Stripped screw hole in chipboard

LB Floors

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Aug 9, 2014
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Hey lads,  my 18 month old hung off one of my kitchen cupboard doors and ripped the hinge right out of the chipboard.  The holes are only just slightly bigger than the screws which is rather lucky.

So I'm looking for a fix. Has anyone been successful without relocating the holes? 

I know this is a big off topic but more people watch the Festool how to discussions than off-topic discussions so I have more of a chance of finding someone who knows how I can fix it...  I suppose it might not be off-topic if I ask whether I should use my CSX, my DRC 18, or my BHC 18 to do the job  [tongue]

Thanks in advance
Josh
 
Fill the holes with wood glue (PVA), gently tighten the screw and wait till the glue dries before putting any load on the screw.

If the hole is excessive after filling with glue insert wooden plug such as a match, wait till it dries, trim flush and fit screw.

Also works well if you have to readjust the location of a screw slightly.
 
Bohdan said:
Fill the holes with wood glue (PVA), gently tighten the screw and wait till the glue dries before putting any load on the screw.

If the hole is excessive after filling with glue insert wooden plug such as a match, wait till it dries, trim flush and fit screw.

Also works well if you have to readjust the location of a screw slightly.

Absolutely right  [big grin] I am never without a box of matches in my tool box for this very reason. I put PVA glue on a match stick and hammer it in gently into the hole. Then I break off excess and try and wiggle that into the hole has well. Normally takes a few taps with the hammer. This way the hole is filled tightly and old screw goes in nice and tight.

Tigger
 
I do the same[member=8203]tigger[/member]. Neat trick when reinstalling old doors withe the origional slotted screws
 
Matchsticks are your friend; use a 'Stanley' knife to sharpen the ends of the matchsticks if required - can get into the tinyist of gaps to really pack the hole out.

Do remember once upon a time, on something or another, using Plastic Padding glooped into a hole - then shoving the fixing into the space.  Having positioned it, left it for 24 hours to go off.  Good as gold subsequently as I recall.

Nothing to do with woodwork - but have also used Isopon P40 (fibreglass filler) for repairs; incredible stuff. 

Richard (UK)

 
Without seeing the situation firsthand, I don't know if my solution will work.

When I misdrill a hole or have a stripped screw, I do the following.

I drill a hole centered on the old screw hole. I drill the new hole the diameter of whatever dowel size that seems to fit the situation. I glue the dowel in after cutting off a piece just long enough to anchor a new screw and still sit flush with the surface.

I now have a "virgin" area in which to drill a hole for the new screw.
 
Bohdan said:
Fill the holes with wood glue (PVA), gently tighten the screw and wait till the glue dries before putting any load on the screw.

If the hole is excessive after filling with glue insert wooden plug such as a match, wait till it dries, trim flush and fit screw.

Also works well if you have to readjust the location of a screw slightly.

I keep a box of wooden toothpicks for just that purpose. 
 
Golf tees make good "fillers" also.

I don't trust particale board to hold screws due to thread purchase. That is why I use the dowels.

Tom
 
Sparktrician said:
Bohdan said:
Fill the holes with wood glue (PVA), gently tighten the screw and wait till the glue dries before putting any load on the screw.

If the hole is excessive after filling with glue insert wooden plug such as a match, wait till it dries, trim flush and fit screw.

Also works well if you have to readjust the location of a screw slightly.

I keep a box of wooden toothpicks for just that purpose.

I also use tooth picks.  Their pointed shape allows you to get them down into the narrow point of the screw hole you are trying to fill so you end up with more wood in the hole than glue for better holding of the new screw
 
If I'm doing the repair, it would be wood dowels as [member=15289]Birdhunter[/member] says or the plastic dowel that [member=4105]tjbnwi[/member] suggests.
 
I'm split depending upon the original screw size / state of the damage:

If the original screw is a small pilot and fit type then redrill as 8mm system hole and use the plastic dowel + system screw
It gives a very pro finish, you can even make the other side match for example.

If it's already a larger system type screw hole then glue and toothpick(s) let it harden then chisel off and treat as new.

If it's really bad then drill out and plug with a dowel and rebuild around it with epoxy filler.

Order of longevity / success is as above IMHO.
 
First of all let me say that your children aren't the first to swing on cabinet doors ;-)  If you have blade hinges with small screws and you want to save the hinges you can use the golf tee trick or I've had good luck with 5 minute epoxy filling the hole.

Jack
 
CA glue  (super glue ) can be a good friend in a pinch, plus a little sawdust. Sounds like a good time to make some real doors for your nipper to swing on. 
 
What I did was drill out the holes to 6mm, glued some hardwood dowel in with some foaming gorilla glue & screwed into the dowel with standard pan head wood screws. 

Good as gold!

thanks lads.
 
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