Table Saw Purchase

[Steve1]

I am just a hobby woodworker (possibly similar to you).    I got my table saw (Ridgid R4512) maybe 6 years ago, and find it very useful.  I made a bunch of cabinets recently and found it very useful.  If you want two sides of a cabinet same size, there is nothing better than setting the fence and running first one board, then the other through it.  Having a fence that is repeatably parallel to the saw blade is critical.    Table saw does take of a whole lota floorspace, that's for sure.  But retract the blade and it serves as a nice bench. 

 

[Alanbach]

[member=64644]WoodworkTech[/member] - So in my opinion the question around 1.75 vs. 3HP comes down to the work you do. The 1.75 will serve you well for 3/4” plywood and 3/4” hardwoods. The issues comes into play when you start to break down 1 1/2” - 2” hardwoods or thicker. So if you think that you will work 99.9% of the time with thicknesses under and inch you can go with the 1.75hp. Just know that if want to cut down some table legs (for example) out of some 10/4 maple your saw is going to struggle. You might still be able to do it (by slowing down your feed rate and installing a thin kerf rip blade) but you will definitely know that you are pushing your saw hard. The big reason that people pick the smaller motor is so they won’t have to rewire their shop for 220v. The 3hp will require a 220 circuit.

 

[jeh]

A table saw is the foundation of any shop. Don't second guess yourself...get the 3HP PCS and you will never second guess your purchase. As [member=66185]Alanbach[/member] posted I had a Unisaw for about 15 years before I bought the PCS. I was one of the very early PCS customers as I was offered to try it for free in exchange for feedback. I chose to keep the saw and paid a discounted rate to keep. Mine and others feedback lead to changes to the final production model and when the production model shipped I was shipped a kit with the parts necessary to make my saw like those being sold. They also sent a new blade with the kit. Some on FOG slander the founder of SawStop, but pay not attention to the noise. The saw is top notch and provides a level of safety that would never exist had SawStop not been formed. I never missed my Unisaw after I sold it.

You are on the right track about a track saw. They are great for some things, better for others and very convenient, but they cannot touch a table saw in terms of accuracy and repeatability unless you have extra time to futz with the rail to get it perfect. To be clear I have a track saw and use it very often, especially for breaking down sheet goods and making cabinets on-site. I also have a portable table saw I carry with me if repeatability and precision are needed. If you are eyeing up a portable table saw the Saw Stop is great, but if you are not willing to spend that much consider the DeWalt or Milwaukee with geared fences. I have the DeWalt and the fence is the differentiator between it and other portable table saws. The Milwaukee looks to be identical with the same fence.

 

[Alanbach]

[member=64644]WoodworkTech[/member] - one more thing! If you decide to move forward with a SS PCS and if you can afford it, you should definitely buy the better mobile base (industrial). It is fantastic and should make managing the saw in your smaller shop much easier. It is a big heavy saw but on that base I can move mine around easily with a couple of fingers. I know that between the 36” t glide, the industrial base and possibly the 3hp motor that we are taking about quite a bit more money but at that point you will have a saw that your grandchildren might still be using long after you are gone.

 

[mark60]

If my track saw broke today I'd order a new one today and the same with my Sawstop. I'm just a hobbyist but bought a 3HP PCS two years ago and it's a pleasure to use. I might have been able to sneak by with the smaller motor but knew the bigger motor would never be too big and the enclosed cabinet keeps things much cleaner. Keep in mind that the mobile base makes it tuck out of the way when not needed.

 

[peter halle]

Often here ther is the debate or question of can you do without a tablesaw if you have a track saw.

The real answer in my mind is that with all work there will be times when bringing a tool to the work is better and then when bringing work to the tool.

Are they grey areas? Sure.  But I would offer that if you have the space a tablesaw is a tool to have in your arsenal so to speak.

Peter

 

[DeformedTree]

Often here ther is the debate or question of can you do without a tablesaw if you have a track saw.

The real answer in my mind is that with all work there will be times when bringing a tool to the work is better and then when bringing work to the tool.

Are they grey areas? Sure.  But I would offer that if you have the space a tablesaw is a tool to have in your arsenal so to speak.

Peter

I think this gets into the question of if we officially got CMS TS inserts in North America how this discussion would change.  I have a table saw, a small one, it's not very good.  I intend to get a CMS for router,  thus getting TS module(s) makes sense. 

Having a track saw now, it's absolutely wonderful verses trying to move full sheets of plywood thru a saw by yourself, or even trying to use a straight edge and circular saw.  That said, clearly when things get skinny, a table saw is needed.  Like you say, if you have space, and say space for a big table saw and out feed tables, then great, but for those without permanent setups or a lot of space.  I think the likes of a CMS setup start to look very good.  For the couple skinny cuts, have the option with a bit of setup, away you go.  I think I will probably get a TS 75 and module,  give me the tool for thick stuff on rail and table saw as needed.  General track stuff use the TS 55.  This isn't exactly the cheapest path, but it does mean I don't have a table saw just taking up space most the time.

 

[DIY WoodWerx]

A lot of good insight from responses.  Appreciate it.  Anyone have experience  with the Contractor vs PCS sawstop and noise level differences?  Contractor much louder since motor is exposed?  Also, the sawstop slider a good option for future upgrade or having the table saw and MFT style bench eliminate the need for slider?

 

[Alanbach]

I can’t speak to the noise level difference but I can tell you that the dust collection on a PCS is much better than a Contractors. The slider is an intriguing option but it sure expands the footprint of the saw making it a no go for me. Since I already have a TS55 for breaking down large sheet goods I would probably invest in a Kapex or other good SCMS before I got the Sawstop slider. But yes, it is a great option!

 

[Paul G]

Since the laundry and gym are in the same space I would be far more concerned with dust control instead of noise. Ear protection is easy, cleaning up dust from everything is less so.

 

[ctvader]

The noise difference is minimal.  I used the PCS @ a woodcraft store (Woodworkers club) in CT and it’s very quiet.  When I purchased the contractor saw, I don’t recall the noise level being that much louder, if any.  Either saw is a great purchase.

 

[DIY WoodWerx]

Since the laundry and gym are in the same space I would be far more concerned with dust control instead of noise. Ear protection is easy, cleaning up dust from everything is less so.

Very true.  I have a Dewalt miter saw and even with a vac attached, dust get everywhere.  I stopped using it indoors.  I saw the Kapex this morning in a lumber store.  Looked very nice and the guy said the dust collection was the best in any miter saw he’s seen.

 

[DIY WoodWerx]

The noise difference is minimal.  I used the PCS @ a woodcraft store (Woodworkers club) in CT and it’s very quiet.  When I purchased the contractor saw, I don’t recall the noise level being that much louder, if any.  Either saw is a great purchase.

Your happy with the dust collection of the contractor saw?  I’m looking at the 36” of either model
To get the T-glide fence

 

[ctvader]

The dust collection is fine - I used a 4 inch adapter to connector to a shop vac.  I’m sure the over arm dust collection is great.  Any dust is swept and vacuumed up.  Do you have a woodcraft or similar near you where you can try both saws? 

 

[DIY WoodWerx]

The dust collection is fine - I used a 4 inch adapter to connector to a shop vac.  I’m sure the over arm dust collection is great.  Any dust is swept and vacuumed up.  Do you have a woodcraft or similar near you where you can try both saws?

No.  Unfortunately my nearest woodcraft is in Connecticut.  About 1 hour 30 min drive from Long Island, NY

 

[ctvader]

Is that the one in Norwalk, CT?  If ever near it, stop in.  John’s a great guy with a massive shop upstairs.  I’m about 25 miles north of there but use the shop when I need the jointer and planer. 

 

[DIY WoodWerx]

Is that the one in Norwalk, CT?  If ever near it, stop in.  John’s a great guy with a massive shop upstairs.  I’m about 25 miles north of there but use the shop when I need the jointer and planer.

That’s the one.  I’ve never been there but GPS shows it as the closest one to me.  There is a store by me where I get my Festool tools and they sell SawStop’s but have none out for display.  They only take orders for them.

 

[JimD]

I have a 14x24 foot shop, a DeWalt track saw and a SawStop PCS, 1.75hp.  I think having both the track saw and table saw are ideal for a small shop like mine.  The 1.75hp motor on the SawStop is big enough as long as you use a sharp, clean, ripping blade for deep rips.  I use my 50 tooth infinity all around blade for rips up through 5/4 oak.  If the wood pinches the blade on the offcut side the motor struggles but otherwise it works fine.  Deeper rips I will use my infinity 24 tooth ripping blade.  Both blades are full kerf (1/8 inch).  I might try thinner kerf blades if the saw continues to struggle sometime but switching to the ripping blade should resolve it.  And it usually doesn't happen in 5/4. 

I used to use a Ryobi BT3100 which has a 15amp universal motor.  Due to motor efficiencies I think it is less powerfull than the 1.75hp SawStop.  But I've ripped hardwood (oak, cherry, and maple) over 3 inches deep with it.  I had to go slow sometimes but it did an accurate job.  I expect the same with the SawStop.  I really think the only limitation of the smaller motors is the need to switch to a ripping blade for deep rips. 

I've also cut 8/4 oak with my DeWalt track saw.  It didn't always like it so I got a ripping blade for it too.  It's motor is only a 13A universal motor. 

I use a Ron Paulk inspired 3 foot by 7 foot outfeed table/tracksaw cutting station/assembly table.  The top is bored with 20mm holes and I use Festool clamps in it sometimes. 

 

[TheSergeant]

Forget the MFT3, it's not worth it at just about any price, let alone $720.  I've had 3 of them, modified to varying degrees but ultimately was never satisfied.  A Sawstop is 100% the way to go. 

I'm in a similar situation in that we have a gym in our garage along with my shop.  Dust collection is super important for me and it starts at the tool.  Pick up the PCS and get the overarm dust collection guard to go with it.  The dust collection on the Sawstop with the guard is way better than the Festool Track Saw.  I actually ended up selling my Festool and getting the Makita Cordless track saw.  I break down my sheet goods to a manageable size outside and then bring everything in and do the finish work on the table saw. 

I currently have a Laguna table saw with a custom riving knife to fit the Sawstop dust collector guard.  I'm picking up a Sawstop ICS 3hp on Tuesday and am beyond excited about it. 

 

[DIY WoodWerx]

Forget the MFT3, it's not worth it at just about any price, let alone $720.  I've had 3 of them, modified to varying degrees but ultimately was never satisfied.  A Sawstop is 100% the way to go. 

I'm in a similar situation in that we have a gym in our garage along with my shop.  Dust collection is super important for me and it starts at the tool.  Pick up the PCS and get the overarm dust collection guard to go with it.  The dust collection on the Sawstop with the guard is way better than the Festool Track Saw.  I actually ended up selling my Festool and getting the Makita Cordless track saw.  I break down my sheet goods to a manageable size outside and then bring everything in and do the finish work on the table saw. 

I currently have a Laguna table saw with a custom riving knife to fit the Sawstop dust collector guard.  I'm picking up a Sawstop ICS 3hp on Tuesday and am beyond excited about it.

Which over arm dust collection do you recommend?  I see on for $199 and the floating one for $399.  From my readings, with the floating one, you can run dados with dust collection but cannot add a router table in the right wing of you want to later.