Surfix on stairs

[milanv]

I used the Surfix applicator system to apply a finish to my stairs.  I followed all the instructions but now the stairs are sticky to walk on.  Any one else have this problem?  How do I fix it?

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

It's sounds like maybe there hasn't been enough time given for the oil to fully cure. That time can vary based on ambient temperature, humidity and other factors.

 

[tjbnwi]

Yep, it's a time issue affected by the environment. Try buffing them again with the white pad, you may have left it a little heavy.

Tom

 

[semenza]

I used the Surfix applicator system to apply a finish to my stairs.  I followed all the instructions but now the stairs are sticky to walk on.  Any one else have this problem?  How do I fix it?

Hi,

I don't know much about the Surfix oil, but  .... Welcome to the FOG!  [smile]

Seth

 

[panelchat]

from the sound of it i wonder if you left too much oil on the surface?

if so, i'll offer this-
its a penetrating finish as opposed to a surface finish or film finish, just like pure linseed oil, pure (real) tung oil, and other mixed/formulated oils like Osmo, etc. so you remove like 99% of the oil remaining on the surface after each application, leaving the real bulk of the product IN the wood rather than ON the wood. even then it takes days for linseed oil finishes to cure, even though the surface is essentially wiped dry. but it doesn't matter really as most of the finish is in the wood and the surface is not really wet. (sorry if you know all this already) if a thick layer of oil was left after the application, it probably won't ever really dry correctly.

i love the surfix kit, but as often happens, i found the factory instructions to be lacking in in depth information...

 

[Schornsteinfeger]

Could anyone advise me on how to deal with a sticky Surfix finish?
We stripped and sanded down two softwood floors, then applied two and three coats of Surfix heavy-duty, respecting instructions garnered from Festool, the web etc, scrupulously throughout, during fine warm weather with lots of ventilation. Three weeks later, the floor with three coats is still very sticky and the two-coat floor is slightly sticky. The most trodden areas are not quite sticky as the others.
But when anyone walks over either floor, it sounds as if they're chewing toffee with their mouth open.
To remove the excess oil, we've tried hand rubbing using scouring-pad type abrasives, Rotex polishing with white Vlies, both with and without turpentine, all to no effect. Hand rubbing with a cotton rag is marginally more effective.
Any advice on how to solve this problem would be gratefully received, because we have a couple more floors to deal with!
This question comes from a new forum member, living near Paris.

 

[sancho57]

bonjour , [welcome], my first question is , did you allow the oil to completely dry before applying to 2nd coat?

 

[Schornsteinfeger]

Thanks for your quick response!
Yes, we allowed 8 hours at least, between coats

 

[dhoover1027]

Really never got an answer.
Maybe a year later someone will chime in. I have them same issue with a countertop. Beautiful on hickory, but sticky.
It's been two weeks in low Phoenix humidity at room temp.

Resand and start over ?
Resand with 230 or higher grit paper and put on a light coat and buff with white Viles ?
Buff with green Viles ?
Any help appreciated.
Doug

 

[bertv]

Try rubbing it with microfibrecloth on a sanding block, finish with same by hand, changing to clean patches regulary.

 

[Dongar]

I would try removing the sticky surface with a card scraper

 

[TomE]

Not sure if this will help but may be a point to consider.

Oil finishes need to penetrate for best results if for any reason it doesn't goo will lay on top.

My experience is not with Surfix but many a year back we put together a bar top of teak.

Sanded all per normal and applied tung oil finish per normal. We got goo.

We were early on in our experience (meaning not very knowledgeable) and learned that the supplied teak was apparently not fully dried. Since the wood was still fairly 'green', the sanding and heat generated let the natural oils come up in the wood acting as a sealant.

I'm not sure I recall exactly how we fixed it, may have sanded then refinished but the critical step involved was using a solvent (alcohol I believe) to mitigate the natural oils of the wood. Rub down the sanded surface with alcohol, let dry and applied the tung, better results. Apparently the solvent thinned and or removed the oils in the wood surface enough for the finish to penetrate.

Scraping the goo might also work then hit it with solvent but a test piece of same materials used should be tried first to see if it works.

One would think, however, that the goo would eventually dry off anyway but whatever causes the initial problems may have messed with the chemistry of the finishes involved.

We also had problems with prefinished lacquered stuff (not fully cured we believe) and trying to touch it up with polyurethane. Again sanding, solvent cleaning (for the poly) and using brush on lacquer to refinish worked.

We now do test pieces with intended finish to make sure.

 

[Holmz]

Thanks for your quick response!
Yes, we allowed 8 hours at least, between coats

I do not know about Surfix per se, but the oils may need a lot longer than 8 hours.

I also believe that the oils undergo a chemical process where they exotherm and bond probably with oxygen and turn from an oil into more like a wax or resin. The same reason why oily rags can catch alight (flambe le rag).

 

[dhoover1027]

Thanks for all your thoughts.
Just this morning I put my hand on it as I walked by and it is better. I'm going to let it alone until I finish the rest of the kitchen countertops.
I will make sure I remove  all the excess after each coat.
I like it -it worked well on a cherry table top.

I'll let you know how it turns out.

Doug

 

[TomE]

Can also try metal wool buffing if the problem continues.