Straight Line Rips with TS 75/55

L.Murphy

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Joined
Apr 25, 2016
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8
The TS 55 and TS 75 are advertised as being capable of producing "perfectly straight cuts" and "glue ready edges". This looks promising to me. I build lots of tables. I have a jointer and table saw. I'm not looking to replace either. I'm in the market for something that that compliments both. I'm hoping that using a track saw might speed up the process of dimensioning lumber.

My questions for the Forum-

Can the TS75 or 55 produce an edge that is as good, or better than an edge from a jointer?

How many of you actually use your track saw instead of a jointer for edges?

Do you find that is is faster to straighten an edge with a tracksaw instead of using a jointer and any other tools (bandsaw etc etc). 

Thanks!
 
I use my Festool track saws to straight line rip lumber. I do run the edges on the jointer before glue up.
Using the track saws is a lot faster at straighting the lumber than just doing in on a jointer. One rip cut with the track saw & one pass on the jointer.  I do not do any edge glue ups that the edges have not gone over a jointer first.
 
L.Murphy said:
1) Can the TS75 or 55 produce an edge that is as good, or better than an edge from a jointer?
2) How many of you actually use your track saw instead of a jointer for edges?

1) No, but its adequate for glue up without further preparation in most cases.
2) I do.
 
Thanks Everyone. Usually, I joint one edge, then use the table saw to get the other edge parallel. Do the ts55/75 produce an edge that is similar to an edge from a table saw? 
 
L.Murphy said:
Do the ts55/75 produce an edge that is similar to an edge from a table saw?
Yes, it's similar to good quality table saw. You'll obviously have tooth marks, but the edge is very straight or rather planar. Sometimes, when the board is crooked I touch it up with plane. But in most cases it goes straight to gluing.

P.S. I should clarify about "crooked" board. The saw cuts 90 (or whatever you setup) degree to the plane of the track. If your board looks like propeller, the track and saw will follow that. But as I mentioned it is rarely a problem.
 
At least as good as a table saw, if not better IMO.

Remember, Festool has a great 30-day money back guarantee so you can buy it and try it for yourself. No number of responses here are a substitute for putting your hands on the saw. But, we do have very good forum members here with a lot of firsthand experience.

Shane
 
Tayler_mann said:
My TS55 is fan freaking tactic. I never use a jointer ever.

Let me update that a little. I do use a jointer sometimes if it is 8/4 material. Sometimes the cut is ever so slightly off.
 
L.Murphy said:
Shane, the problem with getting my hands on the saw is that they wont come off easily.

Maybe that was my plan all along.  [poke] [big grin]
 
  I achieve glue ready edges with my TS55 and a Panther blade....

I made a video......wanna see it ?    [tongue]



Eric
 
I use my track saw for glue ready joints 90% of the time. Occasionally I'll be making something that I want to/justifies making sure I'm going the whole hog for the customer and will also pass across the joiner to make sure the edge is absolutely perfect before gluing.

One consideration that does spring to mind though is the track length. I use a Bosch track saw that utilises Mafell tracks and as such two tracks can be joined together with perfect accuracy. However, it has been reported here that the Festool track joining connector isn't quite as idiot proof and if you're not careful can be knocked out of alignment or misaligned quite easily, so aftermarket connectors exist that do a better job, but still not as good as the Mafell system.

So if you do go down this route with Festool, then you'll probably have to have longer tracks and not rely on joining smaller tracks if your main priority is best possible quality of cut for gluing. If you want smaller tracks for ease of transport or storage, you might consider the Bosch or Mafell saws/tracks instead.
 
erock said:
I achieve glue ready edges with my TS55 and a Panther blade....

Rather than cutting one board on top of another, once sized, I always put the two panels side-by-side and use the rail positioned to make sure that the blade dissects the line taking a little off the edge of each board. That way, any slight "out of 90 degree" issues fade away and the boards will fit together with no gaps at all as you don't need to turn or flip them.
 
GarryMartin said:
erock said:
I achieve glue ready edges with my TS55 and a Panther blade....

Rather than cutting one board on top of another, once sized, I always put the two panels side-by-side and use the rail positioned to make sure that the blade dissects the line taking a little off the edge of each board. That way, any slight "out of 90 degree" issues fade away and the boards will fit together with no gaps at all as you don't need to turn or flip them.

I also do this quite frequently as well.
 
GarryMartin said:
erock said:
I achieve glue ready edges with my TS55 and a Panther blade....

Rather than cutting one board on top of another, once sized, I always put the two panels side-by-side and use the rail positioned to make sure that the blade dissects the line taking a little off the edge of each board. That way, any slight "out of 90 degree" issues fade away and the boards will fit together with no gaps at all as you don't need to turn or flip them.

This is how I join solid surface tops. I have created invisible glue lines with this method and the ss/laminate blade.
 
L.Murphy said:
1.  Can the TS75 or 55 produce an edge that is as good, or better than an edge from a jointer?
2.  How many of you actually use your track saw instead of a jointer for edges?
3.  Do you find that is is faster to straighten an edge with a tracksaw instead of using a jointer and any other tools (bandsaw etc etc).

1.  Not really.  TS equals table saw.  Jointer is the next level up.  Imagine you were making a table top with straight side edges.  Would you leave those edges directly off the table saw or TS?  Or would you run those table edges over the jointer?  Even if you glue up all the inner edges straight off the table saw or TS, just fine, the outside edge where you touch would likely get a higher treatment.
2. & 3.  I use the track saw to straight line rip the edge of the board before it goes through the table saw or jointer.  Cut off the crooked non straight edge so it is straight and smooth enough to ride against the table saw fence.  I never use the jointer to straighten a very crooked edge.  Always use a saw to get a straight edge first, then the jointer to refine, smooth the edge.
 
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