Surfix v Liberon Finishing Oil v Osmo

[festivus]

I'm a big fan of the Liberon stuff and have used it for years. It's my go to finish when I don't spray.

I'm just about to re-order but am very tempted by the Surfix system.

My standard finishing regime with Liberon oil is 2 or 3 coats wiped on then off. Finish rubbing paste wax with 0000 grade steel wool or synthetic equivalent. And then buffed out. Give very nice finish. Feels ultra smooth.

Anyone had experience of this versus surfix - do you still finish the finish - with wax or similar. How many coats? Is it is quicker would you say?

Also hear a lot about Osmo - how does that compare to both?

Thanks!

 

[Rob-GB]

Osmo oils (different types) I have used and Liberon finishing oil but most used (by litreage ) is Rustins Danish oil. Surfix oil not been used, yet.
The Osmo oils have been supplied by the client for works on his properties and always look great (exterior windows, floors and worktops) easy to use and if my info is correct, that company used to manufacture for many others before selling for themselves.
The Danish oil was easiest to get years back and easy to use so got used for everything furniture, turnings and even my canoe paddles!
Liberon finishing oil has been supplied on a couple of jobs so I used some on my chessboard...not overly happy with it.
Cut it back three times now but it seems to attract dust and congeal around it.
Would be nice to know who makes the oils under the surfix name, for Festool to have their own dept' to do so would be prohibitively expensive.

Rob.

 

[jmbfestool]

I would stay clear from Osmo its an over rated product at a price.

It's NOT hard wearing and it's NOT long lasting.    It IS easy to apply and it DOES bring out the wood nicely BUT that isn't good enough to make up for its poor performance.

I own the surfix its okay the festool oil seems pretty good but not used it much on different types of wood to give an honest opinion.

 

[sicd_steve]

I have used all the Surfix oils and when you follow the correct procedure I find it a great product, less mess, smells OK when working with. You get a really lovely durable finish. But they pads get wasted too fast and the only gripe I have is I can find nothing that will clean say brushes,, ( I use these to get into small areas the pad can't) I have used Turpentine, White Spirits, Mentholated Spirits why hell even warm soapy water. None will work for me I would love to hear if others have a solution.

The out door surfix is great in Australia the UV is high and I have had good results on a outdoor table top I made from Messmate a local hardwood.

 

[festivus]

That's great - a useful insight.

sicd-steve - do the pads last a project (say three coats)? If so, for me, that's probably ok. I got the impression they were disposable. At £2 each quite pricey though.

And if didn't want to waste a pad would used my tried and tested kitchen roll method for applying the oil!

Thanks.

 

[Cheese]

Here's a picture of a teak table that was treated with Surfix Outdoor oil 11 months ago. The table stays out year round on a patio. I do however, use a plastic cover on the table to protect it from the snow and rain. Still, you can see that where moisture contacted the table either because of weather or condensation, the finish has started to lift.
I just consider this to be a yearly project to retain the original color of the teak.

[attachthumb=1]

 

[promhandicam]

I would stay clear from Osmo its an over rated product at a price.

It's NOT hard wearing and it's NOT long lasting.    It IS easy to apply and it DOES bring out the wood nicely BUT that isn't good enough to make up for its poor performance.

I own the surfix its okay the festool oil seems pretty good but not used it much on different types of wood to give an honest opinion.
[/quote

Not my experience of Osmo Polyx. I use it on most of the furniture I make including some oak dining tables for a local school which I refurbished with it and after 2 years they were just starting to show signs of needing another coat. These tables are washed down at least 3 times a day every day, which to my mind is pretty good going. Which Osmo oil were you using?

 

[orm8426]

Has anyone tired Treatex products?

 

[jmbfestool]

I would stay clear from Osmo its an over rated product at a price.

It's NOT hard wearing and it's NOT long lasting.    It IS easy to apply and it DOES bring out the wood nicely BUT that isn't good enough to make up for its poor performance.

I own the surfix its okay the festool oil seems pretty good but not used it much on different types of wood to give an honest opinion.
[/quote

Not my experience of Osmo Polyx. I use it on most of the furniture I make including some oak dining tables for a local school which I refurbished with it and after 2 years they were just starting to show signs of needing another coat. These tables are washed down at least 3 times a day every day, which to my mind is pretty good going. Which Osmo oil were you using?

I have used osmo for furniture, I have used osmo for flooring, I have used osmo for exterior and non have lived upto their claims.

I have used a product years ago on my mums oak floor in wish in could remember what it was it was a trade product in a large tub.  I did it years years ago 2 coats and it still holding up no signs of wearing off.  Yet I have seen and applied my self osmo on oak flooring and after only 1 year it has started to wear of around door entrances.

 

[Trans former]

you should try Osmo, I can only say good things about it. Easy to apply, forgiving and predictable. Apply with roller, brush or rag.
1 good coat for all furniture is a great finish or 2 coats for posh.

 

[sicd_steve]

Hey Festivus yes the foam pad will last three coats as long as you put it back in the tin in-between coats and keep working it over the 3 days for 3 coats as you need to allow it to dry properly so you can sand it the next day.

But after that they are dead and start to get lumpy .

But some times for small stuff I use those small painting /Staining pads you can buy from DIY stores, they are like  a small pad with a low nap of "fur"....Russian Mink I think!!!! ...lol

 

[sicd_steve]

Orm846....Yes I have experienced using Treatex extensively and it has been great product I have used it on very busy commercial hotel bars and table tops with great result, smells really nice when working with as well. I have always used the satin version. But it has a 12 month shelf life in the can. In the commercial world it is a great solution to be able to come in after hours to recoat and it will be dry the next day for usage without the horrible smell that you get from epoxy/varnishes...clients don't like their bars to scare away the customers as the bar is not dry and stinks....and 2 part epoxy takes your breath away at times.

But talking to an owner today from a well known recycled timber company in Melbourne who specialises in great aussie timbers has mentioned a few of his cabinetmaker customers have said it is not as good as it used to be. Maybe a case of rather than to raise the price of the Treatex they have decided to reduce the quality if so thats a very, very dumb move.

Hope that sheds light, and for me I have had great results from Treatex in the past.

But it has been hearsay until I get some of the newer stuff to experiment with.

 

[LB Floors]

I use Treatex on floors regularly, it's a fantastic looking product.  You can also use the (2-pack) hardener for commercial applications.  If you sand fine enough you can wipe on/wipe off and 2 coats and that is all you need.

I would also recommend 2 other "buffing oils" that I've used on floors and can be used in the same method. These are Woca- Diamond Oil (they have others but this is what I've used). And Rubio Monocoat, which also comes in a massive range of colours from metallic gold & silver through to purple & green. Just remember to follow the recommended sanding & cleaning procedures before application and will last forever. Maintenance is as simple as wiping more oil on.

 

[orm8426]

I use Treatex on floors regularly, it's a fantastic looking product.  You can also use the (2-pack) hardener for commercial applications.  If you sand fine enough you can wipe on/wipe off and 2 coats and that is all you need.

I would also recommend 2 other "buffing oils" that I've used on floors and can be used in the same method. These are Woca- Diamond Oil (they have others but this is what I've used). And Rubio Monocoat, which also comes in a massive range of colours from metallic gold & silver through to purple & green. Just remember to follow the recommended sanding & cleaning procedures before application and will last forever. Maintenance is as simple as wiping more oil on.

If you were treating a cedar exterior door with Treatex, what grit would you sand down too before you felt you were polishing/burnishing the wood at the expense of the Treatex penetrating?

Many thanks.

 

[LB Floors]

The magic of wood is that no matter how fine you sand it, it can always be water-popped.  Mix half metho half water and wet the wood with it liberally.  This opens up the pores of the timber allowing better penetration.

For a zirconia or ceramic based abrasive (grenat) I would sand down to 220# on cedar with an oscillating sanding pattern.  If you have a rotex go to 220# on rotex mode and then switch it to random orbital mode with 220 #to finish it off. Then water-pop & apply Treatex.

In normal circumstances you would apply Treatex without water-popping but for full penetration in an outdoor environment it's not a bad idea. I'd suggest brushing it on thinned 10-15% in >20c or 5-10%

 

[mwildt]

I have used all the Surfix oils and when you follow the correct procedure I find it a great product, less mess, smells OK when working with. You get a really lovely durable finish. But they pads get wasted too fast and the only gripe I have is I can find nothing that will clean say brushes,, ( I use these to get into small areas the pad can't) I have used Turpentine, White Spirits, Mentholated Spirits why heck even warm soapy water. None will work for me I would love to hear if others have a solution.

The out door surfix is great in Australia the UV is high and I have had good results on a outdoor table top I made from Messmate a local hardwood.

Just an idea for the cleaning. Not sure if you have this product locally, but Castrol Purple (Super clean) degreaser is quite powerful. Don't use on aluminum.

 

[festivus]

Thanks sicd-steve  - missed your post. Think I'll give it a try on my next finishing task.

Cheers