Suggestions for hybrid workbench

@Jlt3b So far as jointing edges go in tight space without a planer, a known straight edge for a guide and a spiral router bit with a bearing works just fine to get a perfect edge for jointing.

I do this a great deal myself even though I have a planer as it's so simple and easy. I used a dead straight level to route the edge of an MDF strip straight, and then use the MDF as the guide.
 
1. Dashboard and little space aren't really two concepts I'd put together. The MFT is smaller (maybe a bit wider front to back, unless you include the trackstars/outriggers for the dashboard). Unsurprisingly a great deal of us use the basic MFT as a table saw replacement just fine. I think the biggest determinant would be what SIZE of stuff you'd like to build. If you were hauling 8x4 sheet goods in every day and building cabinets with the minimum number of cuts, then sure - Dashboard. But I can assure you as a newbie, that you're not going to be doing the minimum number of cuts - your offcut edge is probably going to be ugly. You're going to be recutting parts after many mistakes. It's not as streamlined as promo videos may show. Hence, just get a flat surface you can cut into and cut & learn. Looking back at your thread trying to decipher what you want to do, I see crazyraceguy has already said something similar many times too.

2. A track saw replaces a table saw when you have a flat surface the rail can sit on. The only time a track saw becomes a bit more unwieldy is when the stock is more narrow than the rail width. In those circumstances, if you have thicknessed boards that are of similar thickness, just tape them together with blue tape and shuffle them about as you joint an edge on each. Again, all you need is a flat cutting surface and your rails.

3. The main thing Dashboard provides is cutting onto the same line on the cutting surface. Some of us get very stingy with a consumable and do a lot of things to avoid making the MFT tops look like the surface of Mars. There's no functional reason, only aesthetics - and I say this as one who's avoided cutting into tops other than one rail line too. MFT also does this to some extent, with stops for repeat positioning of the rail lift. It's sloppy though, and isn't meant to be as precise as Dashboard's. But then again, you're expected to cut into the rest of the table top a lot.

3a. For small hand tool work, you really can just slap a MDF board (of any size, can be narrow, can be MFT sized) and just drill some 20mm holes into it. They don't even have to be grid. The MFT spacing is just a good standard to use to have access to clamps that can reach the entire board. I personally have a long 1.5'x4' - X2 MFT slab that I just throw onto a Dewalt Heavy Duty stand to do a lot of work in confined spaces. As long as I'm dealing with relatively narrow boards, there's no more that's needed.
 
@Jlt3b - you mentioned the 735x and the new Oliver 15" - have you seen these planers in person? The 735 is a bit larger than the typical lunchbox, like the Wen, Rikon or Dewalt 734. Then the 15" Oliver is a bit bigger and nearly twice as heavy as the 735. It's an utter beast, needs 220v power and is a bit more costly than the expected price when they announced it at the beginning of the year ($1900 vs $1600) - and it's considerably more expensive than the 735.

I have the 735x and have paired it with the Cutech 6" benchtop planer with helical heads. It's a good jointer but I do feel now that 6" is a bit limiting. If budget is a concern, a lot of these (with the Oliver 15" being the exception) can be found on places like FB Marketplace at a good discount from new. I got the Cutech and 735 for considerably less than new.

On your concern with the table saw, I don't find it (like many others) to be the centerpiece of my workshop. It's a very useful tool but not as important as others for their needs. That's another thing that will help guide you to the right equipment: your needs. If you're doing cabinets from sheetgoods, the table saw seems to be more essential. And since injury is a concern, considering a SawStop is probably ideal. I have the CTS and it meets pretty much most of my needs (until I need to cut sheet goods, then it's the TS 55). Currently, I'm building mostly chairs from rough sawn lumber. This means my parts are not very large and the CTS is more than capable for my work.
 
Thanks everyone. I greatly appreciate all of your thoughts and input!!!

@onocoffee: I haven't seen the 15"Oliver but have read that it is indeed a beast of a "lunchbox" machine. I'm probably better trying to find a used DW 735x on Facebook Marketplace. I'm always nervous about buying big ticket items like this in the used market, but it sounds like most people have pretty good experiences doing it... I don't know a lot about the CTS - i'll have to do some reading about it.

@woodferret: what do you mean by "1.5'x4' - X2"? Do you mean that you have two 1.5' x 4' boards sandwiched together (to make a thicker 1.5' x 4' board), or do you mean that you have two separate 1.5' x 4' boards each with 20mm holes? I appreciate your comments about not acheiving as few cuts as possible as a newbie, and making mistakes and learning from them. Thanks also for your comments about Dashboard/MFT tops... I just saw this video for an MFT style bench that can be built bit by bit (just the top and legs first, then other components added over time. Gotta decide if its too much for me to bite off this early in my journey:

@luvmytoolz: thanks for the suggestion about using a straight edge and a spiral router bit!
 
Thanks everyone. I greatly appreciate all of your thoughts and input!!!

@onocoffee: I haven't seen the 15"Oliver but have read that it is indeed a beast of a "lunchbox" machine. I'm probably better trying to find a used DW 735x on Facebook Marketplace. I'm always nervous about buying big ticket items like this in the used market, but it sounds like most people have pretty good experiences doing it... I don't know a lot about the CTS - i'll have to do some reading about it.
As with anything used, there's all kinds out there. Just take your time and look for the best deal.

I got my 735x off Marketplace from a guy who said he used it once and was asking $450. He included a pic of the manufacturers plate which showed it being made in 2014. I sent him a message asking if he'd be willing to consider an offer of $250 and he said yes. When I got there, I asked him about the missing key and he knocked off another $50 (I guess he feared that it might kill the deal) and I got it for $200. At this point, I could add the Shelix and still be ahead of the curve.

Took the 735x home, opened it up and cleaned it out. If you go used, just be aware that you want to look at the chains and the urethane belt. Check the chains for proper tension and the belt for any wear. This guy probably only used it for one or two projects because even after ten years, it was clean and solid. Of course, YMMV. But Good Luck!
 
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