Starting point for 80/20 design . . .

[grbmds]

I'm considering building either a second MFT size table to use in conjunction with my existing MFT or building an MFT-type table about twice the size of an MFT but not sure which at this point. While I have searched for answers to the following questions within the FOG I haven't found them so I'm looking for answers or references on the FOG or other resources:

1. Is there 80/20 hardware or a commbination of 80/20 and Festool hardware available which would allow an interface to connect a Festool MFT with another table constructed from 80/20?

2. Is there a particular type/size or profile of 80/20 that works best for making an MFT type table?

I'm just looking for a starting point to make comparisons in cost between buying another MFT and making an auxiliary table to interface with my existing MFT.

 

[Tom the Remodeler]

Hi Randy!

I’m in the process of building an Alpha version of my own 80/20 portable table.

I’m planning on having the table surface be separate from the legs. Candidates for legs are the Rockwell Jawstand (2x) and/or a pair of Reechcraft Broncos.

For extrusion, I’m most familiar with the 1530 size, though I’m considering using the 40-series (metric) extrusions, pending confirmation that the Festool clamps work in the t-tracks.

My intention is to carry a pair of DIY tables in lieu of the three MFT/Kapex tables I’m currently carrying.

Approximate size is currently ~21” x 60”, though I may shorten the length pending results from the Alpha tests.

 

[Cheese]

Hey Tom, I’ve built with both the 1530 & the 40 series. Festool clamps fit both extrusions.

 

[Tom the Remodeler]

Hey Tom, I’ve built with both the 1530 & the 40 series. Festool clamps fit both extrusions.

Thanks Cheese!

 

[Cheese]

FWIW...here's a shot of my bench downstairs, it's rather small but works well 70% of the time.

[attachimg=1]

However, for some projects, I just plain need more space. Presently I'm refinishing a Simpson full view exterior door so I also need something that's sturdy. My solution was to build a simple 80/20 structure that would attach to the bench easily, yet be easily stowed underneath the bench when it's not in use.

[attachimg=2]

Each leg has a side rail attached but they fold flat. The front rail has connectors attached and that's it. 3 pieces to store that will fit along with the MFT top, under the existing bench.

Maybe this approach will work for others. One table that's portable and then 1 or 2 extra wings that can be added to the table. This results in fewer pieces to haul around and fewer to store.

[attachimg=3]

[attachimg=4]

[attachimg=5]

[attachimg=6]

[attachimg=7]

 

[BarneyD]

Great idea [member=44099]Cheese[/member] and nice execution. Some food for thought surely.

In the bottom pic you have what appears to be HP 11-C on the bench (near the CXS). True? I still have mine and I swear it's still running on the original batteries. What a great calculator.

Cheers,
Barney

 

[Cheese]

Great idea [member=44099]Cheese[/member] and nice execution. Some food for thought surely.

In the bottom pic you have what appears to be HP 11-C on the bench (near the CXS). True? I still have mine and I swear it's still running on the original batteries. What a great calculator.

Cheers,
Barney

Thanks Barney  [smile]  You're right, that is an 11-C. I purchased it when they first came out, how long ago was that?  [eek] Probably over 30 years ago!!  I used it every day for work and over all that time I think I've changed out the batteries 3 or 4 times.

I wonder how many millions of button pushes have been registered over the years.  [thumbs up]  When this one craps out I'll be devastated. [crying] [crying] [crying]

 

[BarneyD]

Cheese, I still have my original manual for the 11-c. It was published in February of 1981. So you might be a little light on the 30 years. And yeah, I'll also be devastated when mine dies. I even bought one of those Swiss Micros 11-C clones as a backup. But it's just not the same. Key presses are too hard compared to HP's. BTW, I still have my original HP35 (perhaps 1973). And it still works. But IMO you just can't beat the 11-C.

Cheers,
Barney

 

[grbmds]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] From you pictures, it appears that your top is flush with the frame. Since I wish to use the additional table (a whole new table if that's what I do) as a surface to cut on just like the MFT, the top would need to be raised just like the MFT top is. So, questions about your pictures . . .

1. Is there a way to mount a top which is exposed like the MFT top is with that particular hardware?
2. Is that hardware 80/20? (I'm not familiar with their products so just wanted to make sure I was looking in the right place.)

 

[BarneyD]

Randy,

A while ago I called 8020 and asked them to send me one of their big catalogs, which they happily did. Lots of good ideas in there. But it's a bit overwhelming since it's like 900 pages long. But a valuable resource that you might enjoy.

Good luck,
Barney

 

[Cheese]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] From you pictures, it appears that your top is flush with the frame. Since I wish to use the additional table (a whole new table if that's what I do) as a surface to cut on just like the MFT, the top would need to be raised just like the MFT top is. So, questions about your pictures . . .

1. Is there a way to mount a top which is exposed like the MFT top is with that particular hardware?
2. Is that hardware 80/20? (I'm not familiar with their products so just wanted to make sure I was looking in the right place.)

In the second photo, look to where the rails come together by the Vac Sys. There's a small triangular connector that attaches to each leg with 2 setscrews. I used 18mm BB for the MFT top and it rests solidly on each of those connectors in each corner. It's about .100"-.120" proud of the 80/20 surface.

However, I wanted the surface of the MFT to be flush with the surface of the wooden workbench so I could slide things around easily between the 2 surfaces. Therefore I routed a small triangular recess .100"-.120" deep in each corner of the MFT so the surface would be level with the 80/20 rail.

If you want more height between the MFT surface and the 80/20 rail (more than .100"-.120"), you could make the MFT top slightly oversize and then rout in a dado around the bottom surface. That way the MFT becomes a "plug" and you can make the height whatever you want.  [smile]

Yes those are 80/20 connectors, for this project everything used was 40 series components.

Like [member=61023]BarneyD[/member]  suggested, call and ask for an 80/20 catalog. It gives you a lot better idea as to what the components are, how they're used and how they fasten to each other. The website is great for people that have worked a lot with the product but if you're new to it, you'll never find what you're looking for.

I've been using this stuff for over 20 years and I still need the 900 page catalog to locate some of the items.

 

[Cheese]

Cheese, I still have my original manual for the 11-c. It was published in February of 1981. So you might be a little light on the 30 years. And yeah, I'll also be devastated when mine dies. I even bought one of those Swiss Micros 11-C clones as a backup. But it's just not the same. Key presses are too hard compared to HP's. BTW, I still have my original HP35 (perhaps 1973). And it still works. But IMO you just can't beat the 11-C.

Barney...my aching back...then that 11-C is 38 years old.  [jawdrop] [jawdrop] 

I always wanted a HP35 but at the time I think they were priced in the $300-$400 region. I couldn't afford that. It was the equivalent of 5-6 months of car payments at the time. My boss purchased one and he was the envy of the office. [not worthy]

Interestingly enough that $300-$400 is the equivalent today of $1700-$2300.

 

[grbmds]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] Since you worked with 80/20 for awhile, you might know, is there any way to interface 80/20 hardware with Festool hardware? I know the profiles of the tracks are different and proprietary to each company but just asking if you knew.

 

[Cheese]

Hey Randy, I don’t know the answer to that one because I don’t own a “real” MFT.

Initially I’d say there probably is but that may involve machining the MFT extrusion, the 80/20 extrusion or both.

 

[grbmds]

Hey Randy, I don’t know the answer to that one because I don’t own a “real” MFT.

Initially I’d say there probably is but that may involve machining the MFT extrusion, the 80/20 extrusion or both.

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] The word machining pretty much makes that a bit unrealistic for me. Maybe if it was wood, yeah, but aluminum...don't think so, but I will look into what it takes.

 

[grbmds]

I have not purchased this product, but it might be useful for connecting an 80/20 bench design to a Festool MFT/3.
http://www.multiblades.com/mft3.html

[member=67413]box185[/member] Seems like this bracket is mainly made for an MFT extension where a sheet is added on rather than another table made from 80/20 but I will keep it in mind. Since I don't know what I will finally do, it might fit into my plans at some point. Thanks.

 

[rmwarren]

Some time back I noticed that you can hook the t-slot of 1515 ULS over the edge of the MFT V-extrusion and it sits nicely level right about 1/2" below the MFT top. If your top of the 8020 extension sits 1/2" proud of the 1515 it is then level with the MFT top.

[attachimg=1]

Some yapping about it on this thread.

RMW

 

[simonh]

I built an outdoor kitchen from Bosch Rexroth (the same sort of thing as 80/20). It's pretty impressive once you get to grips with the catalogue and possibilities. I used acrylic panels and clean-room seals etc. Fully waterproof cupboards and drawers!

My workshop stuff is all based around the Festool profile for compatibility. I end up looking up things on EKAT and ordering them as spare parts. But it's not as flexible and very expensive. If I had my time again...

 

[Michael Kellough]

I built an outdoor kitchen from Bosch Rexroth (the same sort of thing as 80/20). It's pretty impressive once you get to grips with the catalogue and possibilities. I used acrylic panels and clean-room seals etc. Fully waterproof cupboards and drawers!

My workshop stuff is all based around the Festool profile for compatibility. I end up looking up things on EKAT and ordering them as spare parts. But it's not as flexible and very expensive. If I had my time again...

Before I knew about 80/20 (maybe before they started) I used Bosch stuff. The Bosch catalog was way more rationally organized than 80/20 is. Also loved the name of the catalog, “Basic Mechanical Elements”.

 

[Cheese]

Some time back I noticed that you can hook the t-slot of 1515 ULS over the edge of the MFT V-extrusion and it sits nicely level right about 1/2" below the MFT top. If your top of the 8020 extension sits 1/2" proud of the 1515 it is then level with the MFT top.

Well that's nice to know Richard... [smile]

So...make the 80/20 frame
Hook it over the lip of the MFT
Unfold the legs
Place the 3/4" thick MFT "plug" that has a 1/4" dado on the bottom in the 80/20 frame
It should be good to go...a place to start anyways.  [big grin]