Swordsaw

[Cruckman]

Hi new on here .  I have a few questions regarding Festool's swordsaw.

I am looking at getting the 200mm depth of cut machine for oak timber framing purposes , but I am wondering how well this machine will cope. I want to use it to rip cut oak slabs 6 inches thick or thicker ( currently use chainsaw) and also for  cross cutting end trimming .Does anybody have any experience  or comments regarding using this machine for this purpose.

Thank you

 

[Phil Beckley]

Hi new on here .  I have a few questions regarding Festool's swordsaw.

I am looking at getting the 200mm depth of cut machine for oak timber framing purposes , but I am wondering how well this machine will cope. I want to use it to rip cut oak slabs 6 inches thick or thicker ( currently use chainsaw) and also for  cross cutting end trimming .Does anybody have any experience  or comments regarding using this machine for this purpose.

Thank you

Hi
Welcome to the Owners group and hello to Poland [smile]
The SSU200EB Swordsaw will be perfect for this. It is supplied with the Universal chain so if you do a lot of rip cuts then the specific 'rip' chain will be required and you may also consider the parrallel side fence for ripping boards - it makes a big diffrence.
Chains are also available for Insulation materials and a specific chain for cross cuts. Simple and easy machine to use and one of my favourites - makes life easier.
https://www.festool.pl/Produkty/Pages/Product-Detail.aspx?pid=767995&name=Pilarka-mieczowa-UNIVERS-SSU-200-EB-Plus

rg
Phil

 

[Cruckman]

Hi Phil and thank you for your reply.

How do you sharpen your chains ? do you do them yourself with a chainsaw file ?

cheers

 

[Phil Beckley]

Hi Phil and thank you for your reply.

How do you sharpen your chains ? do you do them yourself with a chainsaw file ?

cheers

Hi
You have managed to travel from Poland to the U.K in the space of 10 minutes  [cool]
The chains last a crazy amount of time........until you hit some grit etc - same process as for convential chainsaw.
rg
Phil

 

[philphilop]

I borrowed one of these saws last year, compared to my mafell 400 guided chainsaw it looked cheap and i was convinced it would not cut the 800 year old beams we were modifying, ended up buying it, incredable power and ability, would thouroughly recommend

 

[Bohdan]

Can you get a TCT chain for this machine?

 

[Phil Beckley]

Can you get a TCT chain for this machine?

Hi
Festool do not produce one for the SSU200EB - only the 4 options available.
rg
Phil

 

[Phil Beckley]

I borrowed one of these saws last year, compared to my mafell 400 guided chainsaw it looked cheap and i was convinced it would not cut the 800 year old beams we were modifying, ended up buying it, incredable power and ability, would thouroughly recommend

I like this machine a lot makes life really easy for cutting large sections and also attach to the rail for crosscuts and then add the angle guide for repeat cuts on roofing.
rg
Phil

 

[toolfest.co.uk]

I used mine on some used 200 x 190mm section sleepers on Saturday, which I would not normally do, used sleepers can hide lots of nasties and can be extremely tough. However these are what my brother had purchased and he asked me to cut them, so we went for it.

It was a piece of cake, after quickly checking for any nails or bolts on the surface and the correct use of eye protection the cuts were done in no time at all. This machine never fails to impress me.

Warren

 

[Cruckman]

Thank you all for the replies, feedback  and info so far

 

[jmbfestool]

I have owned mine for a couple years now and I really like it it has come in really handy for large oak sections.

A lot of the oak I have cut with it have been over 200mm so kinda wish it was 300mm long.  You can buy a 300mm bar and chain but I was told its only for insulation because it doesn't have enough power to cut 300mm.    I recon it does because it cuts 200mm easily enough through cross grain or with the grain just make sure the chain is sharp.

I still might buy the 300mm bar because most the time the oak is just over by 200mm by 10-20mm it's not big deal finishing of with a hand saw for the last bit I suppose.  That's why I haven't really bothered getting the longer bar yet.

I mainly use it for curved work curving tie beams or gallow brackets etc.  it's good for doing that. Then I use router or spindle moulder to clean it up or belt sander.

  Only two negatives I have with the tool is I wish it had a bar which was a little longer 300mm as standard

And it angled both ways sometimes I could do with it being able to angle the other way.

Overall love the tool brilliant!
It won't disappoint

 

[Cruckman]

JmbFestool thanks ...thats what i want it for ...as you say 200mm oak is usually slightly oversize .Good news that you can buy a bigger bar and chain any idea on cost of these ? i don't really want to finish off with handsaw fed up with doing that...

Cheers

 

[Phil Beckley]

JmbFestool thanks ...thats what i want it for ...as you say 200mm oak is usually slightly oversize .Good news that you can buy a bigger bar and chain any idea on cost of these ? i don't really want to finish off with handsaw fed up with doing that...

Cheers

Hi
The 300 is just for insulation material and not available from the U.K
RG
Phil

 

[Cruckman]

Phil
does that mean that the chain supplied with the 300mm bar is not designed to cut wood ?..sorry for asking whats probably obvious

cheers

 

[Phil Beckley]

Phil
does that mean that the chain supplied with the 300mm bar is not designed to cut wood ?..sorry for asking whats probably obvious

cheers

Correct - just insulation
Phil

 

[Cruckman]

Its a shame festool didn't make the bar 215mm would allow a full 200mm cut plus a bit for us oak framing folk as generally mills supply 200mm slightly oversize ..Im thinking buy the 300mm bar and source a wood cutting chain and be disciplined and restrained enough to use it on nominal 200mm thick stuff...I wouldn't expect to rip cut  200mm with it any way but when cross cutting being left with 10mm or so of wood to finish off is a pain .plus you would need to support the waste because it would tear the grain out from the weight....

 

[jmbfestool]

Its a shame festool didn't make the bar 215mm would allow a full 200mm cut plus a bit for us oak framing folk as generally mills supply 200mm slightly oversize ..Im thinking buy the 300mm bar and source a wood cutting chain and be disciplined and restrained enough to use it on nominal 200mm thick stuff...I wouldn't expect to rip cut  200mm with it any way but when cross cutting being left with 10mm or so of wood to finish off is a pain .plus you would need to support the waste because it would tear the grain out from the weight....

It uses standard chains so it's easy to get a chain for it.

Most places makes chains to required length any way so only thing you need to source is a 300mm bar.

The festool swordsaw comes with Oregon chains which are easily to get.

I know it's not "safety" but first thing you will have to is remove the riving knife it's not needed you don't see hand chainsaw  with one so why does festool have one?

I have never had it bind on me and with the r img knife you won't be able to cut anything more than 200mm because the knife bends round under the bar.  Only benefit to the riving knife is that you can place the saw onto the floor with out damaging the chain but I just place it on timber.

First job I had when the riving knife got in my way was 300mm timber beam the client wanted me to cut it in half to fix to the wall.

So I cut down one side flipped it right over and cut it again, it was pretty easy because the previous cut guided me along so I just let the saw go were it wanted.  The cuts met up really well not like it mattered.

I would say festool would say don't remove the riving knife for safety.  It requires a plastic panel to be removed to get the second bolt to remove it

 

[jmbfestool]

Its a shame festool didn't make the bar 215mm would allow a full 200mm cut plus a bit for us oak framing folk as generally mills supply 200mm slightly oversize ..Im thinking buy the 300mm bar and source a wood cutting chain and be disciplined and restrained enough to use it on nominal 200mm thick stuff...I wouldn't expect to rip cut  200mm with it any way but when cross cutting being left with 10mm or so of wood to finish off is a pain .plus you would need to support the waste because it would tear the grain out from the weight....

It uses standard chains so it's easy to get a chain for it.

Most places makes chains to required length any way so only thing you need to source is a 300mm bar.

The festool swordsaw comes with Oregon chains which are easily to get.

I know it's not "safety" but first thing you will have to is remove the riving knife it's not needed you don't see hand chainsaw  with one so why does festool have one?

I have never had it bind on me and with the r img knife you won't be able to cut anything more than 200mm because the knife bends round under the bar.  Only benefit to the riving knife is that you can place the saw onto the floor with out damaging the chain but I just place it on timber.

First job I had when the riving knife got in my way was 300mm timber beam the client wanted me to cut it in half to fix to the wall.

So I cut down one side flipped it right over and cut it again, it was pretty easy because the previous cut guided me along so I just let the saw go were it wanted.  The cuts met up really well not like it mattered.

I would say festool would say don't remove the riving knife for safety.  It requires a plastic panel to be removed to get the second bolt to remove it

 

[Cruckman]

Found a 330 bar they cost around 70 quid sterling ....so with a suitable chain should be able to get a clean cross cut on a beam just over 200mm ...i wouldn't want to risk much more though as i am sure theres a good reason for limiting the wood cutting option to 200mm

 

[Phil Beckley]

I know it's not "safety" but first thing you will have to is remove the riving knife it's not needed you don't see hand chainsaw  with one so why does festool have one?

Only benefit to the riving knife is that you can place the saw onto the floor with out damaging the chain but I just place it on timber.

I would say festool would say don't remove the riving knife for safety.  It requires a plastic panel to be removed to get the second bolt to remove it
[/quote]

  You are correct JMB - Festool will say DO NOT REMOVE THE RIVING KNIFE.
The riving knife protects the thigh of the user from the chain while the chain travels around the sprocket. The riving knife has 3 main purposes for the SSU - Prevents the timber from binding on the sword, prevents inadvertant contact with the back of the chain......and keeps the chain from resting on the floor.
The chain travels at about 11m a second.........
rg
Phil