set of doors I'm working on and adjusted air pressure a bit... will see if that makes any sort of significant difference. 

 

[duburban]

raise further off work surface?

 

[richardkent]

raise further off work surface?

I second that idea.  What you're probably seeing is the overspray is bouncing/splattering off the table underneath and as your doors are close enough they get hit.

You could also restrict your air flow to see if that does it, but that's a whole other process.

Another option would be to eliminate a solid surface under the entire door.  Maybe 2x4's across saw horses with your pucks on there to keep the doors off the 2x4s.  Now when you shoot most of the door there's no solid surface for bounce off.  You could also forego the picks, stand the 2x4s on end and sink finish nails or the like to keep the doors up off the 2x4's, even less surface area under the doors.

 

[kelauben]

I hang my doors and am able to shoot all the sides in one go.

 

[rst]

I shoot fine 1/4" crown staple in the bottom edges, holding the stapler away so the crown can be used to hang the item.  Spray that side first then hang and spray the rest.  Industry uses honey comb cardboard to spray on thus avoiding the bounce.  I get mine from a hollow core door supplier.  The one I have now I've used for years.

 

[tiralie]

So I'm wondering, what setup do you guys use for spraying these kinds of items? 

I use a turntable with painters pyramids on brown paper.

I am using an hvlp sprayer and waterborne finishes fyi.

Which hvlp sprayer and which finishes? What is the width of your pattern?

I think reducing the air pressure would be the first step, but it depends on what kind of coating you are spraying and if you need the atomization from the higher air pressure. Moving your gun an inch or so more away from your surface as you spray might reduce the bounce back you are seeing the the underside enough to remove the problem.

Try to spray the sides at 45 degrees rather than at right angles to it. When you spray the other side you will overlap the previous coat. This cuts down on over spray bouncing back up to the underside.

I am not sure where you are located, but during the winter the air is dry and this will affect the drying time of the paint you are using causing any over spray to dry much more quickly. Sometimes and for some coatings the addition of up to 5% distilled water will help any over spray level out.

Tim

 

[semenza]

These look like a good option for hanging ..............

    http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/Euro-Hinge-Finishing-Clip-3p10005.htm

Seth

 

[Vondawg]

That euro hanger looks great and you can't beat the price

 

[mastercabman]

I use an old quart can and have my exhaust fan behind

 

[tiralie]

These look like a good option for hanging ..............

I always prefer to spray flat, and unless I am refinishing doors there are no cup holes to hang from. I always worry about knocking those off the hangers and having the door crash to the ground. If I was doing 3-6 doors I think it would be fine, but trying to avoid over spray with 20-25 hanging pieces in my spray booth would be a challenge to say the least.
Tim

 

[rajuliano]

I use Painters Pyramids. They're available at the big box stores as well as woodworking shops and paint stores, so they're easy to get a hold of.

http://www.painterspyramid.com

 

[BPCFinishing]

Thanks for all the responses!  I just checked the doors I did this morning after adjusting the air pressure at the gun and that seemed to make a difference.  I'm running cheap generic gravity hvlps and spray either SW Kem Aqua or SW Pro Industrial enamel (previously 0 VOC...then something else...it might not even have a name now!)  I think I'm going to incorporate several of these ideas to make a spray table to suit my needs.  I'll post some pics in the morning once my phone is charged

 

[ElCabong]

I bought one of those "Lazy Susans" and built a platform with four posts on each corner. Each post has a brad nail (blunted) at the end so that the cabinet doors rest on them. The posts are approximately four to eight inches (interchangeable) depending on the size of the door. When I spray the doors I can just spin the doors and stay in one position. The main point being is that my surfaces are elevated at least four inches off the table so I don't get any overspray or bounce back.