Suggested tools for building cabinets

Frederick

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Apr 7, 2010
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I am interested in building my own cabinets. My woodworking experience is low but I am getting better with every project.  Here is what I currently have for tools.

MFT/3, CT 36, TS 55, OF 1400, C 12, Centrotec Installer Set, RO 125 FEQ, PS 300

I am guessing LR 32, Domino 500, Parallel Guide Set are next?

I plan on making frameless cabinets.  Thanks for the input.
 
Frederick said:
I am guessing LR 32, Domino 500, Parallel Guide Set are next?

Yup those would be good. Get the Domino Systainer Assortment and a load of clamps.
Tim
 
Frederick said:
I am interested in building my own cabinets. My woodworking experience is low but I am getting better with every project.  Here is what I currently have for tools.

MFT/3, CT 36, TS 55, OF 1400, C 12, Centrotec Installer Set, RO 125 FEQ, PS 300

I am guessing LR 32, Domino 500, Parallel Guide Set are next?

I plan on making frameless cabinets.  Thanks for the input.

There are millions of approaches to making cabinets. Since the end of WWII masses of books have been written about European-style frameless cabinets, many inspired by System 32. The Festool LR32 products are especially efficient and accurate locating the holes on 32mm centers basic to System 32.

I own all the Festool routers, it is hardly a secret that my preference is the OF1010 to drill holes with LR32 equipment, but please remember, I build custom cabinets on a large scale. When holes only need to be drilled for a few minutes at a stretch and you have time to move an OF1400 to other uses, then that is a fine approach. What it comes down to is volume of cabinet making and your available time.

You did not mention your collection of guide rails for your TS55. When breaking down sheet material for cabinets, it is most efficient to have a rail at least 2700mm (106") long. For years I used a coupled pair of 1400mm (55") rails, in addition to a third 1400mm rail for cross cuts. When using a parallel guide set to make the long cuts breaking down sheet goods, the 3000mm (118") rail is even more efficient.

Once the sheet material is ripped into strips, the MFT/3 is very effective making accurate cross cuts. Therefore often the MFT set consists of the full-blown version as well as two of just the table. Those can well support a full sheet to be ripped, and then they can serve as the in and out-feed for the cross cutting. Later those will be used for assembly and sanding.

Absolutely you will need a surprising number of cabinet maker clamps. The Domino is a very good way of adding strength to cabinet joints while also helping to keep the parts aligned. One advantage to frameless cabinets is you will not need to build and attach face frames. This saves you a lot of time and also some equipment. Since you already own an OF1400 router, instead of using Domino case joints, you could use more traditional rabbet and dado joints. At least you will need to use rabbet joints on the cabinet backs.

With frameless cabinets you save the effort building the face frames, but you will need to perform a lot of edge banding. You can use an ordinary inexpensive iron and a piece of wood to attach thermal bond wood edging. On a small scale basis, that can well be more effective than using moderate-priced edge banding systems. Large-scale cabinet shops often have fairly expensive auto edge banding machines. There is a significant learning curve to setting up such machines, as well as daily maintenance.

The LR32 systems uses Festool guide rails drilled every 32mm. These so-called "Holy Rails" are currently available in 1400mm (55") and 2424mm (95") lengths.
 
You got a good start I think your on the right track with the tools you want add to your collection.

Only other tool I would add if your building euro style frameless cabinets is the OF 1010/ mfk 700 router with the accessories for cutting edge banding.

Mr. Brice site here has a good review

http://greenanddarkblue.blogspot.com/2012/06/festools-edge-routing-accessories.html

edited to add, after reviewing Brices review I guess you can use the 1400 for trimming edge banding, but it will be a lot easier with the 1010 or 700
 
I think you have the basics covered.  The Parallel Guides and a long rail would be my next purchases and the LR32 system is great for not only the holes, but for accurately drilling the hinge holes in the door and cabinet side.  The Domino is useful for a lot of things, in addition to aligning cabinet parts and will really aid in speeding assembly.  The 1400 can be used for edge trimming, but I agree with others that the 1010 might be a better choice or the MFK.  If you use solid wood edging the MFK is limited to 1/2 inch - 5/8 inch thick material whereas the 1010 can work with wider stock.  If just using thin material, then the MFK is perfect.  If you plan on doing laminate work, then the MFK also has the offset base that put a slight bevel on the edge, minimizing (virtually eliminating) the chance of dinging the top face of your material.  There is also a 0 degree base for when you want a perfectly flat cut on the edge 90 degrees to the face (which is what you will get with the 1010/14000 and edging plate).

Scot
 
Throw a Kreg Jig in there (If you end up building regular frame cabs) and yes LOTS of clamps and Tite Bond Ultimate wood glue. Lay everything out first and use scrap to set up the tools and practice.

2 routers help. I route the inside of the door frames with a Bosch Colt and use a Bosch 1610 (or whatever that model is) to mortise the back for panels.
 
You'll want some high quality (you don't have to go stupidly expensive) measuring and marking gear. I'd also look into the blade choices you have for the TS55 to suit your target material.

I've only recently come to realise the value of a good quality low angle block plane ... now I wouldn't be without one (or two, or three).

You may want to look into other sanding options ... a DTS400 could pair up nicely with a RO125.

Depending on where they're getting installed you may need to make some adjustments - the EHL65 is a handy little planer for such things.

Will there be edge banding in this equation? Plenty of discussion on this scattered round the forum.
 
I think Sketchup (yes it's a tool) or a CAD application of your choice would also help. While it won't replace a pencil and paper for idea generation it will save time and money in saved material costs. While there is a learning curve, it's free and there are tons of videos on youtube on how to use it.
Tim
 
having just done this ---

assuming you're getting pre-milled stock and don't want a jointer/planer/TS/etc...

CT - sized for your needs and shop size/mobility requirements.  Boom arm is a real nice to have
Some sort of cross cut saw - there are some real options other then the kapex for $500 less
TS 55 - you will need a longer rail for ripping 4x8 sheets
some non-FT router in a table if you make your own door panel profiles
C 12 or CSX (you need the kit for the offset chuck). Installer Set is a nice to have, but you do need a couple of bits.  In a pinch, you can just use the extension.
ETS 125 or 150, DTS or RTS400 -- you don't want RO/FEQ anywhere near sheet goods.  Mirka also has a nice sander.
PS 300 good for stock breakdown and at install time.  There is a very nice Bosch for comparison.
LR 32 depending on your hinge needs
Domino is a nice to have for frame/box construction, but there are far cheaper alternatives
clamps, clamps and more clamps.  There are specific cabinet installer's clamps that are almost required...
A decent of set Starrett levels (installer's kit) -- not cheap, but worth it...
A decent combo square and caliper to assist in setting-up router table for panel operations.

Finishing is an issue... Unless you have lots of experience, would find a local cabinet finisher in your area...
 
I agree with the choice of blades to the ts55.

That is dependant on the mat'l you choose, melamine you'll need a new blade, ply you won't.

clamping elements really speed up assy.

this clamp really speeds things up to: http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/489790/FS-Rapid-Clamp

Bessie toggle clamps for jigs to speed up the process

Also non festool tools you'll need is a good 18 ga. / 23 ga nailers.

good screw gun/ impact gun too.

laser for leveling the cabs makes it a breeze.
 
I started with less than you have and bought everything I needed do do my kitchen.  Here's what I bought to do what you are doing.

Before the kitchen

High quality hand tools left to me by my dad who was a carpenter and cabinet maker
Various hand held corded power tools, some pro grade and some consumer grade
Clunky old underpowered Craftsman jobsite tabesaw.
A 3 gallon compressor, 16ga and 18ga nail guns and a framing nail gun.

Bought specifically for the kitchen at the beginning and during the project.

Makita 10v drill driver/impact driver kit
TS55 and an extra rail
OF1400
CT33
ETS 150/3
The little $100 HVLP sprayer kit that you can get from Rockler or Harbor Freight and other places.
MFT 1080 and 2 screw clamps - 2 quick clamps
Rigid 10" miter saw.  not a slider, just a simple little chop saw
a nice Freud crosscut blade for the chop saw
a nice Freud thin kerf ripping blade for the old sears table saw
Rockler router table top and fence, Jessem router lift, PC router motor.  
Rigid 6" jointer
Ryobi 12" planer
the $100 Kreg jig kit
Leigh Super 18 dovetail jig
Domino 500
Sears 14" band saw
Hitachi full size drill press  (this was a Christmas gift from my daughter and son-in-law)
a bunch of bar clamps from Harbor Freight  12" 14" 36"
4 24" Bessy K body's
2 48" Irwin K body's
10 sets of pipe clamps  I have 2 - 8' pipes, 4 - 6' pipes and 6 - 4' pipes.
Harbor Freight laser self leveling laser lever.
Router bits, set of forstner bits

I made my own line boring jig at the time.  Subsequently I bought an LR32.  Love it.   I would recommend getting the LR32 right off the bat and be done with it.  Wouldn't hurt to go ahead and get a 1010 for that little job.  

You don't have to have a table saw.  You can do all your ripping with with your ts55 employing the many methods that have been described here on the FOG.  The first thing I built was a large pantry unit with 3 tall doors and 3 regular doors and 18 drawers.  I did all the ripping and crosscutting for the face frame, the doors and the drawers with my ts55.  But I got tired of it and just went back to the table saw for the rest of the kitchen.

The little sprayer does a pretty good job.  And on rare occasion, when I get lucky, I get results as good as a high dollar multi stage turbine unit.

My wife doesn't like frameless cabinets and she doesn't like full overlay doors.  Interestingly she doesn't like full inset doors either.  So I did face frames with half overlay doors.  I dressed it up a bit by putting a face frame on top of the face frame and rail and style end panels.  

I went ahead and bought 5/4 lumber for the flat panel doors and drawer fronts and ended with 7/8" thick doors.  I didn't do cope and stick doors.  I used 8mm dominos and on the stiles I ended the panel grove in the mortise.  Then after final trimming I put a profile on the outside edge of the doors.  The extra thickness, the edge treatment and a straight line instead of the cope and stick profile makes the half overlay look pretty good I think.

I used the free eCabinets software from Thermwood.  You design your cases in a fairly nice 3d design environment then place them in kitchen layout then calculate your materials.  It will tell you how many sheets of ply you'll need, board feet of lumber, etc.  You can even put in hardware items.  It will create a nesting diagram for each sheet of plywood.  You can even print out Avery labels to put on the parts as you cut them out.

We gutted and totally redid the kitchen.  And here's something you need to take note of.  People are more taken by the Mannington Adura floor, the unique texture I did on the walls using a hair pick and the back splashes.  The back splashes are  ashlar stone looking exterior porcelain tiles we adapted for interior use on two walls and on a third wall are 2 x 8 wooden tiles I cut out of some wenge I had laying around.  Nobody even notices the awesome variably spaced through dovetails I sweated blood over.  And the stars of the show are the black concrete countertops I did.  The cabinets would have to be fine furniture to even get noticed.  

 
ScotF said:
I think you have the basics covered.  The Parallel Guides and a long rail would be my next purchases and the LR32 system is great for not only the holes, but for accurately drilling the hinge holes in the door and cabinet side.  The Domino is useful for a lot of things, in addition to aligning cabinet parts and will really aid in speeding assembly.  The 1400 can be used for edge trimming, but I agree with others that the 1010 might be a better choice or the MFK.  If you use solid wood edging the MFK is limited to 1/2 inch - 5/8 inch thick material whereas the 1010 can work with wider stock.  If just using thin material, then the MFK is perfect.  If you plan on doing laminate work, then the MFK also has the offset base that put a slight bevel on the edge, minimizing (virtually eliminating) the chance of dinging the top face of your material.  There is also a 0 degree base for when you want a perfectly flat cut on the edge 90 degrees to the face (which is what you will get with the 1010/14000 and edging plate).

Scot

Yes, the parallel guides and LR32 system are  nice investment since you plan on doing cabinets.  Plus, you can combined to make the LR32 setup much easier or faster.

Festool parallel guide and LR32 guide rail used as a jig for 32mm panels   
 
What are pro's and con's regarding the two 'holy rail' lengths?

I'm thinking on acquiring another rail to complement my 1080 an 1400 rails and I would like to future proof my purchase with a 'holy rail' instead of a normal one.

I'm looking at the 2424 LR32 rail as a longer option to my current rails to have that little extra lenght without fiddling with the rail extension, but it still is shorter than a full sheet of ply.

Is it unweildy to use on normal cabinets for it's length? Which rail would you suggest having of the LR32 ones?
 
Reiska said:
What are pro's and con's regarding the two 'holy rail' lengths?

I'm thinking on acquiring another rail to complement my 1080 an 1400 rails and I would like to future proof my purchase with a 'holy rail' instead of a normal one.

I'm looking at the 2424 LR32 rail as a longer option to my current rails to have that little extra lenght without fiddling with the rail extension, but it still is shorter than a full sheet of ply.

Is it unweildy to use on normal cabinets for it's length? Which rail would you suggest having of the LR32 ones?

My experience is that the longer "Holy Rail" at 2424mm is frustrating to use except when drilling shelf pin holes in tall pantry cabinets. I always recommend using the 1400mm Holy Rail for the majority of LR32 work. Festool now included the spacer-connector so coupling Holy Rails is easy. My suggestion is to use those, in conjunction with a pair of conventional coupling bars, with a second 1400mm Holy Rail, until you are frequently making pantry-height cabinets.
 
ccarrolladams said:
My experience is that the longer "Holy Rail" at 2424mm is frustrating to use except when drilling shelf pin holes in tall pantry cabinets. I always recommend using the 1400mm Holy Rail for the majority of LR32 work. Festool now included the spacer-connector so coupling Holy Rails is easy. My suggestion is to use those, in conjunction with a pair of conventional coupling bars, with a second 1400mm Holy Rail, until you are frequently making pantry-height cabinets.

Agreed. Unless you need a longer rail 'cause you don't have one for cutting sheet goods etc. buy the short 1400mm rail. I use that one 90% of the time.
Tim
 
You know, the first thing i would do is go to amazon and get a book on cabinet construction.  i have one by taunton that is pretty good.  look at the suggested workflow and note the tools needed to execute safely/effectively.  these books also have a suggested and 'required' tool list.
 
ccarrolladams said:
Reiska said:
What are pro's and con's regarding the two 'holy rail' lengths?

I'm thinking on acquiring another rail to complement my 1080 an 1400 rails and I would like to future proof my purchase with a 'holy rail' instead of a normal one.

I'm looking at the 2424 LR32 rail as a longer option to my current rails to have that little extra lenght without fiddling with the rail extension, but it still is shorter than a full sheet of ply.

Is it unweildy to use on normal cabinets for it's length? Which rail would you suggest having of the LR32 ones?

My experience is that the longer "Holy Rail" at 2424mm is frustrating to use except when drilling shelf pin holes in tall pantry cabinets. I always recommend using the 1400mm Holy Rail for the majority of LR32 work. Festool now included the spacer-connector so coupling Holy Rails is easy. My suggestion is to use those, in conjunction with a pair of conventional coupling bars, with a second 1400mm Holy Rail, until you are frequently making pantry-height cabinets.

Thats what I did, it works great and with 2 1400 rails connect you get a combined rail length 110". Its also less expensive the 2 rails cost $116 each.

What I found though is that there is some flex where the 2 rails  are connected. So I had to keep moving the guide stops to ensure I had the 37mm set back in the center then ends.

To speed it up I bought 2 more edge stops (  485758 Edge Guide, SA-LR32)  so I could set the rails all at once.
 
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