Strong Removable Double Stick Tape Recommendations for Spice Racks

[GoingMyWay]

In August 2020, I got sick of storing the spice jars on a lazy susan that seemed to just keep spinning round and round when I was looking for a spice.  I could never find the jar that I was actually looking for.

I had the "great" idea of storing the jars on the door so it would be easier and faster to find what I was looking for, but with the caveat that I didn't want to permanently affix anything to the cabinet doors (like screwing into the door itself).  I used some 1/4" plywood that I had as a backer that I screwed the racks into.

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I initially started out using 3M Command Double Sided Strips, but that didn't seem quite thick enough.  I switched to the white "Velcro" style 3M Command strips.  This seemed to work a little bit better,  but still several of the racks have fallen down.  Some of the racks managed to hold on for nearly 1 year, but others have fallen down multiple times.

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This past weekend I tried using carpet tape on 2 racks.  It felt pretty strong at first, but the racks fell off less than 1 hour after I stuck it to the door without even holding any spice jars.  Carpet tape was obviously only meant to keep carpeting from sliding around on the floor and not support an axial load like this (I think this would be considered an axial load).

The 3M Dual Lock "Velcro" that's used to hold up E-ZPass transponders seems very strong, but I'm not sure how easily / damage free it can be removed later.

Does anyone have any recommendations for some strong double stick tape that's also removable (or at least won't damage the cabinet door's finish) that might be suitable for this application or maybe have a better way to implement my idea? 

 

[Cheese]

Look at the 3M VHB line of products. The VHB means Very High Bond, it's used for adhering automotive trim on cars...all temperatures...all kind of weather conditions...and for years & years.

 

[GoingMyWay]

Thanks Cheese.  How's the VHB removal?

 

[Cheese]

Thanks Cheese.  How's the VHB removal?

Miserable...it was developed to stick not fall off. [smile]

 

[GoingMyWay]

That's what I was afraid of. I suppose it's usually mutually exclusive - strong bond or easy to remove. Hard to be both.

 

[Peter_C]

~but with the caveat that I didn't want to permanently affix anything to the cabinet doors (like screwing into the door itself).  I used some 1/4" plywood that I had as a backer that I screwed the racks into.~

As Cheese stated VHB tape will stick, but also with the caveat it can fail dropping everything to the floor. The drop could break things, dent hardwood floors or crack/chip tiles. Constant pull can break most anything over time, and it is plausible the tape can damage the finish or discolor it.

If it were me, I wouldn't hesitate to use at least one screw on each side of the rack, but two is better. Since you know where you want them by now, there should be no reason not to make them semi-permanent?? 

Edit: Actually on second thought I would knock together some wooden spice racks together using some scrap wood. (I often use redwood scrap as I have a lot laying around.)

 

[guybo]

Thanks Cheese.  How's the VHB removal?

Miserable...it was developed to stick not fall off. [smile]

these work well,guy[attachimg=1]

 

[Cheese]

If it were me, I wouldn't hesitate to use at least one screw on each side of the rack, but two is better. Since you know where you want them by now, there should be no reason not to make them semi-permanent??

I'd also just install 2 small screws, that'd be the best of both worlds because it seems like you want both.  [smile]

When the time comes, you can remove the spice racks, use some color matched putty stick in the holes and you're good to go.

 

[AlexThePalex]

If it were me, I wouldn't hesitate to use at least one screw on each side of the rack, but two is better. Since you know where you want them by now, there should be no reason not to make them semi-permanent??

I'd also just install 2 small screws, that'd be the best of both worlds because it seems like you want both.  [smile]

When the time comes, you can remove the spice racks, use some color matched putty stick in the holes and you're good to go.

Yep, my solution also.

 

[afish]

I too would just put a few small screws in but if you are dead set against that then you could try and cut a a piece to fit of .25 inch to fit inside the recess on the back and attach the racks to that (you might be better off with a tray that has a smooth flat solid back that could be fastened easier)  Its hard to tell from the photos but im assuming there is a small gap between the panel and rails and stiles that you can slip some thin sheet metal in. Started to try to explain but as they say a picture is worth a thousand words

 

[Michael Kellough]

You don’t need stronger adhesive, you just need to give it a reasonable chance in terms of leverage.

In your first attempt the leverage advantage goes to the shelf. It’s like trying to hold a machinist square by the end of the blade. The reverse is the right way.

Two suggestions;

Use long strips of wood (nearly full length of the stiles) and maybe three adhesive mounts.

The other idea is to make a wood panel that neatly fits into the panel recess and sits on top of the lower rail. Then you only need a couple of adhesive pads at the top of the insert panel.

 

[tsmi243]

Another vote for screws.

Make the hole pattern symmetrical, so if you ever do take them off, plugs won't look silly.

 

[ChuckM]

No matter what tape you use, your racks will fall off over time.

Screws are the long-term solution, but if you really want a screw-less approach, make/fabricate a hanger, and screw the racks to the hanger. See image for the idea.

I'd use 1/8" instead of 1/4" sheet for the backer boards.

Or, make the whole hanger out of a metal sheet bent to shape, with the racks screwed to the sheet (add tape to the screw heads to protect them from scratching the door).

 

[Packard]

Instead of using three small strips of plywood, use one large sheet.  Attach in the same manner with extra strips at the top of the door. 

The geometry will be so that it will be harder to tear from the door.  Try to have at least 4 to 6 inches of plywood above the highest rack.

 

[GoingMyWay]

Thank you for all the responses!

As Cheese stated VHB tape will stick, but also with the caveat it can fail dropping everything to the floor. The drop could break things, dent hardwood floors or crack/chip tiles. Constant pull can break most anything over time, and it is plausible the tape can damage the finish or discolor it.

If it were me, I wouldn't hesitate to use at least one screw on each side of the rack, but two is better. Since you know where you want them by now, there should be no reason not to make them semi-permanent?? 

Edit: Actually on second thought I would knock together some wooden spice racks together using some scrap wood. (I often use redwood scrap as I have a lot laying around.)

Well my existing setup has fallen down more times than I would have liked so I'm used to having things drop to the floor unexpectedly.  We have hardwood floors in the kitchen so most of the bottles have survived the drops.

I do know exactly where each rack should be.  I even have the locations outlined with tape so I can easily remount the rack in the correct location after it's fallen down.  I guess using screws are a no brainer, but I just hate to put holes in anything.  I don't really hang anything on the walls either.  I suppose I could use some "tiny" screws, which wouldn't leave too big of a hole.

these work well,guy[attachimg=1]

I never knew such a device existed.

I'd also just install 2 small screws, that'd be the best of both worlds because it seems like you want both.  [smile]

When the time comes, you can remove the spice racks, use some color matched putty stick in the holes and you're good to go.

Thanks for the suggestion of the color matched putty.  That's a good idea.

Yep, my solution also.

Screws are the way to go.

I too would just put a few small screws in but if you are dead set against that then you could try and cut a a piece to fit of .25 inch to fit inside the recess on the back and attach the racks to that (you might be better off with a tray that has a smooth flat solid back that could be fastened easier)  Its hard to tell from the photos but im assuming there is a small gap between the panel and rails and stiles that you can slip some thin sheet metal in. Started to try to explain but as they say a picture is worth a thousand words

Thanks very much for taking the time to make that sketch.  I hadn't thought about trying to slip some thin sheet metal in that space.  The gap appears pretty small - I'm measuring between .006" and .010" with my feeler gauges.  Is sheet metal available in .006" thickness?

You don’t need stronger adhesive, you just need to give it a reasonable chance in terms of leverage.

In your first attempt the leverage advantage goes to the shelf. It’s like trying to hold a machinist square by the end of the blade. The reverse is the right way.

Two suggestions;

Use long strips of wood (nearly full length of the stiles) and maybe three adhesive mounts.

The other idea is to make a wood panel that neatly fits into the panel recess and sits on top of the lower rail. Then you only need a couple of adhesive pads at the top of the insert panel.

Thank you for those 2 suggestions.  Slightly wider strips and a piece that fits into the recess would definitely help.

Another vote for screws.

Make the hole pattern symmetrical, so if you ever do take them off, plugs won't look silly.

Everyone is in favor of screws.  I really must try to get over my fear of putting holes in things.  Just screwing to the door would be the most direct and secure way.  I just love to make things overly hard and complicated  [unsure].  Good thinking on the symmetrical pattern.

No matter what tape you use, your racks will fall off over time.

Screws are the long-term solution, but if you really want a screw-less approach, make/fabricate a hanger, and screw the racks to the hanger. See image for the idea.

I'd use 1/8" instead of 1/4" sheet for the backer boards.

Or, make the whole hanger out of a metal sheet bent to shape, with the racks screwed to the sheet (add tape to the screw heads to protect them from scratching the door).

Thank you for taking the time to make that sketch.  This is exactly what I was looking to buy when I first thought about putting the spice racks on the door!  Unfortunately I couldn't find a commercially available product that hung on a cabinet door and offered vertical adjustment of the rack locations.  I found one that hung over a walk-in pantry door (regular door thickness) and used something similar to a shelf standard like you'd normally screw to the wall.

I wasn't sure where I could get the metal and/or how to fabricate the bend to actually make the hanger myself.

Instead of using three small strips of plywood, use one large sheet.  Attach in the same manner with extra strips at the top of the door. 

The geometry will be so that it will be harder to tear from the door.  Try to have at least 4 to 6 inches of plywood above the highest rack.

A monolithic sheet of plywood!  Why didn't I think of that??  I guess I initially started this idea out piece meal - just 1 rack at a time in case it didn't work out as expected.  Now they've been up for over 1 year and I definitely like it.  A big sheet of plywood would have much greater surface area so there could be a lot more double stick tape.  That would definitely be stronger than what I have now or if it still wasn't quite strong enough I could probably get away with just using 2 screws to secure the whole panel to the door.

 

[guybo]

hi, i like your tape idea.and your not alone. guy[attachimg=1]

 

[afish]

you can get 30 gauge from HD a lot of duct work uses 30 gauge like this 30 guage is .0125 which might go in with a little force.  You could try single edge razor blades too and find a screw to fit in the hole of the blade which might be better than sheet metal anyways since the blade is harder and you should be able to tap it in pretty easy.

If you cut the panel to inset the weight will be carried by the bottom rail so the screws can be very small

 

[GoingMyWay]

Thanks again for everyone's responses.  I went with the big piece of plywood approach.

I used my TSC55 to cut the 1/4" plywood.  I cannot say how nice it is to be able to cut "cord/hose free."  It's also pretty much dust free.  I'm really loving the TSC55!

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I realized that I could utilize the existing door handle pull holes so I got some longer truss head screws that allowed me to mechanically attach the plywood backer to the door and not solely rely on a double stick adhesive or Velcro. 

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I lined the top and sides of the plywood with carpet tape.

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It feels pretty solid now.  I'm hoping this is a long term solution and won't have falling racks anytime in the near future.

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[guybo]

Nice solution w/ no extra holes [big grin]

 

[Packard]

Other than your calling it a "monolith", this seems to have worked out well.  "Monolith?" I wondered, "I guess he is going to make it out of granite." [big grin]  [eek] [big grin]

(Easter Island Monoliths).

Your wife might ask you to match the finish.  Shellac would look good and dry fast, but the odor will linger for a long time in a closed cabinet.  I would use stain + clear acrylic.  Any clear acrylic will hold up well in that lightly used situation. (And it will dry fast too.)