suggestions for fast drying stain..... HELP!!!

[FulThrotl]

ok, i have a one day window, to refinish a single rooms worth
of wood floor..... red oak parquet.

all of my floor work in the past, i've used Bona products, but that
won't work in this situation, as the floor has to be available for
traffic the following day, so the drill here is gonna be:

2 rotax 150's
2 demented operators
assorted beverages with caffiene, no alcohol.
kneepads.

40 grit
60 grit
100 grit
180 grit

stain

two coats of paste floor wax, buffed out with a hard felt pad.

brings me to the question.... i need a fast drying stain.... i've
used bona oil based stain on floors, but it will not be available
in time for this, which starts at 6:30 am tuesday morning. [unsure]

what's the fastest drying natural stain you guys have experience with?

i've yet to find a floor finish that can be walked on in a public
area the following day except for wax, so that limits options.

thanks...

randy

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Randy,

Oil based finishes dry differently than water based.  In my opinion, oil based is still better, but can't dry as fast as a water based finish (including stains).  I think in such a time crunch, you'll need to go totally water based and maybe at a later date redo it.

Just so you are aware, I found Minwax does not recommend their water based stains for large surfaces such as wood floors.
http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/wood-stains/water-based-wood-stain.html

 

[GaryLaroff]

As a disclaimer, I don't stain floors, but you asked about stains.

The fastest drying stains are the alcohol-based, also sold as NGR (Non Grain Raising) stains.  I have found them to be the most difficult to use as they dry very quickly and you have to be quick to not get overlap marks.  To remove the stain, blend out overlap and/or reduce the intensity of the stain you can wipe it down with an alcohol-dampened rag.  Don't use Wood Alcohol (= Methanol, = Methyl Alcohol, = Methyl Hydrate) as it is poisonous.  Alcohol fumes tend to hover around the floor, so if you don't have enough ventilation and feel a bit woozy, stand up and or leave the room.

The relatively quick drying stains are water based and are a pleasure to use, but maybe not on a floor-sized area.  As above, the stain can be smoothed out or lightened with a rag dampened with more stain or just water.  You would need to use a stain that is recommended for floors.

Oil-based stains, including the once that are polyurethane-based dry the slowest.

For a one-day project, you are probably looking at alcohol-based or water-based stains.

Good luck and please let us know what you decide and how it worked out.

 

[shoe maker]

duraseal or bona quick dry stains are the best for this. i would not recommend a wb stain for a big area unless you are very experienced.

if you didn't have to stain you could go with pallmann magic oil 2k. i use pallmann magic oil natural a lot, 12 hours and you are ready for traffic. i think they offer it in colored versions too so you don't have to stain before hand. call them up they sell directly.

http://good-for-wood.com/Product-Search.1560.0.html?&no_cache=1&tx_ddproductmatrix_pi1[uidDetail]=3032&tx_ddproductmatrix_pi1[cmd]=detail&cHash=4d2bb7055d5f3b21bb96d817df11b824

 

[FulThrotl]

duraseal or bona quick dry stains are the best for this. i would not recommend a wb stain for a big area unless you are very experienced.

yeah, the bona is excellent.... what's interesting is the bona system, which is waterborne, and a catalyzed product, uses an oil based
stain, as they have not been able to make a water based stain that works well enough for them.....

off reading links...... thank you for taking the time to post....

"Oil-wax combination that leaves an open, breathing and diffusive surface finish.
Due to the wax content, a uniform matt, velvety surface is produced. With Magic
Oil 2K, thanks to the hardener component, very rapid drying is achieved.
This rapid drying, even in extremely heavy wear areas (catering industry, hotels,
business premises, offices…) allows renovation work to be completed in the shortest
possible time, with no reduction in resistance to mechanical wear or chemicals once
allowed to dry overnight. The improved density of the cross-linking action result in a
stronger water and dirt repellant surface that cannot be achieved with 1-component
parquet oils. Dirt removal compares with that on lacquered parquet/wood floors.
The high care expenditure of well known parquet oils does not apply to Magic Oil 2K."

hm. i need to find someplace in the LA area i can buy this tomorrow..... this looks like
what i'm looking for.....

 

[FulThrotl]

duraseal or bona quick dry stains are the best for this. i would not recommend a wb stain for a big area unless you are very experienced.

if you didn't have to stain you could go with pallmann magic oil 2k. i use pallmann magic oil natural a lot, 12 hours and you are ready for traffic. i think they offer it in colored versions too so you don't have to stain before hand. call them up they sell directly.

http://good-for-wood.com/Product-Search.1560.0.html?&no_cache=1&tx_ddproductmatrix_pi1[uidDetail]=3032&tx_ddproductmatrix_pi1[cmd]=detail&cHash=4d2bb7055d5f3b21bb96d817df11b824

300 sq. ft. of oak parquet floor in sad shape got better yesterday....

sanded out to 120 grit with ro 150, edges with ro 90... started with 40 grit,
'cause nobody had 24 grit paper :-(

used the suggested product. ordered it monday, it was here as promised tues morning,
five hours before it was needed... perfect.

mixed up a quart, followed directions, buffed second coat completely dry.

looks excellent, we will see how well it holds up.. service environment is beyond severe.

started at 8 am, done at 5 pm, walking away.

thanks for the recommendation. this is my floor finish
from now on... wished i'd known of it before i dumped
$1500 into bona traffic for my house.

90 minutes to apply complete... no go backs... done, finished.

cool.

thanks again.

 

[shoe maker]

What\'s great about the product is you can start and stop anywhere on the floor and it will all blend together. You can go back later and do spot repairs or coat just a high traffic area. It won\'t wear as good as a plastic finish like traffic but the ability to spot repair and blend it all in makes it great. There is also a product called pall-care and it is a used to clean and maintain a nice sheen. You used it mixed with water for cleaning. And you apply it full strength to give it a little bit more protection.

Where did you order it from? Did you use the natural or a colored version of it?

 

[FulThrotl]

What\'s great about the product is you can start and stop anywhere on the floor and it will all blend together. You can go back later and do spot repairs or coat just a high traffic area. It won\'t wear as good as a plastic finish like traffic but the ability to spot repair and blend it all in makes it great. There is also a product called pall-care and it is a used to clean and maintain a nice sheen. You used it mixed with water for cleaning. And you apply it full strength to give it a little bit more protection.

Where did you order it from? Did you use the natural or a colored version of it?

natural, and i got it from ufloor, as there isn't anyone in calif that seems to carry it, and i was on short time.

yeah, it's almost impossible to screw it up, short of kicking the can over, and then you just have to spread fast..... ;-)

seemed you had to buff till it got it warmed up, and the pad got really sticky, and was about to stall, then
flip the pad over and continue... getting it nice and warm sets it off well, so it quits slinging and loses the sheen

and if ya want, like you said, you can do a room at a time, and it's seamless.... bona's the best stuff i've seen, but
i did mine 5 years ago, and it's time to spiff it a bit.... i put enough on that i can do a color sanding with a foam
pad, if i could stand the tedium......

thanks for your help

 

[Charles959]

Thanks for the detailed description of your application of Pallmann Magic Oil 2K. How has the finish held up, and are you still using it?

 

[mouppe]

Shellac. Dry in 20 minutes. And you can recoat several times in a matter of hours. Add some drops of transtint to the shellac to get a darker shade. Apply it with a brush or a pad.

Done.

 

[leakyroof]

Shellac. Dry in 20 minutes. And you can recoat several times in a matter of hours. Add some drops of transtint to the shellac to get a darker shade. Apply it with a brush or a pad.

Done.

. I've done this. It's held up well in the one room we worked with.
For removal later on however , Granat to sand it up or Alcohol wash to remove as much Shellac before sanding with Granat? [unsure]

 

[mouppe]

I'd sand it. better control that way. but why the need to remove it?

 

[leakyroof]

I'd sand it. better control that way. but why the need to remove it?

it was always a temp finish. The floors in our house need work , so doing one room with Shellac bought us some time.