Spray shop

Joined
Jul 31, 2012
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30
Took this one today before we were leaving, needs a huge tidy up but I will sort that before the big job starts next week

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I saw your other work on another thread - I wish I was in the same league.
I've just finished my small 180 square foot spray booth but am struggling with the extraction side. Someone gave me an extraction fan but its 3 phase and I can't get it to work with the phase converter I got from the scrap yard ( I sound cheap but I haven't sprayed anything for 6 months as my work varies so much so I am reluctant to invest more in what may turn out to be a white elephant)
So to get to the point - what extraction do you, use any tips etc, etc.???
I am in France but I've just been to the UK today to buy more tools as the difference in price more than coveres the travel costs, so UK addresses are probably more useful to me - anyway its August and France seems to be closed.
Richard
 
The main extractor is 2hp, which covers the booth and the general air in the shop. Im working on making it positive pressure as it is basically air tight when it when the doors are shut. So Im looking at installing another 2hp fan to draw air in and help push any overspray down wind to the booth.

You only really need to extract the booth area that your doing the spraying in, we normally spray in the booth then move the stuff down the shop to dry on drying racks. Also depends on what your looking to spray as heavy waterbased coatings dont take much extracting as they dont mist as much as thin laquers.

If you dont do much spraying get yourself a cheap apollo hvlp system they will spray most things to an adequate standard no need to worry about compressors and line and guns. we have one we use to paint garage doors onsite and do any finish repairs. Also there as cheap as chips on ebay, get a 3/4 stage as they extend the range of stuff you can handle. More important really is to have some spray overalls if your spraying anything with thinners in it as it will stop you stinking and also helps you keep your working area clean, filter everthing you put in your gun, thinners, paint, gunwash and buy masses of tack rags to make sure you keep your panels properly clean inbetween coats. Also keep your kit clean clean the gun properly at the end of each job and if you can afford it have a seperate gun just for clear coats.   
 
Thanks for the reply. I use a Fuji HVLP. My room is within the first floor of the shop. There are windows from the rest of the shop (old scrap ones) so I was thinking of opening a window when spreying and putting a filter in to filter the incoming air. The extractor will go on an outside window in a filter box. I just need to find one that wont be too expensive.
 
That's good to know. I ve been looking for a decent exterior grade paint for a while. Is it possible to use sikkens paints with a hvlp unit? I ve been using morrells laquers for a while now and when I asked them about exterior paints they said hvlp would nt cope with it
 
Be very careful with morrells there technical are absolutely useless and they rushed omnia onto the market before it was ready we had a job in oak we did in omnia and within a year it had all fell off which cost us a fortune in refinishing. We use movac now and find them spot on.
 
Blimey [eek]That's a bit worrying. Just finishing up an oak stair job now. I ve used their pre cat cellulose laquers. Been using it on quite a lot of jobs in the last 6 months. Hope it ll be ok.
 
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