Swing Boom Arm

[Mario Turcot]

[member=57948]ChuckM[/member]  Fun fact, went to CT today and found the 50' for 42.99 instead of 79.99  [eek]

 

[ChuckM]

Nice deal!

 

[Mario Turcot]

Last Friday I received the new braided 36mm 7.5m hose to be used on the boom arm. As suggested by Willy I used a 12awg cord instead of 14awg to accommodate the OF 2200. I found a 3 way cord for less then an arm ty to ChuckM.

Last weekend before I put the new hose onto the boom arm, a few enhancement came to my mind. While I was waiting on the new hose to come I did use the boom arm on the Kapex and for some sanding, obviously some modification were required.

Prototype II

- First I made a new set of more robust wall brackets,
- I made the bottom bracket hole larger to fit the 12awg,
- Add a notch on the top bracket to attach the new hose preventing the hose from wiggling and catching on anything,
- Made the hole boom arm (wall brackets) to sit on French cleats, that way I can move it anywhere in the shop.
- Made the beak part longer from 6 inches to 14 inches. The end was a bit too far for my taste from the Kapex.

I still have to come up with a way to keep the wall brackets tight onto the French cleats. Perhaps you guys might have suggestions. I want a tool-less way to move it.

Also I have at the end of the boom arm a wooden plug. The power cable to through the plug to protect it. The plug is a tight fit going into the EMT pipe protruding 18mm. What would you do? leave as is or epoxy/glue wood on metal.

I will post picture before and after assembly tonight.

Mario

 

[David Fox]

Mario,
I like your boom arm upgrades. I'm thinking of a tall bracket that extends below the bottom edge of the French cleat a couple of inches. Then a sliding,slotted block that rides in a dado, which will minimize any torque twisting the block. Once the bracket is set onto the French cleat, slide the block tight against the underside of the cleat and tighten a knob to hold it in place. Now the cleat is locked securely onto the cleat.

 

[Mario Turcot]

Mario,
I like your boom arm upgrades. I'm thinking of a tall bracket that extends below the bottom edge of the French cleat a couple of inches. Then a sliding,slotted block that rides in a dado, which will minimize any torque twisting the block. Once the bracket is set onto the French cleat, slide the block tight against the underside of the cleat and tighten a knob to hold it in place. Now the cleat is locked securely onto the cleat.

[member=66343]David Fox[/member]  Thanks for the suggestion, I might go that route in a near future. I put two screws on both French cleats for now. I am focusing on a few storage cabinets. I have all my clamps set on a wall and I'm frankly tired to move the hardware boxes. I hope to be done in a few weeks with some pictures  [big grin]

 

[Sparktrician]

Mario,
I like your boom arm upgrades. I'm thinking of a tall bracket that extends below the bottom edge of the French cleat a couple of inches. Then a sliding,slotted block that rides in a dado, which will minimize any torque twisting the block. Once the bracket is set onto the French cleat, slide the block tight against the underside of the cleat and tighten a knob to hold it in place. Now the cleat is locked securely onto the cleat.

I do something similar.  There are no less than two french cleats separated by 18" supporting any cabinet or other structure/bracket.  The bracket with its movable cleat has a screw, usually a self-tapping flathead screw, placed such that it's just below the fixed cleat on the wall.  The screw is long enough to prevent the movable cleat from being accidentally lifted off the fixed cleat, but short enough to not contact the wall surface.  This leaves no marks on the wall or the fixed cleat, and all cabinets can be placed on appropriate cleats easily by backing out the screw.  Cabinets can be relocated horizontally (slid right and left) without removing the screw.  YMMV... 

 

[Mario Turcot]

[member=7493]Sparktrician[/member] Willy, can you get me a picture? I am a visual guy  [embarassed] and would like to see how you did it.

Thanks a bunch  [smile]

 

[Sparktrician]

I don't have any pictures, per se, [member=66597]Mario Turcot[/member], but I do have a drawing somewhere in the files.  I'll see if I can find it later today. 

From my notes on the computer:
If using the Imperial system, space cleats at 12", 30", 48", 66" and 84" AFF, measured to the bottom of the beveled surface on the stationary cleat.  The delta is 18".  Use a minimum of two cleats per cabinet so any cabinet is supported by no less than two cleats.  Base cabinets are supported by two+ cleats plus two Ikea Capita (http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60263574/) legs at the front for strength and to make under-cabinet cleaning easier.  Leg height is set to 115mm AFF (level floor).  Leg adjustment range is from 110mm (4-3/8") to 120mm (4-3/4") . 

Four standard cabinet heights (Imperial):
31-1/2", 2 cleats
49-1/2", 3 cleats
67-1/2", 4 cleats
85-1/2", 5 cleats

Point of bottom cleat bevel spaced 7-1/2" above cabinet bottom, then every 18". 

 

[Mortiser]

Mario, here is what I use for tool-less, movable french cleats. Note that the cleat uses a screwed-on base (not glued) so you can get it on and off the wall. You place the cleat on the wall, screw on the base and then tighten the socket head cap screw, which is mounted in a threaded insert, to hold it in the position you desire. I can tighten the cap screw enough by hand that it will bite into the bottom of the wall mount strip to hold the cleat in position. For heavier or longer cleats I sometimes use two cap screws.
Enjoying your post.
Richard

 

[Mario Turcot]

[member=39410]mccrich[/member] Richard, many thanks for the picts. This is close from what I was thinking but a picture worth thousand words  [big grin]
This is how prototype II looks like. You can see the French cleat where the t-square is fixed with 2 screws. There is another French cleat behind the UDD at 30" apart.

[attachimg=1]

Have been using it for a few weeks and so far so good. The 36mm hose is pretty heavier then 27mm hose but the 1" EMT pipe is holding very good.

Only few minor changes will come into the final version. The 12awg cable will be shortened to get rid of that loop and a good attachment system like you just showed me  [big grin]

 

[Sparktrician]

[member=7493]Sparktrician[/member] Willy, can you get me a picture? I am a visual guy  [embarassed] and would like to see how you did it.

Thanks a bunch  [smile]

[member=66597]Mario Turcot[/member], my drawings (attached as a PDF file) are a bit cryptic and crude, so if you have questions, please PM me.  I seem to think I have better drawings around, so I'm going to keep looking. 

 

[Mario Turcot]

Thank you kindly Sir

 

[Mario Turcot]

From my notes on the computer:
If using the Imperial system, space cleats at 12", 30", 48", 66" and 84" AFF, measured to the bottom of the beveled surface on the stationary cleat.  The delta is 18".  Use a minimum of two cleats per cabinet so any cabinet is supported by no less than two cleats.  Base cabinets are supported by two+ cleats plus two Ikea Capita (http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60263574/) legs at the front for strength and to make under-cabinet cleaning easier.  Leg height is set to 115mm AFF (level floor).  Leg adjustment range is from 110mm (4-3/8") to 120mm (4-3/4") . 

Four standard cabinet heights (Imperial):
31-1/2", 2 cleats
49-1/2", 3 cleats
67-1/2", 4 cleats
85-1/2", 5 cleats

Point of bottom cleat bevel spaced 7-1/2" above cabinet bottom, then every 18". 

Taking new direction this weekend. I will modify the French cleat attachment as per  Willy and Richard suggestion. The only thing is the screw to keep it in place, I'd like to find a tool less way like a

Willy, I am on my way to Ikea to get those legs and will modify my Kapex stand using those. Thanks again for the tip.

 

[Sparktrician]

Willy, I am on my way to Ikea to get those legs and will modify my Kapex stand using those. Thanks again for the tip.

 

Most welcome.  Please don't hesitate to PM me if you have any questions.  [smile]

 

[Sparktrician]

[member=66597]Mario Turcot[/member], I've cleaned up the drawing and replaced the cruder ones in the original post.  Hope this clarifies that concept.  [smile]

 

[Mario Turcot]

Thanks Willy, I will keep that as my reference cheat sheet  [big grin]