stair tread problem

[Tim Sproul]

I want to install wood stair treads but the existing woodwork under the balusters is problematic for me.

My thought at this point is to try and make a jig/guide and use a Fein Multimaster to cut the roundover part off.  Butt the tread against the now square woodwork.  I've never seen the woodwork rounded over where it meets the carpet.  Coving or mitering the tread to allow it to fit over the roundover was considered but I'd think it is going to be prone to cracking/chipping/splitting over time.

Anyone ever run into this and solve it?  Removing the existing woodwork is possible......although not preferable.  By a long shot.

Tim

 

[score0matic]

so what i am looking at here is the first step.  the landing/floor is tiled  Each step has this rounded wood base for the balusters?  is this right?

and this detail is the same for every step?

how many steps?

 

[score0matic]

if my previous assumptions are correct in my opinion you are better going off into your discomfort zone and taking down the handrail (it is not that hard and we can talk you through it if this is what you choose).  It will be easier for you to make new full size treads and drill for the balustrade (use the ole for templates) finish out the stairs and reattach the hand rail. than for you to custom work around each step and make each one match up.
Some times doing things the hard way right off is the easiest in the end.

Hope this helps
Craig

 

[Rick Christopherson]

You will never match the appearance of the existing parts, so I would not try. Keep the new treads below the height of the roundover, and let the roundover be the transition to the tread. You have some height to work with due to the thickness of the carpet, but keep in mind that the treads do not need to be full thickness, as they are primarily cosmetic covering to the main tread hidden below the carpet. The nose on the front of the tread is just like your kitchen counter, in that it gives the appearance that the tread is thicker than it really is.

 

[peter halle]

This may be a stupid question, but do you know what is under the carpet?  What is the existing tread material?

 

[Brice Burrell]

This may be a stupid question, but do you know what is under the carpet?  What is the existing tread material?

Better yet, do you have access to the underside of the stairs? If this is an old staircase you might be able to pull the treads fairly easily. Just a few wedges and nails.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

and a better picture, please that made my eyes cross.

 

[peter halle]

Darcy,

Thanks.  I thought it was just me  [eek]

Peter

 

[Tim Sproul]

so what i am looking at here is the first step.   the landing/floor is tiled   Each step has this rounded wood base for the balusters?  is this right?  Yes.

and this detail is the same for every step?  Pretty much.  Some steps end with drywall.

how many steps? I'm looking at 14 for one staircase.  And ~20 for another staircase.

 

[Tim Sproul]

Here are a couple more pictures:

The existing tile will be removed and wood flooring installed in its place.

Under the stairs is an engineered tread.  1 1/16" thickness with a bullnose.  The dark stained woodwork is directly on top of this.  I could get under the stairs but only by cutting out drywall...........

Rick C.  I'm not trying to match the existing stain/color.  I just want a sound butt joint between the tread I will install and the existing woodwork.  If this can't happen, I may be forced to remove the existing woodwork.

RE:  removal of the existing woodwork.  That is fine....until I look at the newels that are on top of this floor level woodwork.  I've never done stairs but my understanding is that the newels probably go through a mortise in the floor level stained woodwork and are attached to the framing that is hidden by the stairs/drywall.  The newel typically has a tenon with shoulders too.....which makes it complicated to just remove the floor level woodwork while leaving the newels in place.  Possible, but still not exactly easy unless stairs are built differently that what I understand.  I'm not thrown by the curve along the top of one stairway....just the prospect of having to replace the newels and the handrails.  The iron balusters are easily saved but I'd really like to avoid replacing the newels and handrails.

 

[Tim Sproul]

If this is an old staircase you might be able to pull the treads fairly easily. Just a few wedges and nails.

My house was built 5-6 years ago.  I'm pretty sure they used a urethane adhesive and fasteners.......I'm already aware that removal of the existing tread will require sawing.

 

[Forrest Anderson]

Tim

I hope you don't mind, but I've taken the liberty of enhancing one of your photos so that more detail in the shadows can be seen:

[attachimg=1]

If you don't like your "remastered" version, I'll naturally remove it, but I think that members will find it helpful.

Forrest

 

[Tim Sproul]

Forrest,

That's fine and a thank you for doing it.

Any further input  from the peanut gallery now that more pics are up?

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

I think the 'skirt' at the bottome of the balister's may be a cover held in place with a set screw. 

I am afraid to make that job look good, you are going to have to dis-assemble those steps. 

 

[mwildt]

I think the 'skirt' at the bottome of the balister's may be a cover held in place with a set screw. 

I am afraid to make that job look good, you are going to have to dis-assemble those steps. 

Just to add;
Did you think about what to do at the upper 'landing' ? If you're doing the steps then you'll have to do something at the top else it wouldn't match after my opinion.

 

[tDot]

If you dont want to pull the wood off and if there is enough depth to the wood that is already installed on the stair and the kick, could you route a dado that the wood flooring would return under?  This would hide any wood movement in the flooring.  I dont know how thick the flooring is either, but if there is enough of a height difference between the two materials, it might work.  The spindles could be removed, and you could use the multimaster to finish any little areas that you couldn't get with the router. Those spindles pop out pretty easy.  A little grub screw holds those covers on, and then the mounting pins just unscrew.

That stair looks new enough that it is probably glued together, it would probably be a mess to pull apart, though to make it look the best, that would be the way, then you could re-use the handrail , spindles and newel posts.  The spindles are pretty easy to cut shorter with a zip disk, if needed.