Spray painting and the use of metal powders

[g1_lo]

Hi I am looking for some advice on technique and process in doing as the title suggests. Not me personally, but I am interested in how this finish is carried out.

I have attached an image which I am going from. I know this was achieved by using metal powders within the paint, and has a patinaed finish but could possibly be burnished to give it a polished/gloss affect.

Which is why I have turned to the FOG as I am sure someone here has some experience doing this. Hopefully  [eek].

Thanks for looking. - sorry for the grainy photo.

 

[tjbnwi]

Back in the day---we used to shoot paints with metal flake and diamond dust. A different gun was used, the paint never got filtered and you would gently shake the gun every few seconds to keep the additives in suspension. To lay the product down evenly took practice.

There are some paints used in commercial work that have additives in them to create a tuff resistant surface. Those paints are shot through a large airless prayer with all the filters removed.

Tom

 

[Holmz]

The haus-boss did a copper in a clear binder with a brush over a plaster. It looks amazing and is 12 years on now.

 

[g1_lo]

So in theory if you had the paint with the additive in it. You would just mix that with the paint.

Get a different sized nozzle/tip to allow for the fines to come through.

Then its just a bit of trial and error to get the desired finish?

 

[Holmz]

The stuff was micron sized, and falls to the bottom.
I got some copper colored automoive paint and half was constantly sinking and there was a bronze film that was floating.
I just just kept giving the pot a swirl like a lord at the country club ensures that the scotch keeps in contact with the ice.

 

[tjbnwi]

So in theory if you had the paint with the additive in it. You would just mix that with the paint.

Get a different sized nozzle/tip to allow for the fines to come through.

Then its just a bit of trial and error to get the desired finish?

Pretty much.

In my opinion, the picture you posted is a poor example of how the process can turn out. Unless that's the look they were going for [scared]

Tom

 

[monstrol]

Crescent bronze carries a lot of  powders and can give you the technical support for what goes with what.  When I used the powders in lacquer I never had any issues but using a waterborne I found that I needed to know if the powder would oxidize or rust or whatever,  just call them and ask.

 

[Holmz]

It can also look good when there is a patina in/on the copper.

 

[monstrol]

patinas are cool, using resists with patinas are even more cool

 

[g1_lo]

Ok thanks for the information guys.

Out of interest do any of you have images of something you've done to this ilk or could show me a little more as to what we are all referring to when you comment about your experiences. Just to get an overall appreciation of what can be seen to be achieved.

I know my original post image is poor quality, I took it in a rush a while ago from a magazine when I was out and about.

Oh I like the analogy of the whiskey shaking. Not heard that one before  [thumbs up].

 

[tjbnwi]

I looked at a few of the older pictures I have, none show the metals well enough to bother posting.

Tom

 

[monstrol]

I can't find any.  Also the pearlescent and interference pigments work better on a dark base color.

 

[Jamestoolie]

I have had good success with sculpt nouveau products.  Not sure if they ship internationally.  Purchasing and using the metal powders is straight forward.  If you're using a reactive acid patina it works best when the paint is still wet. 
http://www.sculptnouveau.com/