Stopped dadoes using a router

[bionicus]

Is there a reason the horizontal edging plate doesn't allow for a lower cutting depth? I don't have a router table, so today, thinking about ways to make a stopped groove/dado in cabinet door stiles to accept a 1/4" panel, it occurred to me that the edging plate attachment and a simple upspiral bit could possibly solve the problem quite nicely. Then I went to try it out only to find that you can't lower the bit more than an 1/8" or so into the face of the stile. Was this intentionally made impossible because it's bad technique/dangerous/stupid?

Second question: Is using a slot cutter in my OF1010 to achieve the same result also a dumb idea? I bounced the idea off this old guy down the street and he basically walked away insulted. A real pleasant man..

 

[Wonderwino]

Not to hijack the thread, but is there a reason the horizontal edging plate doesn't allow for a lower cutting depth? I don't have a router table, so today, thinking about ways to make a stopped groove/dado in cabinet door stiles to accept a 1/4" panel, it occurred to me that the edging plate attachment and a simple upspiral bit could possibly solve the problem quite nicely. Then I went to try it out only to find that you can't lower the bit more than an 1/8" or so into the face of the stile. Was this intentionally made impossible because it's bad technique/dangerous/stupid?

Second question: Is using a slot cutter in my OF1010 to achieve the same result also a dumb idea? I bounced the idea off this old guy down the street and he basically walked away insulted. A real pleasant man..

The Festool plexiglass template is specifically suited to this job.  Part #495246.

We were able to play work with this in the April class.  I was very impressed with the quality and precision of it compared to shop-made jigs I had seen in the past.

 

[fshanno]

Not to hijack the thread, but is there a reason the horizontal edging plate doesn't allow for a lower cutting depth? I don't have a router table, so today, thinking about ways to make a stopped groove/dado in cabinet door stiles to accept a 1/4" panel, it occurred to me that the edging plate attachment and a simple upspiral bit could possibly solve the problem quite nicely. Then I went to try it out only to find that you can't lower the bit more than an 1/8" or so into the face of the stile. Was this intentionally made impossible because it's bad technique/dangerous/stupid?

Second question: Is using a slot cutter in my OF1010 to achieve the same result also a dumb idea? I bounced the idea off this old guy down the street and he basically walked away insulted. A real pleasant man..

So if you don't have a router table how are you making your doors?  M&T?  Domino?  

One of the Festool Sysnotes things floated the idea of using two edge guides sort of facing each other.  Looked like a cool idea, I'm sure you can find it here on the FOG.  Way cheaper than the plastic thing which is over $200.

Why wouldn't a slot cutter work?  You could sort of clamp the door together with clamping elements or something and route the slots in all four parts in one operation.  You might need to cut off the corners of your panel to accommodate the rounding.  I'm an old guy too but I think it might work.  Use whatever bearing you need for the depth of your slot.  I think I might try it myself.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

One of the Festool Sysnotes things floated the idea of using two edge guides sort of facing each other.  Looked like a cool idea, I'm sure you can find it here on the FOG.  Way cheaper than the plastic thing which is over $200.

Check it out here:

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/an-alternative-to-the-plexiglas-template-routing-aid/

 

[bionicus]

So if you don't have a router table how are you making your doors?  M&T?  Domino?  

One of the Festool Sysnotes things floated the idea of using two edge guides sort of facing each other.  Looked like a cool idea, I'm sure you can find it here on the FOG.  Way cheaper than the plastic thing which is over $200.

Why wouldn't a slot cutter work?  You could sort of clamp the door together with clamping elements or something and route the slots in all four parts in one operation.  You might need to cut off the corners of your panel to accommodate the rounding.  I'm an old guy too but I think it might work.  Use whatever bearing you need for the depth of your slot.  I think I might try it myself.

Yeah the rails and stiles would be Domino'd. If I stick with the plan I'll be going for a very clean-look shaker door, square edges everywhere. Your idea on the slot cutter and rounded panel corners was exactly what I had in mind before being told a couple times not to slot-cut without a table. I don't have much routing experience so I figured there must be sound reasoning to the warning.

But I'm going to try it anyway. Dry fit the Dominos, secure with clamping elements/Qwas dogs, maybe double-stick tape an undersized piece of the same thickness for added support inside the entire frame, and route. This should work.

 

[tjbnwi]

If you have a table saw set the board on edge and slot in 2 passes.

If not slot cutter is the answer to this problem.

Tom

 

[bionicus]

If you have a table saw set the board on edge and slot in 2 passes.

Yeah, but then you'll have that tiny 1/4" square gap showing, top and bottom, where the stiles meet the rails.

 

[tjbnwi]

Not if you use stops on the saw, just do not run all the way through on the stiles only the rails. Takes a little set up but it can be done.

It does require you to remove the guard so be very careful.

Tom

 

[mouppe]

I used a slot cutter on a router without a table- just be careful, slow the speed right down to maybe 12k rpm and take multiple passes. I was cutting a slot along the side of my 6' workbench to take a spline and it was fine.

Richard.

 

[fshanno]

Yeah the rails and stiles would be Domino'd. If I stick with the plan I'll be going for a very clean-look shaker door, square edges everywhere. Your idea on the slot cutter and rounded panel corners was exactly what I had in mind before being told a couple times not to slot-cut without a table. I don't have much routing experience so I figured there must be sound reasoning to the warning.

But I'm going to try it anyway. Dry fit the Dominos, secure with clamping elements/Qwas dogs, maybe double-stick tape an undersized piece of the same thickness for added support inside the entire frame, and route. This should work.

Good old Domi-doors. It takes quite a bit longer than simple cope and stick but worth it's to the discerning eye.  The problem is that your eye may be the only discerning one for miles.  But that's par for the course.  They'll nod and say, "Ooooh  Yeaaaa."  But they're thinking, "What's he talking about?"

[attachimg=1]

Is it worth the extra work?  If you went with stub tenons you could cut the whole thing on the table saw.  Hmmm.  Yea, it's worth it.