Squares for guide rail

If your just trying to square the MFT then a try square will do the job just fine. We use one of these (12") stock against the fence blade against the rail:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=32599&cat=1,42936

We build using the 32mm system with "balanced" panels, which require consistent accuracy of .5mm or less. No problems.

With regards to squaring a cross cut over 48" we use one of these:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=44624&cat=1,42936,42944&ap=1

With one of these:
http://www.stanleytools.com/default...&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=45-011&SDesc=Premium+Aluminum+Rafter+Square+%28English%29

Cheap and as accurate as I can measure. Don't bother with the other carpenters squares that Stanley makes the black beauty is the one you want. Or if your inclined you can fork out for the Lee Valley unit...

Cheers,

M
 
MichaelM said:
With regards to squaring a cross cut over 48" we use one of these:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=44624&cat=1,42936,42944&ap=1

With one of these:
http://www.stanleytools.com/default...&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=45-011&SDesc=Premium+Aluminum+Rafter+Square+%28English%29

Cheap and as accurate as I can measure. Don't bother with the other carpenters squares that Stanley makes the black beauty is the one you want. Or if your inclined you can fork out for the Lee Valley unit...

Cheers,

M

I had looked at the Lee Valley jig that mounts to a square.  I wasn't sure if it locked on well enough to stay in place.  I didn't want to have to keep checking for square every other time I used it.  That jig with the Stanley square might not be a bad way to go.  Why do you think this model of square is better than the others?

Tom.
 
It locks on very well, no checking needed. The Black Stanley is their "Premium" carpenter square and are individually checked for square. I can vouch for that, I have 2 of them and they are both dead on. Stay away for the Johnson stuff you'll find at the Borg and other places, crap.

I used one of them as a part of a crosscut jig that mounts to a guide rail. Allows me to perform 4ft cross cuts without having to measure and mark and check for square and...

M
 
poto said:
Eiji showed me an 18 inch Woodpecker speedsquare that he uses for the task:http://www.woodpeck.com/speedsquare.html Expensive, but it looks perfect for squaring the fence.

I bought that Woodpeckers 18 inch square exactly for that primary purpose.  It works well.  I also use that square when laying out and cutting cabinet components.  Most upper cabinets and most bookcases are less than 18 inches deep. 

Jerry Work likes the large machinest square [engineer's square] available from Enco at less cost than the Woodpeckers 18 inch square.  But I am satisfied with my purchase.  The one big negative is that the graduations are painted on and thus prone to being scuffed off, if you slide the square.

Dave R.
 
I used a framing square with the Lee Valley thing on it
for awhile.  Kind of awkward but a few taps with a punch
will fix the square if it gets dropped and banged out
of square.

Lately I've used a 12" speed square for crosscuts with
circular saws.  Honestly it's good enough for a wide
range of work. 
 
josephgewing said:
Enco is at use-enco.com.  The 12x18 engineer square is about $40 plus shipping.

Just a heads up...I contacted Enco and this square is unfortunately no longer available...their next cheapest 12x18 square is $82... :-[

After doing a lot of searching on the net today i found this website:

Linky

part #303-6317 10x18 engineer square for $38 - shipping was $10.

I'm not affiliated with this store, but I thought members might like a trailhead if they too are looking for a large machinist square
 
I guess it really depends on the work you're doing as well. I also have a pair of $7 combination squares that stay on the MFT. Are they square? I doubt it. But when I'm ripping a wider board down, I mark the board and set them identically as depth gauges to push against the (cutting) edge of the rail. makes it very easy to get the rail lined up on the board quickly. Remember the kerf width if your keeper piece isn't under the rail.
 
sainttjames said:
part #303-6317 10x18 engineer square for $38 - shipping was $10.

I'm not affiliated with this store, but I thought members might like a trailhead if they too are looking for a large machinist square

The potential problem I see is that unlike the Enco square, this one is not stated to be to any speficiation or tolerance.  Please update us when you receive it and check it for square.

Thanks.
 
Here's another vote for the Woodpecker 18" square. It is way more accurate than a speed square(Per, just buy it ;D). Before I spent my hard earned dollars on it I was using a top end framing square and this thing beats the pants off that. It lays flat on the wood and butts snuggly up to the edge (edge is bolted on not radius-ed like a casting).If Woodpecker wants to send me some free goodies I will gush even more. ;D
Mike

Now I need a zippered triangular soft case ::) like the Stabilla level jobbie. The MDF case weighs a ton.
 
Mike Chrest said:
Here's another vote for the Woodpecker 18" square. It is way more accurate than a speed square(Per, just buy it ;D). Before I spent my hard earned dollars on it I was using a top end framing square and this thing beats the pants off that. It lays flat on the wood and butts snuggly up to the edge (edge is bolted on not radius-ed like a casting).If Woodpecker wants to send me some free goodies I will gush even more. ;D
Mike

Now I need a zippered triangular soft case ::) like the Stabilla level jobbie. The MDF case weighs a ton.

Mike,

I don't transport my Woodpeckers 18" carpenters triangle, but if I had to, I'd make a simple case with a front and back made from 1/4 plywood joioned to some solid wood edges equipped with solid wood interior supports for the square or triangle within the case.  That would be much lighter than the large piece of carved out MDF supplied by Woodpeckers to protect their precision squares and triangles.

Dave R. 
 
I'm with Per.  The Swanson Speed square works great with a Festool guide rail.  Wouldn't be without it.  Simple, cheap, effective.
 
I borrowed a neat idea I got here (from John Lucas, I think) and took my Enco down to the Borg with me.  I picked the first speed square that showed square on the Enco (about the third one on the rack).  So I knew I was starting with a speed square that was square.

Works great.
 
Dave Rudy said:
I borrowed a neat idea I got here (from John Lucas, I think) and took my Enco down to the Borg with me.  I picked the first speed square that showed square on the Enco (about the third one on the rack).  So I knew I was starting with a speed square that was square.

Works great.

I was just about to repeat that idea when I saw there was a second page. There is no reason to use any other square once you have found the square speed square. I also think they are less prone to being thrown off square when dropped.

If you think that it isn't long and accurate enough for setting up for a crosscut, then use a drafting square (orange plastic) of other longer square and check you speed square setting. When you find that it is always square, you can go back to using the speed square only.

A hint: when setting the rail for a square cut, angle the rail up so that the end nearest to you and the square can set the rail squarely and lower it carefully. It is very hard to "nudge" the rail into a square position once it is dodwn.

fes-591.jpg

This photo shows the technique but we were using the Festool Angle Unit. It gave us square sides because we had set the unit to square and locked it in at that one point. I don't recommend this accessory. It should be good but it  isn't. (yes, Festool supplied me with that device free of charge but I tell it like it is anyway.)
 
In my little garage, the MFS is king. It is by far, the quickest and most precise tool to set the guide rail for me.....in addition to the other bazillion things that the MFS does. I've tried several layout tools....and many work fairly well. The MFT is almost like a no brainer for me. Though, it would be quite expensive if only used for the purpose of setting the rail. 
 
Actually, it's not that much more expensive than the 18" speed square from Woodpecker... Thanks for pointing that out, Rey.
 
Quote by Woodshopdemos:

This photo shows the technique but we were using the Festool Angle Unit. It gave us square sides because we had set the unit to square and locked it in at that one point. I don't recommend this accessory. It should be good but it  isn't. (yes, Festool supplied me with that device free of charge but I tell it like it is anyway.)

Thanks for the advice John. I was thinking of picking up one of those soley for the purpose of setting angles other than 90'. Thought it might work because of the integration and locking features. I'll stick with my Starrett angle/miter finder. Only thing is it does not lock.
 
Tony, All,

Here is another way I do things.

If I need a angled cut to a known degree on sheet goods.

I set a Johnson adjustable square with a digital angle unit, then draw a pencil line.

You can find these for around 20 bucks if you look.

It is also way beefier then a standard drywall square, never goes out and is easily transportable.

Per
 
Per,

      That was going to be the next ave. if I did'nt like the other thing . Thanx!
 
JayStPeter said:
I turned the "Angle Unit" into a "Square Unit".  I posted how HERE.

BTW, all you need is a pencil to get a square speed square.  Just take it over to the MDF pile and check it by drawing a line, then flip and make sure it aligns exactly.  The piece on top usually has chunks out of it anyway, so if anyone is fool enough to buy it they'll have to live with some pencil lines on it also  :P.  My experience is that most of them are square, so you don't have to test many.  Carpenters squares on the other hand ...
 
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