T-track question . . .

Thanks for this [member=53673]wimblejon[/member].

I have been thinking of making a Box Joint jig for the Table Saw, but was procrastinating on the best way to do the sled without a Mitre slot(s).  Like Woodwork Wizzard, I was unhappy at losing the cutting depth by having a sled base that sat on-top of the table, but your solution avoids that and would seem to give near equal rigidity. Very Nice.

Out of interest, what angle did you cut the runners on each side to fit in the Aluminium profile on the CMS table?

Thanks, Mark
 
Jon,

I gotta ask whether you're pulling my leg about that IBM moniker for old Blighty.  I think you may be joshing me there.

But I may have come up with another unworkable idea!

Depending on how accurate your dimensioning is, I think the stop's base may just fit in the slot of the 10 profile of an 8020 extrusion.

If not, it may take just a smidge of machining on either the stop or the extrusion to give the necessary clearance.

I'm sure one of the fellowship here can check that out in a jiffy.

Cheers,

Gary

 

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I'll let [member=53673]wimblejon[/member] respond, but I suspect he is referring to the recent "Brexit" vote and the signing of the Article 50 letter to leave the EU.  So I'm guessing it was a tongue in cheek reference to that as the UK will become Independent of the EU, but remain a British  Monarchy, hence IBM.  I could be wrong though!
 
Mark,
You were not wrong  [wink]

And Gary, thanks for your input, I think I'm probably erring towards the Mirock solution of making my own t-track. I've located some 20mm x 15mm rectangular ali tubing here (in the UK) and I may well employ my son who has one of these:https://www.tormach.com/product_pcnc_main.html
to assist with the milling. He's already turned one of my ordinary guide rails into an LR32 holey rail - it's 100% accurate!

I'll post here if/when I get that done.

Jon
 
A Tormach is super! With that kind of access I'm sure your project lost most be loong. Do share the results.
 
[member=62782]Mark Johnson[/member]

Box joint jig for CMS using a router and a 9mm bit. Other sizes would require another sled to be constructed though as this is for 9mm only. 

 

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Ohhhh very nice, now I want one even more and using a Router bit like a blade kerf - very cool  [laughing]
 
Mark,

It's really easy to build a box joint jig for the CMS, the only awkward part was getting the stop block for the finger joints in exactly the right place to make a good tight fitting joint.

 
That's a really simple solution.  I too have been debating how to cut box joints on the CMS with my router.  I had an Incra iBox unit but ended up giving it to my son for use on his tablesaw.  But your solution of using the two v-grooves is great.

As for adjustability for different widths of fingers, you might be able to cut a separate face to go against the crosscut face and glue the index pin in it.  Make it out of perhaps 1/4 masonite or 1/2 material with two adjustment slots in it that let it slide side to side on your permanent cross-cut face while tightening down two bolts to hold it in place.  That would let you easily swap out for different width fingers. 

What's not clear in your design is how you are cutting a finger wider than the saw blade.  Are you running a dado blade on the Festool saw?

Thanks for sharing!

 
Quote; What's not clear in your design is how you are cutting a finger wider than the saw blade.  Are you running a dado blade on the Festool saw?

It's a 9mm router bit. We can't have dado blades in the UK.
 
neilc said:
What's not clear in your design is how you are cutting a finger wider than the saw blade.  Are you running a dado blade on the Festool saw?

He mentions he's using a 9mm bit in the router table. It's not the saw module.
 
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