Summer house

[Ken Nagrod]

Tim,

I've been using 2p-10 for around 5 years and I never had a problem using it with crown molding.  I usually just use their thick gel version.  There are three types.  I do get squeeze out, but I just spray it with the activator and carefully pick it off with my utility knife or the blade from it.  I always keep a can of lacquer thinner around for cleaning the excess or removing glue from my fingers or fingers from wood.  I have found that if you break the glued joint just after you've made it, spray the activator to cure it all and scrape off all the glue to the bare wood before starting over.  Otherwise the joint won't hold with new glue over the old stuff.

I do like the improvements FastCap has made with the bottle top.  I used to go through a lot of the old style tops because the red cap would glue itself to the spout and when I'd try to take the cap off, I'd take off part of the spout and then you have no way to seal the glue unless you carry spare bottle parts -- thank you Leanne!

 

[jmbfestool]

Ive started using another one, cant remember the name just now but instead of the spray the activator is in a wide tipped marker pen. Work's even better than the spray in my opinion.  JMB, is the glue remover any good or have you never tried it yet ?

Tim, i once glued a cornice to the top of a wall unit & while holding it till it set I glued my finger to it.  Had to get the apprentice pass me a new Stanley blade to slice my skin away from the cornice.  Strong stuff  [eek]

I forgot the reply to your marker pen version.    Do you really like that?  I found it's not as strong bond and the tip gets dirty and dries?    I think it's okay when you have two pieces easy to get to but if one piece is awkward place to get your marker pen in you'r kinda stuffed.  At least with a  spray you can almost always get to the piece by over spraying everywhere.

Jmb

 

[woodguy7]

Yea, i like the pen version & have not had a joint fail on me yet.  I know what you mean about awkward places but so far i have managed but carry the spray type as well.

 

[Deansocial]

Ive started using another one, cant remember the name just now but instead of the spray the activator is in a wide tipped marker pen. Work's even better than the spray in my opinion.  JMB, is the glue remover any good or have you never tried it yet ?

Tim, i once glued a cornice to the top of a wall unit & while holding it till it set I glued my finger to it.  Had to get the apprentice pass me a new Stanley blade to slice my skin away from the cornice.  Strong stuff  [eek]

I forgot the reply to your marker pen version.     Do you really like that?  I found it's not as strong bond and the tip gets dirty and dries?    I think it's okay when you have two pieces easy to get to but if one piece is awkward place to get your marker pen in you'r kinda stuffed.  At least with a  spray you can almost always get to the piece by over spraying everywhere.

Jmb

i do like the pen version. the pen is best on plastic window trims as too much spray can yellow the plastic on cheaper stuff

 

[Jonhilgen]

I use 2p10 quite often for crown molding as well.  I dont use the activator, I like having a few seconds to position the mite before it sets.  Like Ken said, if you don't use too much, ir won't squeeze out.  Use the thick version and its easier to control.

I do however nail my miters with a 23 pin gun, but switch to an 18 g to nail the crown to the cabinets.  Nothing a wax stick can't hide.

 

[jmbfestool]

I use 2p10 quite often for crown molding as well.  I dont use the activator, I like having a few seconds to position the mite before it sets.  Like Ken said, if you don't use too much, ir won't squeeze out.  Use the thick version and its easier to control.

I do however nail my miters with a 23 pin gun, but switch to an 18 g to nail the crown to the cabinets.  Nothing a wax stick can't hide.

You don't use the activator?  Well it won't work then?  I have tried da and yes it sets eventually but takes ages but also it's see weak joint  I can just look at it and the joint will fail unless your 2p10 is very different to our stuff.

Jmb

 

[tiralie]

I usually just use their thick gel version.

I have the thick gel version as well, haven't even opened it thinking it was only for using when the joint was a little open and needed to bridge the space. I will definitely use it.

I do get squeeze out, but I just spray it with the activator and carefully pick it off with my utility knife or the blade from it.

Good to know. Didn't know you could use the activator to release or loosen the glue.

I always keep a can of lacquer thinner around for cleaning the excess or removing glue from my fingers or fingers from wood. 

I usually have a can of acetone, but that destroys (sheen) finish. I will give the lacquer thinner a try.

I have found that if you break the glued joint just after you've made it, spray the activator to cure it all and scrape off all the glue to the bare wood before starting over.  Otherwise the joint won't hold with new glue over the old stuff.

Yes, I have found that out. Another reason why I don't like to use it for tricky match ups, getting down to bare wood is a pain and you risk splintering small pieces off.

I do like the improvements FastCap has made with the bottle top.  I used to go through a lot of the old style tops because the red cap would glue itself to the spout and when I'd try to take the cap off, I'd take off part of the spout and then you have no way to seal the glue unless you carry spare bottle parts -- thank you Leanne!

Definitely appreciate that bottle top too, and it's one of the reasons I keep using it over the Lee Valley stuff. I also notice that the 2p10 does not deteriorate (gas off) as fast as the Lee Valley glue when stored for any length of time. So, thanks Leanne who ever you are. I also like the case the 2p10 comes in.
The Lee Valley glue tops get glued on the the bottle after a while. You can buy replacement tops now so that helps.
Tim

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Tim,

I meant that before removing any squeeze out, I spray the activator on the squeeze out to harden it so removal is much easier.

Lacquer thinner contains acetone, so if you have issues with the acetone, you will with the lacquer thinner as well.

Leanne is the wife of Paul Akers.  They own FastCap and Leanne, Paul and Jon have all gone out of their way at times to help me out with their products.  Leanne took care of my problems with 2p-10 bottle parts and the resulting dried up glue still in one of the bottles.

 

[jmbfestool]

Tim,

I meant that before removing any squeeze out, I spray the activator on the squeeze out to harden it so removal is much easier.

Lacquer thinner contains acetone, so if you have issues with the acetone, you will with the lacquer thinner as well.

Leanne is the wife of Paul Akers.  They own FastCap and Leanne, Paul and Jon have all gone out of their way at times to help me out with their products.  Leanne took care of my problems with 2p-10 bottle parts and the resulting dried up glue still in one of the bottles.

I find that method your on about is okay IF you get squeeze out spray it with the activator but it's still better avoided as it's still difficult to remove the squeeze out even when it's gone hard in an internal corner and often can damage the surface of the Veneer trying to pick it off with a knife  I have done it a few times and ken your making it sound like it just flicks of with a knife but it doesn't it still sticks to the face and takes a careful hand picking away at it.

I get the same problem with the bottle tops so I just throw the top away and use a screw instead.

Jmb

 

[tiralie]

Leanne is the wife of Paul Akers.  They own FastCap and Leanne, Paul and Jon have all gone out of their way at times to help me out with their products.  Leanne took care of my problems with 2p-10 bottle parts and the resulting dried up glue still in one of the bottles.

I particularly like the third hand and the 2p10. Great products.

 

[Ken Nagrod]

JMB,

There was no implication that you just spray on the activator and flick it off.  I originally stated, "carefully pick it off".  No using your fingers in a flicking motion or getting out the jack hammer.  Just carefully using a knife or a sharp chisel, take off the excess.  You don't have to go nuts.  It's not surgery.  Try and cut the glue with the grain towards the joint.

 

[vwdave]

Paul from fastcap is a great guy,  he's helped me out a bunch with questions I had. Paul also sent me out the 2p10 in the caddy you see in the pics. The best part is he sent me a total of 3 of them so I will be giving 2 away soon in an upcoming video. The glue I used was the jel and I didn't have any issues with it dripping.

Dave

 

[jmbfestool]

JMB,

There was no implication that you just spray on the activator and flick it off.  I originally stated, "carefully pick it off".  No using your fingers in a flicking motion or getting out the jack hammer.  Just carefully using a knife or a sharp chisel, take off the excess.  You don't have to go nuts.  It's not surgery.  Try and cut the glue with the grain towards the joint.

Not everything has grain you know lol [tongue]. I'm talking kitching cornice with a black White gloss or a matt veneer finish you will struggle to remove the squeeze out and spray method with out causing slight damage to your surface.

Jmb

 

[Ken Nagrod]

JMB,

There was no implication that you just spray on the activator and flick it off.  I originally stated, "carefully pick it off".  No using your fingers in a flicking motion or getting out the jack hammer.  Just carefully using a knife or a sharp chisel, take off the excess.  You don't have to go nuts.  It's not surgery.  Try and cut the glue with the grain towards the joint.

Not everything has grain you know lol [tongue]. I'm talking kitching cornice with a black White gloss or a matt veneer finish you will struggle to remove the squeeze out and spray method with out causing slight damage to your surface.

Jmb

Good point.  Then just be careful that you don't apply too much glue and don't move around the joint to cause the glue to seep out the face.  What do you need me to come over there to glue stuff for you?  [tongue]

 

[Deansocial]

thing is with all these cyanoacrylate glues is that they are very weak. they have a low shear strength. I use d4 wood glue where i can