Square cuts

[gh0st]

Hi,

I'm thinking about purchasing the TS 55 saw and guide rails. My question is regarding setup. Lets say we want to rip a 8x4 sheet right down the middle, so each piece left over would be 24". How easy is it to set the guides so they are square and allow for a even cut? It seems to me you still have to use a tape measure on both ends and measure the edge of the sheet to the rails precisely. Can someone tell me how hard/easy it is to setup the rails for a square cut on a 8x4 sheet?

 

[harry_]

that's exactly how you do it.

generally it is best to remove the factory edge first and reference off of that, as they are generally garbage.

 

[semenza]

Hi,

It is easier if you are using oversize plywood because you can remove the factory edge first as Harry said and still have enough to get two 24" pieces. Of course from 48" wide plywood you will get slightly under 24" per half.

To split the sheet evenly you measure and mark as you suggested. Allowing for the saw kerf. You would need to mark 24" minus half the kerf width. It is not hard to measure mark and set the rail accurately. If this is something that will be repeated many times then a rail setting jig of some type would be ideal.

Oversize ply will also let you square a corner and still have the "full" sheet left.

Seth

 

[harry_]

Hi,

It is easier if you are using oversize plywood because you can remove the factory edge first as Harry said and still have enough to get two 24" pieces. Of course from 48" wide plywood you will get slightly under 24" per half.

To split the sheet evenly you measure and mark as you suggested. Allowing for the saw kerf. You would need to mark 24" minus half the kerf width. It is not hard to measure mark and set the rail accurately. If this is something that will be repeated many times then a rail setting jig of some type would be ideal.

Oversize ply will also let you square a corner and still have the "full" sheet left.

Seth

Quite correct.

My apologies, I am almost always putting some sort of edging on at least one edge of my plywood so for me it plays out as `a wash`.

To make your life easier:

Set the end of the rail that will begin your cut to your measure. Then set the saw on the rail. Then set the other end to your measure. Although not perfect, this will help to prevent the rail from 'walking' as you try to adjust it.

If you have/use this rail clamp, then set the opposite end of the rail first, pushing the rail lengthwise so that the non-trigger half of the clamp make contact. While holding the tension to what will now be the far clamp half, adjust for the other mark and trigger it secure.

I found this clamp to be very useful

 

[GPowers]

Hi,

I'm thinking about purchasing the TS 55 saw and guide rails. My question is regarding setup. Lets say we want to rip a 8x4 sheet right down the middle, so each piece left over would be 24". How easy is it to set the guides so they are square and allow for a even cut? It seems to me you still have to use a tape measure on both ends and measure the edge of the sheet to the rails precisely. Can someone tell me how hard/easy it is to setup the rails for a square cut on a 8x4 sheet?

The guide rails or even using the Parallel Guides do NOT guarantee a square finish product. That is where the MFT/3 comes in. The MFT/3 is used to square the parallelogram that were cut with he Parallel guides and the Guide rails.

 

[zapdafish]

Not sure if this will help you.

Qwas Square

I recently bought one but haven't had a need to use it yet

 

[Corwin]

The OP states that he wants to "rip a 8x4 sheet right down the middle," so that should indicate that he is looking for a method to align his guide rail parallel to an edge rather than make "square cuts" as this thread's title might otherwise suggest.  These last couple posts seem to be confusing the issue.

 

[MarkF]

I use a drywall "T".  Squared with the 3-4-5 method.

 

[fshanno]

The cheapest way to rip a sheet is the reliable old two razor blade method.  Stick a razor blade on your mark at each end.  Bump the guide against the razor blades.  Actually you don't have to make a mark, just stretch out your tape and push in the razor blade at the dimension you want.  It's simple reliable and pretty accurate.  The safest way to do it is to use a couple of utility knives because you won't forget to remove them after the guide is set.

What is oversize plywood?  5'x9'? Or are we talking about plywood that's oversized in the same way melamine is oversized, 49x97? 

 

[Alan m]

yes 47 x 97

 

[fshanno]

yes 47 x 97

Excellent, frankly I didn't know it existed.  But really hardwood ply should always come that way, who wouldn't want it?  I can't imagine a single down side for sheet goods that are intended for cabinetry.

I've searched the web and I can't find it.  Where do you get it?

 

[Jonhilgen]

Not sure if this will help you.

Qwas Square

I recently bought one but haven't had a need to use it yet

I second the qwas square!  I use it every single day on site.  I even bought an extra rail dedicated just for it.  It's a mobile squaring device and loads lighter and a whole lot cheaper too.

Jon

 

[Steve F]

The cheapest way to rip a sheet is the reliable old two razor blade method.  Stick a razor blade on your mark at each end.  Bump the guide against the razor blades.  Actually you don't have to make a mark, just stretch out your tape and push in the razor blade at the dimension you want.  It's simple reliable and pretty accurate.  The safest way to do it is to use a couple of utility knives because you won't forget to remove them after the guide is set.

I'm just a novice hobbyist, but I never heard of this one.  Brilliant and simple.  I must say, though, that the QWAS rail dogs are excellent.  Instead of buying an MFT, I bought only a replacement top, use bench cookies as legs, and then use the QWAS rail dogs (and some regular dogs) to get perfect 90 degree cuts every time.  Much easier than using the clamps, but I love that razor blade trick!

Steve

 

[semenza]

Hi,

For oversized ply (49 x 97) track down a real lumber yard that can order any kind of sheet goods you want, or a lumber dealer that supplies cabinet shops, you can try hardwood dealers too.  Once you find a source it should be no trouble to get what ever you want. But you won't get it through a big box.  Also it might not be called oversize so ask and check for each type that you may be ordering.

Seth

 

[fdengel]

yes 47 x 97

Wouldn't 47 be undersized?

 

[peter halle]

yes 47 x 97

Wouldn't 47 be undersized?

Yes it would be.  I believe that the 47 instead of 49 was a typo.

 

[Alan m]

yes sorry 49x97

 

[Sam Murdoch]

As always lots of good ideas already posted but here is one more tip. I have found this system useful in order to get multiple rips of the same dimensions. Set up 1 or 2 aluminum rules, preferably of the 2" wide x 1/8" thick x at least 3" long types with a pair of framing square clamps at your intended dimension. I use a clamp on each edge which ensures that my rule is truly perpendicular to the ply edge - no mini twist allowed. The clamps register against a previously straightened edge of the plywood (never go off factory) and the end of the rule to one end of the guide rail - which I always choose to clamp. Then move your rule to the other end & clamp there too. 2 rules properly set up are faster but one works fine. You can rip all day without ever needing to use your tape or your razor blades.

 

[Corwin]

As always lots of good ideas already posted but here is one more tip. I have found this system useful in order to get multiple rips of the same dimensions. Set up 1 or 2 aluminum rules, preferably of the 2" wide x 1/8" thick x at least 3" long types with a pair of framing square clamps at your intended dimension. I use a clamp on each edge which ensures that my rule is truly perpendicular to the ply edge - no mini twist allowed. The clamps register against a previously straightened edge of the plywood (never go off factory) and the end of the rule to one end of the guide rail - which I always choose to clamp. Then move your rule to the other end & clamp there too. 2 rules properly set up are faster but one works fine. You can rip all day without ever needing to use your tape or your razor blades.

Yep, the method Sam has outlined is great to make multiple parts the same size.  A slight variation is to set the rule or rules to a setting that is the width of the guide rail less than the desired width of the parts that you want to cut.  That way your rule or rules can butt up against the backside of the guide rail and positioned square to the guide rail using framing squares.  So, take a scrap piece of material that is at least a little wider than the width of the guide rail, align a clean edge even with the back edge of your guide rail and cut the piece -- now you have a setup piece that is the width of your guide rail.  And as Sam says, you won't need to measure each cut with your tape or use any razor blades -- a much faster and more accurate method than using those razor blades.

 

[Sam Murdoch]

As always lots of good ideas already posted but here is one more tip. I have found this system useful in order to get multiple rips of the same dimensions. Set up 1 or 2 aluminum rules, preferably of the 2" wide x 1/8" thick x at least 3" long types with a pair of framing square clamps at your intended dimension. I use a clamp on each edge which ensures that my rule is truly perpendicular to the ply edge - no mini twist allowed. The clamps register against a previously straightened edge of the plywood (never go off factory) and the end of the rule to one end of the guide rail - which I always choose to clamp. Then move your rule to the other end & clamp there too. 2 rules properly set up are faster but one works fine. You can rip all day without ever needing to use your tape or your razor blades.

Yep, the method Sam has outlined is great to make multiple parts the same size.  A slight variation is to set the rule or rules to a setting that is the width of the guide rail less than the desired width of the parts that you want to cut.  That way your rule or rules can butt up against the backside of the guide rail and positioned square to the guide rail using framing squares.  So, take a scrap piece of material that is at least a little wider than the width of the guide rail, align a clean edge even with the back edge of your guide rail and cut the piece -- now you have a setup piece that is the width of your guide rail.  And as Sam says, you won't need to measure each cut with your tape or use any razor blades -- a much faster and more accurate method than using those razor blades.

Yup - what he said - not a variation, just more clearly stated. I just use the guide rail itself rather than a set up piece.