Straight edge for joining guide rails
- Thread starter JCLP
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Who needs to join rails? Just buy the 16 footer like i did:
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/what-do-you-do-with-a-long-guard-rail/msg315137/#msg315137
But seriously I use the edge of my 78" level when I need to join them up. I like the Betterly stuff, but I just can't see spending that kind of money for that tool. I'd rather put it towards more green kool-aid.
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/what-do-you-do-with-a-long-guard-rail/msg315137/#msg315137
But seriously I use the edge of my 78" level when I need to join them up. I like the Betterly stuff, but I just can't see spending that kind of money for that tool. I'd rather put it towards more green kool-aid.
I have a fair number of rails for both shop and field work. I admit that I have a contrarion view from both Festool and experienced users here, but here's what I do and why:
I immediately trim the end of the new rail slightly (perhaps a 1/16", or less )with a perfectly tuned chop saw. (kapex). Now I know that the rail ends are at true 90 degree angles to the long length of the rails.
When I attach my trimmed multiple rails together, I simply make sure there are no gaps between the rail ends during assembly. If the attached rail ends are tight and properly attached, the long sides must be straight.
I find this system to be just as accurate and certainly quicker than utilizing an additional straight edge for alignment.
It seems to me that utilizing a single straight edge to align two additional straight edges while tightening holding screws might be a bit more prone to mishap.
Just my take, Dan
I immediately trim the end of the new rail slightly (perhaps a 1/16", or less )with a perfectly tuned chop saw. (kapex). Now I know that the rail ends are at true 90 degree angles to the long length of the rails.
When I attach my trimmed multiple rails together, I simply make sure there are no gaps between the rail ends during assembly. If the attached rail ends are tight and properly attached, the long sides must be straight.
I find this system to be just as accurate and certainly quicker than utilizing an additional straight edge for alignment.
It seems to me that utilizing a single straight edge to align two additional straight edges while tightening holding screws might be a bit more prone to mishap.
Just my take, Dan
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I'm pretty certain none of them are at 90 degrees from the factory. I'm guessing it's a moving cut.
Tom
Tom
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Dan Rush said:
The only downside I see to this was mentioned when I asked about milling holes in the FS5000 rail to reduce the weight, and that is that you lose whatever anodizing or finish was on the end of the rail. Personally I don't see it as a big deal, but have you found any real-life issues with it? How many years has it been since your oldest rail was trimmed?
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It class they also tell you to gap the rails hen using the connectors. This goes along with what Dan wrote.
Peter
Peter
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There's also a graphic on the guide rail boxes that shows using a gap when connecting them.
Tom
Tom
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This is one of those situations where I probably shouldn't post because I risk insulting or angering some. That is certainly not my intent. So here goes:
Everyone reading this except for the spammers and bots is a woodworker of some sort. We make jigs and use tools with all sorts of capabilities and the results posted here are proudly posted, commented on, and admired.
If you don't want to use a level, or a straight edge, to align your rails, rather than buying an aftermarket jig to do so, why don't you spend a couple minutes in the morning over a cup of coffee and look at the situation and figure out how to take a piece of stable material and route a groove that will fit the raised portion of the rails and align them so that the screws can be tightened or come up with something similar. Isn't this the type of stuff we all purchased our tools to do?
Again, sorry for the forcefulness of my post. No harm intended.
Peter
Peter
Everyone reading this except for the spammers and bots is a woodworker of some sort. We make jigs and use tools with all sorts of capabilities and the results posted here are proudly posted, commented on, and admired.
If you don't want to use a level, or a straight edge, to align your rails, rather than buying an aftermarket jig to do so, why don't you spend a couple minutes in the morning over a cup of coffee and look at the situation and figure out how to take a piece of stable material and route a groove that will fit the raised portion of the rails and align them so that the screws can be tightened or come up with something similar. Isn't this the type of stuff we all purchased our tools to do?
Again, sorry for the forcefulness of my post. No harm intended.
Peter
Peter
mouppe
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JCLP said:
Normally, I use a 36" straight edge from Lee Valley but when I don't have it to hand I've also ripped a straight edge on a piece of lumber or plywood and used that on the back of the rail (after making sure it's truly straight).
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,240,45313&p=56676
Daver
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I bought the Betterley straight line connector and am very happy with it.
It makes perfect sense to get a long rail and mount it on the inside of your garage door or on your shop wall, if that's your setup.
In fact, if that's the case, I'd stop reading right now and go to 7corners.com and order one of their 197" rails on closeout while they still have them.
In my case, I live in NYC and mobility/space is key. It's not uncommon to use the subway or a taxi for a job if necessary.
My workflow here is such that it's advantageous for me to have rails of differing lengths and join them based on the task at hand.
To that end, I've found the Betterley SLC 23 to be a very useful tool that gives me great confidence that every connection is as dead straight as the manufacturing tolerance of the rails will allow.
I highly recommend it.
It's $100 but has paid for itself many times over... kind of like the rest of these green tools which are such a joy to use.
Dave
It makes perfect sense to get a long rail and mount it on the inside of your garage door or on your shop wall, if that's your setup.
In fact, if that's the case, I'd stop reading right now and go to 7corners.com and order one of their 197" rails on closeout while they still have them.
In my case, I live in NYC and mobility/space is key. It's not uncommon to use the subway or a taxi for a job if necessary.
My workflow here is such that it's advantageous for me to have rails of differing lengths and join them based on the task at hand.
To that end, I've found the Betterley SLC 23 to be a very useful tool that gives me great confidence that every connection is as dead straight as the manufacturing tolerance of the rails will allow.
I highly recommend it.
It's $100 but has paid for itself many times over... kind of like the rest of these green tools which are such a joy to use.
Dave
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Daver said:In fact, if that's the case, I'd stop reading right now and go to 7corners.com and order one of their 197" rails on closeout while they still have them.
Dave
Sorry, they only had ONE left and it's now in my shop!
[big grin]
I posted about it here, along with some info on what they have left:
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/what-do-you-do-with-a-long-guard-rail/msg315137/#msg315137
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