Swirl-free finishes with Festool sanders

Thanks. Would you change your recommendation if you had an RTS-400. That is my final finish sander which is why I wasn't thinking about a 150/3. I apologize for not fully disclosing all the details.

I'm really interested in the science of stroke vs grit

Thanks again for your input
 
wow said:
jbasen said:
This is another way of asking is the RO-150 the correct sander to buy as a replacement for my ETS-150 or should I purchase an ETS-150/3 to complement my 150/5

Thanks

Neither? I went with and would suggest the combination of the RO150 and the ETS 150/3. The ETS 150/5 seems too similar in finish ability to the RO150, while the ETS 150/3 gives you all of the advantages of the ETS (size, weight, etc.) PLUS the performance of a 3mm orbit.

Of course, I didn't already own the ETS150/5 like you do, so that wasn't a consideration for me. I guess you could always sell your ETS150/5 and get an ETS150/3 to make the 'ultimate' combo...

I'm not sure I'd sell the ETS150/5. What are you trying to accomplish with the sanders. It seems there are better ways to smooth out a piece instead of using the RO150 to do that if you have the other tools. In my brief ownership of the ETS150/5 I have found that with rougher sandpaper you can do a lot of smoothing. If you are trying to level out an uneven joint, I would say the preferred way of doing that would be a jointer, planer, or hand plane, depending on how much work must be done. For the lesser smoothing, I would think the ET150 would do OK with coarser sandpaper. IT depends on what you want to do and your normal way of working. I"m sure you will get many differing opinions. Hope something in them helps you make a decision.
 
Thanks for the input.  As a hobbyist I build arts and crafts style furniture.  My furniture includes chased copper elements and inlays using stone, copper, etc.  After watching the video I was thinking the RO-150 would offer me more flexibility as it would do everything the ETS-150 would do along with offering the ability to polish when I'm working with stone and metal.

Thanks again for the input
 
I have had problems with swirl marks appearing on gloss water based urethane finish on sealed wood.    I've sanded off the finish and reapplied , only to have more swirl marks.  i've used the  ro 125 in rotex mode to remove the old finish,  starting at 120 grit, then switched to random orbit for fine finish after 150 grit, gone on to 400 grit.    The swirl marks are not visible until after the 3 top coats are applied,  then in sunshine at an angle.   
  I'm going to try the all rotex  finishing schedule recommended in the video.  Hope it works!!!  steve
 
I thought I heard him say a major reason for using the Rotex was speed - four times faster to achieve the same result.  I do a lot of end grain cutting boards and it's very slow going with the ETS.  The Rotex doesn't make quick work out of it but it helps a lot.  I had always heard the Rotex mode was for the lower grits to power through rough spots so to speak.  Guess I'll leave it in Rotex mode and see what happens.
 
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