Storing my TSO MTR-18

[Mark Katz]

I recently acquired the TSO MTR-18. The accessory parts come in a foam insert that fits in a systainer3, which is great, but where to store main item itself? It's huge - 18" on each leg and about 25" on the hypotenuse.

I have several guide rails mounted on my garage door with Fastcap Track Racks and thought I could work up a solution with those but they are just not the right fit.

Pictured is my solution. The bottom rail has a groove to accept the hypotenuse of the square. The upper block is two pieces of 1/4" plywood laminated after cutting out the triangle section to accept the tip. A couple of turn buttons (Sea Dog Marine windsheild latches) hold it securely in place.
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[Mortiser]

I like it Mark. Is there "frame" metal behind the skin of the door to support the screws for the shelf section?

 

[Mark Katz]

I like it Mark. Is there "frame" metal behind the skin of the door to support the screws for the shelf section?

No, not that I know of. It's an R16 insulated door so most of the inside would be closed-cell foam. I used #8 sheet metal screws which extend about 1/2" through the skin into the foam. The bottom rail is very secure and I have no worries of the screws pulling out. The MTR-18, and for that matter the Festool guide rails, don't weigh all that much.

 

[Bugsysiegals]

I've been storing my Festool FS 3000/2 rail in my basement woodshop but break down sheet goods in the garage so I have to transport it back and forth every time ... it's getting really old ... so is hauling the vacuum ... maybe I need another! 

I'm considering mounting some 3D printed clips to the backside of my garage door for the guide rail and perhaps even my Track Tubes but am not familiar with garage door sheet metal thickness/strength ... do you think the sheet metal screws could hold these up? 

Otherwise, I can design and print some clips that stretch between 2 hinge points, using the existing 2 bolts of each hinge, and have the built-in recesses and latches to release the rail and or tubes?

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I've been storing my Festool FS 3000/2 rail in my basement woodshop but break down sheet goods in the garage so I have to transport it back and forth every time ... it's getting really old ... so is hauling the vacuum ... maybe I need another! 

You definitely do  [big grin]
I bought a CT15 a few weeks ago, for a similar reason. I keep a CT26 at one end of my assembly table. It is in somewhat of a garage and a slight pain to unplug/move around. The second one is at the other end of the area and it became the "mobile" one.

 

[afish]

I've been storing my Festool FS 3000/2 rail in my basement woodshop but break down sheet goods in the garage so I have to transport it back and forth every time ... it's getting really old ... so is hauling the vacuum ... maybe I need another! 

I'm considering mounting some 3D printed clips to the backside of my garage door for the guide rail and perhaps even my Track Tubes but am not familiar with garage door sheet metal thickness/strength ... do you think the sheet metal screws could hold these up? 

Otherwise, I can design and print some clips that stretch between 2 hinge points, using the existing 2 bolts of each hinge, and have the built-in recesses and latches to release the rail and or tubes?

I would say just use some good adhesive behind whatever you screw to the door. If you are 3d printing your own stuff you can also enlarge the face that contacts the door for more adhesive surface area.  some 100% silicone or some good PL construction glue with urathane will make just about anything stick so well you probably cant remove it without damage.

 

[Bugsysiegals]

I've been storing my Festool FS 3000/2 rail in my basement woodshop but break down sheet goods in the garage so I have to transport it back and forth every time ... it's getting really old ... so is hauling the vacuum ... maybe I need another! 

You definitely do  [big grin]
I bought a CT15 a few weeks ago, for a similar reason. I keep a CT26 at one end of my assembly table. It is in somewhat of a garage and a slight pain to unplug/move around. The second one is at the other end of the area and it became the "mobile" one.

Thanks!  I have the Kapex also and while I’m not traveling with it at the moment I read there’s a version that fits underneath it. I’m not sure which version it is and probably doesn’t matter since I’m not a contractor hard up for space so I’ll check into the CT 26!

 

[Bugsysiegals]

I've been storing my Festool FS 3000/2 rail in my basement woodshop but break down sheet goods in the garage so I have to transport it back and forth every time ... it's getting really old ... so is hauling the vacuum ... maybe I need another! 

I'm considering mounting some 3D printed clips to the backside of my garage door for the guide rail and perhaps even my Track Tubes but am not familiar with garage door sheet metal thickness/strength ... do you think the sheet metal screws could hold these up? 

Otherwise, I can design and print some clips that stretch between 2 hinge points, using the existing 2 bolts of each hinge, and have the built-in recesses and latches to release the rail and or tubes?

I would say just use some good adhesive behind whatever you screw to the door. If you are 3d printing your own stuff you can also enlarge the face that contacts the door for more adhesive surface area.  some 100% silicone or some good PL construction glue with urathane will make just about anything stick so well you probably cant remove it without damage.

Thanks!  I’d considered some adhesive as well but was considering whether it could be removed or not if I sell the house. It would be nice to remove the brackets and just leave a few screw heads than the brackets but I guess nobody is going to not buy the house because of some brackets.

 

[afish]

correct, but you could print some base plates in white with some type of nut insert and glue attach that to the door. them screw the holders to the plates using the inserts. that way if you remove the brackets you would just have some white plates on the door that would blend in and almost disappear on a white door. most likely I doubt anyone would even notice them unless you point it out. if someone does complain about something something so insignificant its better to find another buyer as experience has taugjt me they would be a PITA to work with anyways.

 

[Bugsysiegals]

correct, but you could print some base plates in white with some type of nut insert and glue attach that to the door. them screw the holders to the plates using the inserts. that way if you remove the brackets you would just have some white plates on the door that would blend in and almost disappear on a white door. most likely I doubt anyone would even notice them unless you point it out. if someone does complain about something something so insignificant its better to find another buyer as experience has taugjt me they would be a PITA to work with anyways.

I love your idea to print them in White and with the threaded insert … excellent idea, thanks for the feedback.